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ESTABLISHED 1869. INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS, PACE 94.
.35th Year. NEW YORK AND CHICAGO, WEDNESDAY, FEB. 4, 190.3. Vol. XLVI. No. 1.
THE MORGAN COLLECTION OE ANTIQUE SILVER MASTERRIECES.
The most attrac- tive feature of the Silversmith s’ Plate Exhibition, re- cently held at St. James’s Court, London, was, doubt- less, the matchless collection of works of art of old-time silver- smiths, belonging to J. Pierpont Morgan. The collection con- sists of 72 pieces, and was recently pur- chased by Mr. Mor- gan from Herr Gut- mann, of Berlin.
One of the remark- able pieces of the col- lection is the cup, in the form of a large barrel, of parcel gilt, illustrated on this page. A Bacchus sits astride the barrel, holding aloft a gob- let. Beautiful creep- ing vines embellish the barrel, which is resting on four ram- pant lions. An en- ameled coat of arms, manifestly that of the family for whom this piece was originally made, is seen on the front above the spigot which is surmounted by a mermaid. This piece is said to be one of the most valu- able of the articles exhibited.
Probably the most magnificent and in- teresting object of this remarkable col- lection is the group showing Diana seated on a stag. In this, three hounds stand beneath the animal.
whose fore feet are uplifted. This beauti- ful example of the German silversmith’s art is but 15 inches high, but is remarkably perfect in every de- tail. Diana is grace- fully mounted on the stag, and carries on her forehead a cres- cent set with a large ruby and five dia- monds. The figure is embossed, and the hair and clothing are gilt. The body of the stag forms a flask, and. for this reason, the head is remov- able. One of the hounds is gilt finish, and the other in silver.
The group is pro- vided with a clock- work. which enables it to move around the table. It was made by a famous silver- smith in Augsburg, in the 16th century, and there are said to be only five similar ex- amples of such work, viz. : one in the treas- ury of the Kingdom of Bavaria, another in the Baron Roths- child collection, one each at Gotha and at Stockholm, and a fifth in the Berlin Museum of Arts and Industries.
Other perfect ex- amples of the silver- smith’s art during the 16th century are the statuette of a cavalier on horseback, and a nautilus mounted in the form (Continued on page 18.)
CUP IX FOR.M OF GREAT TUX, WItH BACCHUS ASTRIDE.
o
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
WHEN VISITING THE CITY
,'Y4 Maiden Lgme,
or
41 Union Sc|uare,
cincl look over our line of new goods. Mew shopes and designs in Decanters, X'ases, Colognes, riasks. Jugs, etc., in Alvin Silver Deposit W'are.
Bon Bon Dishes, Berry Bowls, Bread Trays, W'ater Pitchers, and rancy Goods in hollow ware.
The decoration and engrav- ing is Drought out iHost Deauti- fully. Articles of this character give tone to the Jeweler’s entire stock. I here is a iJchness and Drilliancy aDout the Alvin W'are that inakes it conspicuous.
There is nothing iHore suitaDle for presents.
Alvin naiuitacturiiig Company,
54 MAIDEN LANE, 41 UNION SQUARE,
NEW YOEK.
W'e would De pleased to have you call at either of our show rooms
J\ Simple Business Proposition.
You can sell FAHYS Gold Filled Cases for as much money as you can any case in the mar- ket. You can buy them for much less than you can any other high grade case.
It will pay you to investigate if you want to add to your profits, and at the same time add to your reputation.
Any Jeweler in the United States who has not received our new price list on FAHYS Cases — issued February 2, 1903 — will oblige us by notifying us at once.
JOSEPH FJiHYS Sh CO., Fahys Baildingf Xew York,
4
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
CuCsHows top of diamond with prop- erly laid facets.
Cvit shows bottom of diamond with properly laid facets.
Cut shows side of diamond with prop- erly laid facets and properly shaped diamond.
DIAMOND
CVTTING
Brilliancy, brigKtness o r snappiness depends on tKe cutting of tKe diamond.
It is ligKt entering from all sides of tKe stone; tKe facets de- flect it, and it passes out tKe top of tKe stone.
If tKe facets are not properly laid, and tKe stone not tKe cor- rect tKicKness (in relation to tKe spread) tKe rays of li^Kt do not concentrate and leave tKe top of tKe stone at tKe same angle, and tKe diamond is not as brigKt as it sKould be.
For fuller particulars re- garding correct cutting and dimensions of diamonds see our leaflet dated Feb., 1903, wKicK we Kave mailed. If one Kas not reacKed you, send us word.
J. R. WOOD ® SONS,
2 MAIDEN LANE, N. Y.
Diamond Cutters, MaKers of Plain Solid Gold Rings, Ungraved and Stone Ring's, Mounting's.
February 4, 1903.
fHE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY,
o
We are aiming at you to get you to use our Wedding Rings.
We are using the best material and work- Our Rings have been under fire for
men.
over 50 years and other manufacturers only aim to equal them, while our prices are the lowest possible.
J. R. WOOD & SONS,
RING MAKERS,
2 MAIDEN LANE, NEWlVORK.
I'. IV4 C- . A', y.
6
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, l‘Ju3.
Insist on getting the
ILLUSTRATION
SHOWS
stamp when buying
CHATELAINE OR W RIST BAGS, BRACELETS and SOLID GOLD NhCK, LOCKET and GUARD CHAINS and Patent HAT PINS
OUR 1903 BRACELET
A beautiful pr«' duction of the New Year.
PLAINVILLE,
LONDON OFFICE: 59 Chancery Lane
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
|19Q3^
mm
Rf
mm
YOU
CAN SECURE THAT CLASS PIN ORDER BY SHOWING
OUR DESIGNS AND SAMPLES.
WE ARE HEADQUARTERS. WRITE TO EITHER FACTORY.
WENDELL & COMPANY,
93, 95 AND 97 WILLIAM ST., NEW YORK.
57 WASHINGTON ST., CHICAGO.
8
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR— WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903-
WRITE roi^ CATALOGUE.
V AS C5.
OUR COnPLETE LINE or VASES WILL SOON BE READY, RANGING IN PRICE EROn $2.00 TO $60,00.
No. 4. HEIGH T 12 INCHES.
Woodside Sterling Co.,
192 Broadway, New Yort^.
EACTORY, NEWARK, N. J.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
9
DIRECTORS.
C. G. Alford.
Milton P. Bagc.
W. F. Carlton.
Bird S. Coler.
George E. Fahys. Edwin S. Hooley.
W. M. K. Olcott. August Oppenheimer. A. K. Sloan.
Leopold Stern.
Alvin L. Strasburger. David C. Townsend. Louis Windmuller.
MAURICE MAAS, Manager.
Maiden Lane Safe Deposit Co.
170 BROADWAY,
NEW YORK CITY.
OFFICERS.
Bird S. Coler,
President.
Edwin S. Hooley, Vice-President August Oppenheimer,
2d Vice-President.
C. G. Alford,
3rd Vice-President. Maurice Maas,
Secretary and Treasurer. Nathan Bijur,
Counsel.
OUR SAFE DEPOSIT VAULTS ARE OPEN FROM 9 O'CLOCK, A. M., UNTIL 6 O'CLOCK, P. M. IF TIME MEANS MONEY TO YOU, don't wait for expiration of your contract with the other safe deposit company, but contract for safe in our vaults at once.
MAURICE MAAS, Manager.
Oppenheimer Bros. &, Veith,
Cutters and Importers of Diamonds, Pearls and Precious Stones,
COR. NASSAU AND JOHN STS., NEW YORK.
AnSTCRDTtn, 2 Tulp Straat.
LONDON,
45 Holborn Viaduct.
CUTTING WORKS,
Cor. Union & Nevins Sts., BrooWgn.
10
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
Which are
The Cheapest Watch Glasses
those that are sold for the least, or those which are carefully made, properly labeled, correctly gaged, and cost a trifle more ?
A label like the above is sufficient guarantee that you are getting the best that money can buy or that the properly made stock, combined with skilled labor, can produce.
The Best Watch Glasses
are those which require the least time to fit and in which there percentage of breakage.
XKey bear tbis label;
Reverse.
is the least
Insist
upon getting
the V. T. r. and take
no other, and see that each
Geneva Glass is wrapped separately in tissue paper.
FOR SALE BY ALL REPUTABLE JOBBERS.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
11
Our Motto : INDIVIDUAL FREEDOM IN BUSINESS.
Our Silver Opiated ^ilJare is ^^eautiful (znd^?7^odern in ^esi£fn
and of Superior ^inishf and we Guarantee all Soods of Our 7/fanufacture lo Strip as 9?fuch Silver as anp Siopers S3rand on the 7/far/cet.
No. 173. PURITAN SOUP SET.
We believe in fair and liberal treatment of customers, honest goods at living prices, and will give personal guarantee with all goods sold, hfo connection with any other Rogers Company.
Send for Catalogue No. 4, fust out.
Simeon L. and George H. Rogers Company
MANUFACTURERS OF HIGH GRADE SILVER PLATED WARE,
P. O. BOX 1205. HARTFORD, CONN.
FACTORIES, HARTFORD AND WALLINOFORD, CONN.
12
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR— WEEKLY.
February 4, 19o;5-
IT IS A BYWORD THE COUNTRY OVER, "IF YOU CANNOT GET IT ANYWHERE ELSE. SEND TO KELLER FOR IT.
®«r J[i|tirth
|lnnic(|rsant
1 ?
190J
GREETING to OUT many friends in the trade throughout the United States. Y e feel that we would like to take each of you by the hand and thank you personally for your confidence and loyal patronage throughout our 50 years in the ^I.aterial Business. This being im- possible, we take this opportunity to do so through the columns of The Circular-Y'eekly. We want to express to you our appreciation and to assure you that in the future as in the past we shall alzvays try our best to please you and to merit a continuance of your patronage. We give below a few reasons whv we should have \our Material Business.
FIFTY YEARS IX BUSINESS .MEANS SOMETHING.
Constant healthy growth has placed us in the front rank in volume of business in our line. Being direct importers as well as manufacturers we possess advantages which in turn we give to our customers.
The complete stock, which we have always on hand, is one of the fundamental necessities for the avoidance of substitution and for dispatch in filling orders.
Experienced hands are essential to a well-equipped department. W'e take pains to get and keep them.
Keeping up stock, filling orders correctly and quickly, are points which we have carefully U'atched and which have in a great measure contributed to the success of this department.
Our prices, quality being taken into consideration, are the lowest obtainable.
OUR MOTTO IS TO PLEASE OUR CUSTOMERS.
\Ve call vour particular attention to some of our specialties :
.AMERICAN .\ND SWISS ^I.AINSPRINGS, for which we have been the sole agents for the past oO years. JURGENSEN RECOILING M.AINSPRINGS, for High-Grade .American and Swiss watches, for which we are the Sole Agents.
JURGENSEN PINIONS in all numbers and sizes.
LUTZ H.ARDENED H.AIRSPRINGS, numbered separately, in all sizes.
L. H. K. & CO. PINE TEMPERED H.AIRSPRINGS, numbered separately, in all sizes.
FINE RUBY .AND S.APPHIRE OLI\'E HOLE JEW'ELS, ass't separate sizes and diameters. ALSO CENTER JEWELS IN RUBY .AND S.APPHIRE for all makes of American and Swiss watches.
FINE SWISS HANDS FOR HIGH-GRADE W.ATCHES.
RED AND BLUE L.ABEL L.ATOIX GENEVA .AND B.ASSINE WATCH GLASSES.
We voluntarily give our customers the benefit of any reduction in price without notice.
We thank our patrons for the confidence so generously manifested by them in the past and solicit their further commands as well as those of new friends.
e-q- NASSAU SXREIEIT, INJ El W VORK.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
13
' k
me Jire Ready for m
that we have recovered from oor recent
Keady, now
fire, to take care of yoor orders and fill them with our usual precision and promptness. Our new springs gfoods and full line of regular goods are now displayed in our *
new Vork $bow Room,
204 Church Street, corner Thomas. It is the largest and handsomest line we have e\er shown.
Have you our Supplement No. J8?
$. Sfcrnau $ Co.,
^manufacturers of everything in metal mares,
204 Church St„ cor. Thomas, NEW YORK.
Factory: BROOKLYN, N. Y.
No 1122
,rtiinTTiiii/;i( [
METAL
WARES
HEW YORK
ZD4 CHURCH 5T.
14
February 4. 1903-
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCL’LAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR— WEEKLY.
15
PEARLS
AND RARE GEMS
IN DIAMONDS, EMERALDS, RUBIES, ETC
ALFRED H. SMITH & CO.,
CHICAGO, 103 State Street.
IMPORTERS,
182 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.
LONDON,
6 Holborn Viaduct
16
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY. February 4, 1903.
is
FOSTER’S STRONG LINKS.
LINK No. II.— Finish.
In many years of manufacturing vest chains we have learned one thing well. That one thing is how to obtain the maximum of finish with the minimum of loss of gold.
Our 1-20 chain starts 1-20 and ends 1-20. Our i-io chain starts i-io and ends i-io. The exact proportions are maintained throughout.
No loss of gold is suffered in the process of manufacture or finishing, and upon the last link of every i-io chain we stamp it i-io, and we mean just that. Every i-io gold chain is soldered with gold solder.
You can place these chains before your custom- ers with absolute confidence. They will bring you satisfaction and other orders. Send for our catalogue.
Theodore W. Foster ® Bro. Co.,
PROVIDENCE, R. I.
its MUm^cst Linl6
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
17
Gold and Silver Plating in Rouen, France.
The method employed for a;old plating in Rouen, France, is a y old one and differs so greatly from the electro-chem- ical process employed in the United States that it may be interesting to mention it. The piece to be plated is cleaned thoroughly, heated red-hot, plunged into a weak so- lution of sulphuric acid, and then dried with bran or sawdust. It is then saturated with a thin solution of mercury, after which is ap- plied by the aid of a brush, a certain quan- tity of pulverized gold amalgam. The mer- cury completely volatilizes immediately after the piece is heated, leaving only the! dun-colored coat of gold upon the surface. This coat is given a pure gold color by cleaning, rubbing and heating, and after- wards covering with a paste of salt, niter and alum, then placed in boiling water and wiped thoroughly.
What little silver plating is done in Rouen is called argenture au pouce — (silvering by friction). It is effected by means of rub-, bing the object to be plated with chloride of silver recently precipitated and moistened with a little salt water. The silver pene- trates into the brass or copper and forms a thick plate on the surface, which is made still more adhesive by thoroughly burnish- ing. It is said by Rouen silversmiths that one advantage of this method is that when any part of the piece wears or becomes dis- colored it can be easily replated without the necessity of replating the whole piece.
Large pieces are sometimes plated by means of silver leaves applied to the metal after it is thoroughly cleaned. These leaves are made to adhere by heat and pressure with a steel polisher. From 30 to 60 leaves are used, according to the durability one wishes to give.
Native Silver Workers of Madagascar Show Cleverness in Imitating.
According to recent reports received at Washington, in reference to the manufacture of silver in Madagascar, what the consuls have to relate savors more of historical interest than of commercial value. The Hova people of the interior, who are adept imitators, show great skill in the manufacture of gold and silver articles; but their attention has only been turned to the making of silver chains, rings, ornamental mountings to their snuff boxes and other trinkets of personal adornment, which are circulated among themselves and bought up as curiosities in small quantities by foreign- ers; but their art has never been turned to commercial purposes of any extent, and is virtually confined to Antananarivo.
It might be mentioned, as an example of barbaric splendor, that one of the late Hova kings had a four-post bedstead made entirely of Mexican silver dollars. The Hovas, too, quickly learned from books the many different processes of silver plating, but, strange to say, the art was never learned and practised, but with one object — namely, to issue false coin ; and such is their skill in this business that even under the eyes of the French administration they succeed so well that the official journal is constantly publishing notices, putting the public on guard against spurious dollars in circulation.
1903
Greeting and Congratulation.
Under present conditions it is indeed a two-fold pleasure to extend our felicitations to the trade. Never have we emerged from a year of greater achievement, nor entered upon one of greater promise.
The past is gone forever and is useful only in its lessons, not the least of which is the growing importance of dealing with a firm of known and proven worth. Our patronage, always impressive, no less in character than in extent, is the direct result of liberal treatment.
We don’t believe in loose business principles — but as has been our wont, we will cling to a broad and mag- nanimous system of treatment rather than to the rigid letter of the law.
This is the surest road to the confidence of the retailer, and with our resolution, energy and experience, it is easy to travel. We are again first in the field with what is best in WATCHES and DIAMONDS.
Our facilities are copious and our staff eager to serve and efficient to perform.
r>cadquai»tcr9 for
Waltham, Clgin, New 6tigland and Clnited States QIatebes. Diamonds, mounted and unmounted, in medium and high grades.
18
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
300,000
The Morgan Collection of Antique Silver Masterpieces.
(Continued from page 1.) of a snail, and driven by a negro, holding a bow, in black and colored enamel. The shell is of a handsome lustrous white, and while the whole piece is but seven and three-quarter inches in height, its value is very great.
All the remaining G8 pieces of the col-
Larter Studs made and sold, the record for 1902. Popular approval is the true test of merit, so this great quantity is an indication of the esteem in which the Larter Stud is held.
A round half million is the goal for 1903.
We need your stud business, and in order to secure it we offer a better article than can be purchased elsewhere.
The Larter Stud is warranted to give unqual- ified satisfaction; there is no time limit to this guarantee ; our trade-mark is stamped on each stud to attest our faith in the stud, and we purpose to stay in business long enough to make the guarantee good, should you ever have occasion to take advantage of it.
Larter, Eleox & Go.
21-23 Maiden Lane,
New York, N. Y.
300,000
GROUP DI.VN.V AND STAG.
lection are incomparable masterpieces. There are no less than 40 cups. Among them are : An odd wager cup, in silver gilt, in the shape of a woman, with large ruff and voluminous skirts, richly em- bossed ; a plain cylindrical gilt tankard, sheathed in filigree silver, arranged around Cupids’ heads in relief ; a cup, representing a dancing bear, 10 inches high; several
SNAIL AND SHELL. IN BLACK .AND COLORED ENAMEL.
cups, made of ostrich eggs, overlaid with delicate tracery of silver filigree, and mounted on animal figures, in silver gilt; a magnificent tankard of parcel gilt, carry- ing upon its sides the representation of one of the Auctories of Alexander the Great, the work of the famous Nuremberg silversmith, Hans Keller, who lived in the
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
19
17th Century; a carved ivory tankard, repre- senting Esther before Ahasuerus ; a conch shell, mounted as a cup, surmounted by the miniature figure of a Roman warrior, a shell cup, shaped like a sea monster, gilt embossed — a product of the 17th century.
The last named cup may be briefly de- scribed as follows: On the flat of the
sloping cover of the cup is a sea monster escaping from the basket. The handle is in scroll work and high, resembling that of a Roman urn, and terminates in a merman, partly hidden from view by seaweeds. A
C.\V.\L1ER ON HORSEB.VCK.
■fisher-boy forms the stem, and the high base is embossed with dolphins.
-\nother piece that attracted universal at- tention is a handsome triptych, the work of the silversmith Wallbaum, and dating from 1598. The painting, remarkable for per- fection of detail, richness of color and minute, delicate execution, was performed by .\nton Mozart.
The entire collection of Germanic art is indescribably handsome, and it is difficult to say which piece may be called the gem or deserves the palm. Its value cannot be definitely estimated — it is worth hun- dreds of thousands of dollars.
CHESTER BIELINGS
1840 & SON 1903
SUCCESSORS TO RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS
New York
58 ’
Nassau St.
29
Maiden
Lane
IMPORTERS OF
DIAMONDS
Other Precious Stones, ^ Pearls
Diamond Jewelry
London
E. C.
22
Holbom
Viaduct
1840
1 866
1880
Randel & Baremore Randel, Baremore & Co. Randel, Baremore & Billings
E3TABU5HBD 1841.
Carter, Howe & Co.
MANUFACTURERS OP
Gold Jewelry,
9, 11, 13 MAIDEN LANE, - NEW YORK.
FACTORY, NEWARK, N. J.
The clock in the tower of the New York City Hall stopped recently for the first time in many years. The plate glass dial of the western face was blown off by the wind, which caused the clogging of the hands and machinery of the timepiece. The other three faces continued doing business after the debris had been removed. It was thought that the primary cause of the breaking of the glass was its weakened condition, resulting from shots fired through it some months ago, apparently from one of the upper win- dows of the Postal Telegraph building. At the time this was done there was consid- erable comment in the newspapers over the affair, but the person or persons who had fired the shots has never been discovered. The glass was not repaired, and in its weakened condition could not withstand the bigh winds of last month.
A. CARTER.
G. R. HOWE.
W. T. CARTER. W. T. GOUGH.
Established 1S37.
GEO. O. STREET Ca SONS,
Signet Rings.
24 JOHN STREET, NEW YORK.
Trade
Mark.
108 STATE STRBBT, CHICAGO.
20
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 19(.V4.
Diamonds and Diamond Mines of India.
ONE of the most promi- nent features of the recent evolution of South Africa has been, undoubt- edly, the discovery of its mineral treasures, and, from time to time, we have been interested by statistics and romances connected with the precious metals and stones which have been unearthed. The diamonds of Kimberley and the sensational incidents connected with their trading have made them so well known, that probably the public can scarcely believe that India is, after all, the real home of almost all historical diamonds of value.
In the records of the East India Co., as far back as the ITth century, there are refer- ences to the industry of diamond finding, and the profitable nature of the occupa- tion as carried out across the Deccan coun- try in the valleys of the Kistna, Penner and Godavari rivers, while celebrated work- ings were carried on in Central India and in the Sone basin.
The earliest mention of the subject is by a Dutchman, \’an Linschoten, whose writ- ings, bearing date of 1596, have been rescued from oblivion by the Hakluyt Society. From him we learn that all large diamonds belonged to the king, smaller ones to the finder, subject to a royalty on their value, and each miner had to pay a license. To quote his own words, “They grow in the countrie of Decane, behinde Ballagate, by the town of Bisnager, wherein are two or three hills, from whence they are digged,
whereof the King Bisnager doth reape great profitte ; for he causeth them to be straightly watched, and hath farmed them out with this condition, that all diamonds that are above 25 mangelyns in waight are
By GEORGE CECIL.
for the King himself, every, and if anie man bee found that hideth anie such, he looseth both life and goodes.’’ This King- dom of Bisnager is that known as \'ijayan- agar, which had its capital at the celebrated Hampi. in Bellary District, and extended over Southern India. It was finally over- thrown by the klohammedan Powers in A. D. 1565, after the battle of Telikota.
The next account is by Tavernier, who published in 1669, a full account of Indian diamonds, and special^’ mentioned the Kol- lur workings, which were in the territory of Golconda, and it is believed that their yield were classed as Golconda stones. Mr. Streynsham Master, the Governor of Madras, visited these mines in 1679, and referred to them in the quaint English of his days, as follows :
About four a’clock we went to the mines upon
a Hill to see them digg and looke for Dymonds, which is done after this manner, the ground is loose of a Red fat sand and gravell, great and small Black Red and White stones, one or two of the miners loosen the earth with an Iron grow and others with Iron spades, heave it up to a heap, from whence others with Basketts wind the small
dust from it with the \\’ind. thence is carryed to a troff made up of stones and earth filled with water which is brought thither above a mile upon men’s heads, where all the gross earth is washed away from the gravell, for the earth melts like sugar and runs out of a hole with the water, soe the gravell all remaines that they carry thence and spreade upon a smooth plaine place prepared for the purpose where the same men (that digg dust and wash the earth) sett all the heat of the day in a ranke one by another with their faces towards
the Sun looking for the Dymonds and the man that imploys them sett over against them to see that what they find they deliver to him, and in this manner they find the Dymonds in the same fashion and shape as they are sold rough.
The writer has had occasion to travel over an area of disused mines, which were simple pits, from 10 to 15 feet in depth, and with a surface diameter of, perhaps, 20 feet, and so close to each other that it was difficult to ride a horse between them, while they formed an almost contin- uous narrow belt, more than five miles in length. Yet the people in the neighbor- ing villages can tell nothing of their old working, and the record of government only enables us to dimly perceive the prob- able cause of their abandonment.
It is known that the Deccan country, from which the gems were extracted, was usually distracted by war until the advent of the British power caused an all-per- vading peace, and it would appear that with that peace also came the practical cessation of diamond mining. It is, however, prob- able that the trade was already stifled by the Brazilian finds, which dated from about 1727, and also by the imposition taxes by the native rulers; so the British found the trade practically abandoned, and it has never since been resuscitated on any large scale.
This general cessation of diamond mining is not satisfactorily accounted for, and it is considered by scientists that there is no proof of the exhaustion of the mines which were purely superficial, and it is hard to suppose that the country contains no more such glorious gems as they yielded to un- sustained effort during a comparatively short period of the world’s history.
First and foremost among them is the Kohinur, or Mountain of Light, which tradition tells us was unearthed in 1550 at Golconda, but as this was the capital of the kingdom containing most of the Deccan
THE AUTHOR.
GENER.VL VIEW OF THE DIAMOND MINE, WAJRA K.VRUR.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
21
rupees. Afterwards, when polished and cut, it was reduced in weight to carats,
but had an unsurpassed luster, and was valued at £15,000. Even recently, a stone of 08 carats, valued at 30,000 rupees, has been found, as well as other small ones.
There is no lack of traditions of other, and even larger stones, than the well known ones already mentioned. One is known to be in a Hindoo temple, not far from Bel- lary itself, while another is kept in a family and worshipped as a household god. This latter stone is declared to be as large, if not larger, than the Kohinur, which in shape it is said to resemble, so far bear- ing out the tradition that the Kohinur came from the Bellary District. Not long ago a diamond was taken out of the wall of a poor man’s house, where it had got mi.xed with the mortar. It seems only reasonable to suppose that a land that has yielded such stones, unsurpassed for luster and brilliancy, contains a goodly number more waiting for man’s energy and skill to bring them to light.
There need be no fear that the diamond fields of Southern India have been denuded of their treasures, nor is it to be sup- posed that South Africa has the monopoly of the supply. But it has been the policy of the Government of India to ofTer no in-
GEXEK.VL VIEW OF THE DI.\
a common stone was the suspicion aroused that ultimately led to the discovery that the child’s plaything was a real diamond. The story goes — and we give it for what it is worth — that no sooner was it known to be of value than immense excitement reigned, and much blood was shed to secure its possession ; so much so, that the Govern- ment had to interfere, and it thus came into the Nizam's possession. That is, he got a portion only, a small piece being chipped off in the struggle, and this piece, after pass- ing through many hands is said to have been purchased by a native banker for 70,00h rupees. Subsequent trace of it has been lost.
The portion in the Nizam’s possession is still in the rough state, and is 2.48 inches long, 1.35 inches greatest breadth, with an average thickness of .92 inch. Its actual weight is computed to be 277 carats. It i> estimated that the Hyderabad diamond, were it cut, would probably weigh 138^2 carats, a weight between that of the Pitt, or Re- gent diamond, which weighs 136% carats, and that of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, weighing 139 carats. Assuming that one- eighth of what it would be when polished was taken off, with the splinter sold to the native banker, he would then have 155’ •; carats as the possible weight, had the whole stone been, cut and polished. It would then be placed between the Tuscan and the great Orloff diamond, of 194% carats. The Hy- derabad gem was sent to Calcutta some years ago to be cut and polished, but the price asked for doing so was so exorbitant that the then Nizam ordered it to be sent back, and no attempt has since been made to beautify it. It is not known for certain whether this diamond is one of pure water, but from the fact that the piece chipped off sold, according to reports, for 70,000 rupees, it may be assumed that it is one of some purity.
Though the finding of diamonds in India
I.VTERIOR VIEW OF THE DI.VMOXD MIXE. W.\JR.\ K.\RUR.
recently commenced working at Wajra Karur, in the Anantapur District (which was apportioned from the Bellary District ) in such a formation. The surface finds at this spot include a very celebrated gem, known as the Gordon Orr, which, when found, in 1883. weighed 62 carats, and changed hand.« at 5.0()ft rupees and 15.000
pendency. In the past year restrictions on mining and prospecting have been relaxed, and a fair field is being opened up for the safe investment of capital in such opera- tions, and of these it can be predicted that the reopening of the southern diamond fields will prove to be one of the least venturesome.
mines, ttte stone probably came from Kol- lur, in the Kistna, or from Ramalkot, in Kurnool. This gem now gracing the Im- perial Crown, weighs, in its cut and pol- ished state. lt»6 1-16 carats. It came to the British nation with the Punjab, in 1849, having formerly ornamented the Peacock Throne of the Emperors of Delhi.
One of the largest diamonds in the world is in the possession of His Highness the Nizam of Hyderabad. It was first seen some 50 years ago, in the hands of a native child, who played with it in utter ignorance of its value, and not until eight annas was offered for what was considered
.MOXD MIXE, W.\JR.\ K.\RUR.
however, stones have come to light from a rocky sub-stratum, which is identified as closely resembling, if not identical with, the celebrated peridotite of the Kimberley mines, and in that case India has at length produced diamonds in their natural matrix. The accompanying illustrations are of a
ducement to the speculative capitalist to come to India, and, in fact, it has done much to keep such away from her shores. It has been reserved for the native Govern- ments of Mysore and Hyderabad to in- augurate a successful policy in mining matters, and it is now dawning on the supreme authorities in India that it is part of their duty to develop the mineral, as well as all other products of the great De-
as a regular trade has long since dis- appeared, geiiTs are still found and come to the diamond market, though not in quantity. The diamonds yielded by India in the past are believed to have been all found in al- luvial deposits of sand and clay, in fer- rugineous shales, in conglomerates, and throughout the Bellary, Kurnool and Anan- tapur Districts. In the portion of Kurnool, included in the estate of Banganapalle, stones of small size are constantly sold by poor cultivators to recognized diamond pur- chasers, but there is no regular search in- stituted, so that even in a country rich in stones ih.c finds would be poor. Of late.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS' CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
Tortoise Shell Ornaments of Mindanao.
OL R correspondent has been living ^ among the Moros of ^lindanao Island of the Philippine group for the past few years, and perhaps can give your readers a little interesting account of the wonderful ornaments employed by these people. The Moros, as is known, are very different in their habits from the tribes of the ether isl-
ands in this portion of the Pacific. The leading Sultans of the race are great lovers of trinkets and they have their ears and fin- gers covered with jewels. Then there are the Dattos, who come next in rank, and these fellows are little below the Sultans in their ideas of ornamentation. The ordi- narj- people are likewise lovers of decora- tion, with devices of all sorts, and it is com-
mon to see metal chains of considerable weight about the necks and ankles of people and little shell devices attached to variouo parts of the body.
It is to the tortoise shell ornaments as I saw them in service among these people that I will refer particularly. My first view of the industry was when I saw several na-
tives tugging away at a monstrous turtle along the beach near Jolo. They had fixed several pieces of native rope about the neck and feet of the turtle and were hauling the turtle in this manner over the ground. The weight of the turtle was said to be 270 pounds, and the shell appeared to be very fine material. It glistened in the sunlight to good advantage. This shell would be valued at about $4 gold in its present form. Even then there is the meat, which is usually worth about $1 in gold among the natives, as that meat is relished when properl3' cooked.
First, the shell was removed from the tur- tle and the process is by no means a pleas-
GOOD C.XTCH.
ant one as performed by the natives. They have several different methods of doing the work. One of the worst I saw involved the heating of the shell until the turtle himself pulled awa\- from it, tearing his flesh, and dying soon after. Other natives kill the turtle with blows upon the head and cut awaj- the flesh with knives. The shell is usualh' permitted to remain exposed to the sun for about a week, the foreign matter thereb\' being thoroughly dried off, so that the shell can be scraped advantage- ously. In the scraping process the thin por-
tions of the shell are often nearly pene- trated. The next process involves sawing the shell into pieces of required length, most of the pieces being about six inches square.
There is considerable chipping and filing to he done with very crude tools in order to make scune of the patterns called for by the artistically inclined Moro. Some of the Dattos are extremely fond of tortoise shell ornaments with elaborate designs and pay high values for the same. There are na- tives who devote all of their time and ener- gies to the production of these shell devices for purposes of wear. They often secure
the original pattern from imported jewels, or, as I observed in several instances, from the patterns of jewels seen in the catalogues- of foreign houses. If a special design is wanted, a good waj- to obtain it is to secure an engraving of something like what you
need from a circular of a jewelry concent and hand it to the Moro shell worker, and he will come very near to making a correct reproduction.
Some of the shell ornaments that I ob- served in use bj- the natives and on sale in the shops of the tortoise shell workers are illustrated herewith. In Fig. 1 is a cross pattern carved from the solid shell, with a base or ground of the same material. In fact, it is all one piece, worked out with the crudest descriptions of tools. Often a few pointed instruments, a file-like device and some polishing contrivances are all that the shell manipulator possesses.
In Fig. 2 is another sample of work of the Moro artisan. It consists of a cross sup- ported bj' a chain of pearls. The pearls are secured from the pearl-bearing oysters of the southern shores of ^Mindanao Island. The natives are very adept at working out these crosses and arranging them for sup- porting chains of pearls. The Moros are of the Mohammedan religion, but the people are devout, as a rule, and crosses are freely worn.
I noticed that the shell workers of the country- also produced some unique forms of rings from the turtle shells. In Fig. 3 is a model of one type. There are three
projecting places, and from each of these there is a brilliant pearl or stone glistening, giving an odd effect.
I saw some charms of peculiar order, one of which is presented in Fig. 4. This con- sists of a little .square of the shell, flat- tened and surfaced with a face-like figure, in some cases a perfect figure-head being
February 4. 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
23
engraved. I was shown several of these ornaments arranged with ferocious faces, to which a startling expression is given by means of protruding eyes, projecting nose, and fangs of considerable length and curva- ture from the jaws. These figures appeared to please the natives.
Fig. o is a ring for the finger, cut from the shell. Sometimes the little balls at the lower edge are cut solid on tne parts, rep- resenting long days of labor on the part of the maker of the ring. Then, again, one sees that the cylindrical part of the ring is bored at the edge of the flanges for receiv- ing these pins and balls, giving the same effect.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS ALL ANCIENT.
Although the shell workers of the Moro tribes have been employed at their trade for
generations, every one of the tools employed by them is of ancient origin. All of the tools show the results of long usage. There is very good opportunity here for the sale of jewelers’ tools and fittings, providing some one visited Jolo or Zamboango to instruct the natives in the use of the same. In the meantime the crude devices will continue to be used.
Fig. ti is a universal tool among the Moro shell ornament workmen. It is a piece of steel, tapered as shown, with the point kept sharp, so that when the tool is held between the palms of the hand and twirled, and pressure applied, the point of the tool is caused to penetrate. Shell pieces can be drilled very readily in this manner.
There is the trifle more up-to-date boring device, shown in F'ig. 7. 'Fhis has the steel
boring portion fitted with a bow and string. By playing the bow back and forth and holding the steel tool straight, and apply- ing pressure, a hole is drilled through shell quite rapidly.
'I'hen comes the processes of filing, which, as performed by the Moro jewelers in the
finishing of shell devices, is done with im- ported files only occasionally, most of the files used being of the home-made order, one of which is sketched in Fig. S. This is a piece of metal which is first softened
by heating, so as to remove the temper.
Then, with a hardened-pointed instrument, diamond-shaped points are chipped up all over the surface of the metal. The metal is then heated, and when at proper heat is dipped in oil. The temper is thus re- stored and a crude variety of file results.
/O
The polishing and general finishing de- vices used by the natives are next shown. F'ig. I) is a pad, made liy fitting a skin tight- ly over wadded portions and fixing to a handle of wood. The skin is fastened with rawhide. This device is used for polish- ing purposes. A type of brush used, shown in Fig. 10, is made by splitting up the ends
of bamboo. A very useful brush results, and it is surprising what an amount of work can be done with it.
Fig. 11 is one of the typical stone mortars which one sees in all of the shops, while in Fig. 12 is shown one of the sample shell buttons of the jieople. 'I'he Moros are very- fond of fancy buttons, and if these buttons
of shell are made with artistic edges and decorated with engravings in some man- ner they sell very readily. Silver money is often used for buttons.
Antique Silver Exhibited in London.
A UNIQUE exhibition of old table plate was recently held at the Fine Art Society, New Bond St., London. Dating from the 17th century, the collection in- cludes loans from a large number of well- known collectors. It was not a great dis- play, nor of the richest, for it lacked such massive pieces as belong to the high and mighty, but, for that reason, it was the more interesting ; the exhibits being repre- sentations of the table plate of well-to-do citizens having a homely character eloquent of English life 200 or 300 years ago. Sim- plicity was the leading characteristic of most of the designs.
The supervision of the selection, and the arrangement and cataloguing of the exhi- bition was undertaken by Percy Macquoid, and Mr. Macquoid read a paper on the “Evolution of Form in Table Plate,” that caused an unusually large company to as- semble in the society’s rooms.
The subject of the lecture was, of course, a very large one. and Mr. Macquoid con- tented himself with dealing with the growth and development of form in silver plate from the Tudor period downwards. His re- marks were illustrated by limelight views. The illustrations shown included a cup be- longing to Oriel College, Oxford; it was used in the second half of the loth century, and was one of the earliest examples — probably brought over by the Crusaders.
Dealing with those useful and very neces- sary articles — knives, forks and spoons, Mr. Macquoid said that, though we were in the habit of associating their use together, yet the dates assigned for their introduction were by no means contemporaneous, the spoon being by many centuries the earlipt. The table knife did not come into exist- ence until the end of the loth century, while the fork was not used in conjunction with the knife in 'this country until the middle of the 16th century, the dagger and spoon being found sufficient for all pur- poses during mediaeval times. In England, the fashion of eating with a fork was at first regarded with much contempt, but after the middle of the 17th century a few sets were evidently in existence.
The earliest knives were very small, with straight slender blades, and handles of carved agate, silver or ivory. These in- struments, being regarded as great luxuries, were treated as individual property. To- wards the end of the century just named, the sabre blade made its appearance. Then the size gradually grew — the steel was made wider and more curved — till the revolu- tion of fashion once more brought the straight blade into fashion. Long, long ago forks were used for sweetmeats, but not till quite the end of the 1.5th century did it occur to anybody that they might be use- fully applied to meat. The happy thought struck the Italians.
In the exhibition were seen a rare spe- cimen of an old four-pronged fork, dated 1682. The first forks were all two- pronged, and the species is so hardy that in spite of ridicule, it still survives. There were examples of all kinds in the Bond St. collection — one exhibit in particular being remarkable as the earliest known set wholly silver, and with an English hall- mark. The dates thereon are 1698-1701.
24
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903-
The Diamond Setter and His Work.
Diamond setting is a trade by itself, separate and distinct from other branches of jewelry manufacture; yet, al- though a diamond setter, whose work stands at the culmination of the processes through which a piece of jewelry passes, need know nothing of the work preceding his own in order to effectually meet the recjuirements of his employei, he is often- times a graduate from other departments ; for this trade, being the highest paid of any in the industry, is looked to by other workmen as a most desirable weapon with which to fight the battle of life.
But all jewelry workmen cannot become diamond setters. The work requires at- tributes of mind and body inaugurated at birth; and without them the effort to master this trade is sure to be fruitless.
The best of eyesight is needed, with in- domitable patience and self-command, nerves capable of the highest tension for nine hours every day, and a large, strong hand and muscular frame to aid the work- man in the laborious carving of gold.
The technique is simple. The tools used are nearly the same in scope and utility as an engraver’s, and for this rea- son, engravers ver}' often find their way into the craft.
The most common manner of diamond or, broadly, stone setting is the familiar cramp, or claw style. The setter embeds the mounting in warm shellac on the end of a short stick, which, when cool, holds the delicate piece firm in all parts.
The claws come to him blunt and straight, like the stiffened fingers of a hand; these he files to a point on all but the outside surface, and, with a chisel-like graver or scauper, digs by downward cuts, shoulders for the edge of the stone to rest on. With sharp nosed pliers he bends the cramps inward or outward as is needed until the stone will squeeze tight- ly into the circle with the edge resting on the shoulders; then the ends, project- ing above the edge are bent over and burnished tightly to the stone with what is called a pushing tool, a piece of soft steel about the size and shape of a 10- penny nail, the large end fitted into a round handle and the small end filed square.
The next step is bright cutting the cramps; that is, bringing each to a point with three cuts, two on the sides and one on the top. To leave a glistening surface, the cutter, the chisel-like tool spoken of, is, after sharpening, rubbed sideways on fine emery paper or a polishing stone; the edge thus polished leaves a bright sur- face where it cuts.
The bright cutting finishes the job. which, with a stone as small as the end of a slate pencil, is done in less time than this description can be read.
Other methods of setting are the close or thread, the star, and the gypsy or flush setting. The latter is used mainly in men’s rings where a large stone is sunk in solid gold and the surrounding metal ham- mered down over the edge.
Bv MORGAN ROBERTSON.
Star setting is, as its name indicates, cut- ting a star around the hole to contain the stone, which, however, is usually first fit- ted in and then removed for convenience in cutting the star. It is quite difficult work and needs to be practiced as a spe- cialty before a perfect job can be done.
The cutter’s skill is shown in leaving a raised spur of gold in each hollow point, close to the edge of the hole, to form the bead, so called, which is afterward pressed over the stone and formed into a ball by a heading-tool, a pointed piece of steel with the usual round handle and a semi- spherical hollow in the point. Star set diamonds are used in lockets, charms, watch cases and flat band rings.
Close or thread setting is worthy of de- tailed description, as the finest and cost-
MORG.VX ROBERTSON.
liest jewelry contains more or less dia- monds set in this manner. The mount- ing, whatever its design, is always made on certain lines with regard to its later handling by the setter; it is invariably thicker than the diamonds are deep; the holes that are to receive the diamonds are separated from each other by the same thickness of gold; and these holes are enlarged to the same distance from the edge of the mounting, generally as close to the edge as it is consistent with strength.
The setter with a side-cutting tool, en- larges these holes still more to take the stones, leaving a bearing or shoulder for the edge and, if possible, a thin wall of gold between them to act as a cushion and protect each stone from its neighbor; this is trimmed away afterward. When all are in place they are fastened by beads. With a tool shaped like a carpenter’s gouge, but solid, the setter goes along the row of stones and lifts up. from the tri-
angular space between them, a solid spur or “chunk” of gold; working the tool sideways and upward, he forces this spur in until it covers the edges of the two adjacent stones. When these are rounded up with the beading-tool there will appear a symmetrical line of glistening balls on each side of the row of stones. Other things equal, the liigher and cleaner are these beads, the greater the skill of the setter, and the better the job.
Beading but half finishes the work; with different shaped cutters, sharpened and polished, he carves away the gold at the side of the row, leaving a smooth, slant- ing surface from the edges of the stones upward and outward at the edge of the gold, finishing with a narrow, horizontal cut on this edge or thread.
Mountings are made, such as circular clusters, which involve beads on the in- side, and cramps on the outside of the row; the beads fastening in the large cen- ter stone as well.
A Marquise ring which displays a mass of small diamonds with as little gold be- tween them as possible, must be set care- fully, as the beads which hold the inside stones in place will not bear much manipu- lation without being ruined as ornaments. Indeed, they are mainly ornamental in these rings, and a canon of the trade is: to squeeze the stones in so tightly that they will stay in place without further securing.
Rubies, sapphires, emeralds and all col- ored stones are set in the same manner as diamonds, but, being more fragile, ad- ditional care must be taken in order not to chip them.
It is the fear of breaking stones that is so trying to the nerves of the setter. In order to work quickly he must know just how hard he can press on a stone with- out breaking it and this knowledge can only be gained by repeated, practical ex- periments with the breaking pressure of all the different kinds of stones he handles; an expensive course of training for his employer if indulged in at once; hence he must lengthen it out, so that it takes j’ears before his hand possesses the deftness of touch that enables him to pro- claim himself master of his trade. And the more phlegmatic he is in tempera- ment, the longer will he escape the irrita- bility and testiness that is the inevitable result of long continued work at this em- ployment.
The pay varies with the skill and speed of the setter and the difference in men is so great that it has never yet been suc- cessfully regulated by weekly wages, al- though some makers of the finest goods insist on paying their men by the week, as precluding the hurry of piece-work and consequent lowering of the standard of workmanship. But the piece system is (or in my time was) the method employed by the majority of manufacturers, and, though the price per stone may rise and fall with the nicety of work demanded and the quantity given to the setter at one
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
time, he usually receives a uniform rate for cramp setting and for close-set work, while for stones set in the star or gypsy method, which come in smaller quantities, he generally receives special prices.
Morgan Robertson.
There are probably few of the many readers of The Circular-Weekly who have read the forceful and interesting sea stories of the well-known novelist, Mor- gan Robertson, who are aware of the fact that the tales which they have so much en- joyed are from the pen of a fellow-crafts- man; for such Mr. Robertson may truly term himself, having been a practical watchmaker, jeweler and diamond setter for several years.
Some of the novelist’s fellow-members in the jewelry trade in New York, who knew him intimately nearly a decade ago, may fail to recognize the illustration on page 24 as the portrait of the jeweler who, in 1894, invented the “nautical watch chain,” a novelty that was exceedingly pop- ular among yachtsmen and lovers of the sea. Mr. Robertson, though he has changed considerably in appearance since he left the jewelry trade, is nevertheless in every other respect the same modest, per- severing, brilliant and successful worker that he has always shown himself to be in every calling he has followed. Though these have been many, Mr. Robertson has proved that he was an adept at them all, and unlike the usual Jack-of-all-trades, he was not content until he had mastered every one in turn from sailor to novelist.
As no one who has ever read his stories can fail to understand, Mr. Robertson fol- lowed the sea for many years, and his love for this life may truly be said to be in- herited. as his father, Andrew Robertson, of Oswego, N. Y., was one of the old-time skippers of the Great Lakes. In 1877, when but 16 years old, Mr. Robertson started his career as a sailor on the Ringleader, bound from New York to Shanghai. He circled the globe in this ship, left her at Liverpool and came to New York, after which he sailed on the Great Lakes for a season. During the next eight years he varied his time be- tween salt and fresh water sailing, until he had mastered all the details of a sailor’s work, frequently filling the position of sec- ond and first mate. Mr. Robertson never commanded a ship, for before attaining that position he decided to change his line of work and settle down as a landsman.
Being always handy with tools, Mr. Rob- ertson decided that he would learn a trade, and having saved enough money to live on, during his apprenticeship, he started in to learn the watchmaking trade under the late B. D. Barnes, of Oswego. In this work he made great progress, much to the surprise of his teacher, and by the time his fingers were w'ell limbered up he was suf- ficiently advanced in his new vocation to come to New York, where he worked as optician for several concerns. Not satis- fied with this, he took positions in other lines of work, until he became a diamond setter, which trade he followed with con- siderable success, working for such firms as Howard & Cockshaw Cox. Cooper,
Ward & Young; M. B. Bryant & Co.; Krementz & Co., and others.
During the great depression in the jew'- elry trade in 1894, Mr. Robertson found considerable time on his hands, and began utilizing this in contributing to weekly papers and magazines. Little by little this work increased until Mr. Robertson finally left the jewelry trade entirely and devoted his time exclusively to writing magazine stories. His fight tor recognition by the public was as hard as that of the usual magazine writer, but owing to the author’s determination and perseverance as well as to the brilliancy and thoroughness of his work, he gradually obtained what novelists call a “reading public,” until to-day there is no better known writer of short stories, nor one w'hose tales of the sea are more generally recognized as being the best of their class.
Among his best known works of recent years are the series of short stories, pub- lished under the titles of Spun Yarn, Where Angels Fear to Tread, Ship Mates, his novel Masters of Men, and the novel- ette, Futility. In press at the present time, and soon to be issued by the Harpers, is a novel, known as Sinful Peek, and a series of short stories, which will be published under the title of Down to the Sea.
In addition to novel writing, Mr. Robert- son is a poet of no mean ability, and one of his first literary attempts was a satire, in verse, on some orthodox religions, entitled The Tale of a Halo, which has run through several editions.
Whether Mr. Robertson has at last found his calling, time alone will show, though it is more than probable that in the next few years he may add to his “vocational” con- quests by graduating as a dramatist, critic or historian. If he does, he will surely be successful in his attempt, as he is in all the work he has ever undertaken, for he possesses to a marked degree the great essentials necessary for success in every line — ability, capacity, determination and application. • T. E. W.
The Indian Prince as a Buyer of Jewelry.
BY GEORGE CECIL.
The half-tamed princes from England’s eastern empire, who occasionally visit London, are, as may be inferred from their gaudy and bejeweled attire, men of wealth. It does not, however, necessarily follow that they are strictly punctillious in dis- charging their debts. Far from it. They come of a race of people who greatly ob- ject to paying their tradesmen. .\nd though some of the specimens on view in England's metropolis every Summer are quite as hon- est as is the British spendthrift of noble family, yet there are many whom it is unwise to trust. For the Rajah or Maharajah who plays polo, shoots, hunts and drives a four- in-hand, though he will only be too pleased to bestow vast orders on Bond St., Picca- dilly and Regent St. watchmakers, is not given to signing checks in payment thereof. Indeed, it would seem that the more rupees he possesses the less inclined is he to part with them. It is really more difficult to extract money from a Mahomedan or Hindu of high degree than it is to squeeze champagne out of a brickbat. It some-
times seems as though no power on earth will 'make the black brother pay the vendor of rings and scarfpins his just dues.
With the spread of education in India the rich colored people have taken largely to drink and to sport. In the latter con- nection they indent on the wares of that trade, which is thought by a section of the public to make one a millionaire. They require wrist watch straps, to be worn in the Indian jungles, expensive jewelry for use when staying with their distinguished friends in England, and brown leather lip strap watch guards, as well as assorted jewelry of each variety. With a view to exhibiting themselves in the Park, they buy gorgeous studs. For tennis and ping-pong tournaments they require white flannel shirts, in the center buttonhole of which a solitaire reposes. Anything of an excep- tionally gaudy nature will appeal to them most strongly. In fact, so ready are they to give the jeweler an order for a dozen or so pairs of sleeve links that their custom can be secured with very little difficulty. If their willingness to buy were only equaled by their anxiety to pay they would be quite ideal customers.
A certain number of the Rajahs visiting England place large orders in Calcutta and Bombay. They are, however, only too glad to transfer their patronage to those London houses which supply royalty and other equally exalted people. It will thus be seen that it is an easy matter to prevail upon them to order watches and clocks of every de- scription. The wily shopman, when con- fronted with his august client, should have no difficulty in luring him on to investing a considerable sum of money in goods which he does, or does not, want. A few bangles and chains left lying about, so as to attract the attention of the Rajah should result in an inquiry from the black man as to who wears such gew-gaws. A hint to the effect that crowned heads possess themselves of massive seal rings and that the owners of coronets buy diamond bracelets for ladies of the stage would quickly have the desired effect.
With regard to the matter of payment, on giving an order the dusky customer should be politely informed that it is customary in England to pay at the time of delivery. In fact, a hint might be dropped to the effect that this rule holds good in the most exclusive of social circles. Of course, it would be far more pleasant to do business with the Rajah in the usual manner. But as it is absolutely necessary that the jeweler should safeguard himself against loss, it is as well that he should adopt the innovation suggested. Otherwise it is to be feared that he will “get left.” It may be added that the native retinue attached to the person of the Indian Prince will probably clamor for a commission. Doubtless British Nestors of commerce refrain from listening to their solicitations. It is equally possible that they will consider it expedient to pander to them.
It may, in conclusion, be observed that the Indian notabilities who come to London every Summer remain in England till the late Autumn. Metropolitan and provincial jewelers are thus afforded the opportunity of selling them goods for u.se during their visit, and supplying them with a stock to take back to India with them.
2G
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4. 19U3-
Speaking of Signet Rings
has it ever occurred to you that many of the so-called hand= carved signets on the market are not carved by hand at all, but are cast in a mold and sharpened up with a graver to give them a hand=^carved appearance? Jl genuine hand^carved ring is ex= pensive, because to be high grade it must be the work of a skillful engraver, who, to produce the best work, must be an artist com= manding an artist’s salary.
We do not claim that the
DURAND RIMG
is hand^carved, but do maintain that in design, execution and appearance it is equal, and in many cases superior, to any hand= carved ring that can be made. The DURJifiTi RING is made by a patent process, in which each ring is stamped from a solid block of gold by a hydraulic pressure of 140,000 pounds. The most minute lines and ornamentation in the steel die are repro= duced on the ring by this great pressure, with the utmost accu= racy, so that even under a powerful glass not the slightest imperfection can be seen.
Quality, weight and workmanship considered, the DURJIND R^ING is the cheapest ring on the market, and is THE RING IT WILL PJIY you TO HJINOLE. Send for memorandum selection and let us tell you of our liberal offer to assist you in your advertising.
DURAND Ca CO.,
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY,
Fashions and Fancies of To-day in Jewels and Silver.
By ELSIE BEE.
such as the shield form for the face of the signet are being ventured upon. In gem sleeve links, mismating has been one of the features of the season. The flat, oval forms prevail almost entirely in these useful cuff accessories, though round ones are not un- familiar, and among these the pearl buttons with diamond centers are an established mode. Entire sets of vest buttons, shirt studs and sleeve links come in this style.
While the fob represents the latest fashion in connection with the watch, both for men and women, it is one that, as far as man is concerned, runs smoothly along on the cur-
rent side by side with the vest chain. The fob is a favorite with men who interest them.selves specially in the changes of the mode, not only because it is a new thing, but because it really affords opportunity for the exhibition of a very pretty taste. It is a nice question whether one will choose, say, five scarabs cut in chrysoprase and linked to- gether with gold, or one big, fine stone in the clutch of eagle’s talons and resting on a
Between womankind and that form of art which embodies itself in gems and jewels there has always existed a very great affinity. The astute Isaac, in patri- archal days, knew very well what he was about when he wooed Rebecca with an ear- ring and bracelets of gold, and modern man does not disdain to resort to much the same expedient on occasions. And this brings us to the point that, even for his own personal use, the lord of creation now shows an in- creasing appreciation of the utility and charm of jewels.
Perhaps the beaux of a century or two ago had Iretter opportunity, with their picturesque cos- tumes, for the display of ornaments, but the gentle- man of to-day takes a de- cided interest in this mat- ter, the result being that jewelers cater to his tastes with unwonted care and thoroughness. It may be true that “man wants but little here below.” but, cer- tainly, he intends that little to be of excellent quality.
His signet ring and his fob, the two latest items of modish dress, are a renais- sance into whose shapin.g enter the very best ideas of this later day. .Around him also gather many small items that are essentially mode r n — the convenient tie clip, the improved studs and buttons, the elaborate suspender buckles and im- portant stocking support- ers. In the line of purely decorative objects his scarfpins range from dain- ty affairs that often serve a lady’s turn equally well, to sporting models that an- swer to every manly taste in hunting, driving, coach- ing. racing, yachting, golf, polo and the like. His smoking and desk sets, his pocket knives, cigar cut- ters, spirit flasks, brushes and combs, shaving set and various cases of decorated leather all diffuse an at- mosphere of substantial elegance and more or less ornateness, according to the taste of the owner.
-As to particular details of man’s modes, the thin- cased watch is one of the more recent wrinkles.
Tooth mounting is again effectively used for very costly ring stones, such as large dia- monds. Calx){;hon cutting for rubies, emer- alds and sapphires can no longer be called unusual, and there is a decided taste in large and fancy diamonds for the heart and mar- quise shapes, to which the pear has lately been added. The all-gold and the stone sig- net rings have not only put themselves upon a firm footing, but some little eccentricities,
CORSAGE ORNAMENT AND PENDANT. RIBBOX AND TRELLIS MOTIFS.
shining silk ribbon ; whether a plain leather or ribbon strap with a buckle will content one, or its fac simile woven in gold with a seal pendant of one of the fashionable stones seems better worth. Just here may he noted the rumor that the topaz is to be much fa- vored again in men’s jewelry.
But to return to the daughters of Eve. with whom this sketch began. Only a few years ago the first class jeweler's answer to the request for earrings was, “We will make them to order.” A little later the solitaire diamond screw and the single pearl filled a few cases ; then small clusters, such as a tur- quoise set in diamonds, and halls pave followed, but all to be worn close up to the ear. Now some notion for pendant effects is occasion- ally seen, with altogether more freedom and variety in design. Earrings are more worn, yet no woman is out of style because of their absence from her toilette.
Long has the bracelet ranked as an affair of sen- timent. Dainty fingers may toy with the golden circlet in moments of uncertainty or embarrassment, a n d,. according to modern usage, a manly hand may clasp and lock it upon a lady’s wrist in token of a pros- pective, lifelong alliance. The engagement bracelet remains one of the things that please : all sorts of chain and flexible affairs are in vogue, and oftener than not cabochon gems handsomely punctuate them. Being, as has been said, to some extent a rep- resentative of sentiment, it is not surprising to find a chain bracelet mounted with a monogram locket capable of accommodating two portraits. Bracelets of a less retiring disposition, as well as brooches and rings, often present a mini- ature photograph to public view, for the picture fad is still with us.
More than a twice-told tale is that of the present prestige of jewelry among women of any pretension to- fashion ; yet it may not be amiss to mention that at all important social functions simplicity is a back number of for- gotten date. In full dress a jeweled broad collar does not preclude a riviere or rope of diamonds or pearls ; and in the same toilette a magnificent corsage parure and an elaborate stomacher may have their satellites in the shape of all the stray pins and slides for which the costume will afford a background. Ad libitum continues to be the rule for rings, and the sensation caused
25?
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4. I'JUj-
last season by the appearance of crowns, dia- dems and coronets has faded into the shade of the past. And it is the artistic work of the designers and craftsmen that makes such an array a vision of loveliness where, under less favorable auspices, conglomerate horror might reign.
Ribbon work in fine jewelry has been so often mentioned in these columns of late that it might be pronounced an old story | were it not that this design is more and j more used and its variations multipb' and grow in beauty. The dez-ant de corsage here illustrated exploits most gracefulh- the dia manic bow knot and flexible ribbon, to- gether with fine floral sprays, while the ac- companying sketch of a pendant shows the trellis motif now largely adopted for corsage' ornaments, pendants and brooches. A large moth witii latticed wings of diamonds in j lightest platinum setting affords a fine ex- j ample of this work. In a similar ornament 1 the border of the wings, forming the frame of the lattice, is of gold. And here the un- I surpassed technique of the modern jewelers, as illustrated by this delicate union of plati- num and gold, excites admiration.
DI.XDEM OF OP.\LS .VXD DI.VMOXDS.
In the accomplishment of a successful coiffure the pins, combs and other orna- ments are now carefully considered, so that the jewelers' productions in this line acquire greater importance. During the past year baroque pearls have provided material for innumerable decorative conceits for the adornment of such articles — some dainty, purely lovely ; others whimsical or fantastic. Of late Vart nouveau has taken a stronger hold on the accessories of the coiffure. .A beautiful gold inlay work intermingled with diamonds interprets it exquisitely in one in- stance. This inlay contrasts pleasingly with tortoise shell in either the rich, dark shades or the lighter tones of the latter. Entirelj' of the new art is the peacock design that may be noted on the set of combs illustrated. The griffin motif, too, is a thing of the new art. and both designs show in the back- ground a lacelike effect which is likeh’ t: grow more popular in the future, lace being one of the watchwords of Dame Fashion this season and most lavishly used.
L’art nouveau remains fashion's latest mood. The beautiful work of the Italian jewelers of the 16th centurv- appears to have been the fountain at which certain French designers found a fresh inspiration not many years ago. Like those old-time artists, the new jewelers utilized colored enamels, ivory, ebony and strange materials, and made only a sparing employment of precious stones. L'art uouz'cau jewelry evokes, in the first
place, a picture of “beauty of line” that may well be left to speak for itself to all who will hear. Through all its manifestations runs a linear harmony. Though an orna- ment be modeled most simply in metal or ivory, there never fails the loveliness of rounded form, replacing that fatal "flatness" which had stamped inferiority and meanness
TORTOISE SHELL COMB, PE.VCOCK DESIGN IN DI.VMOXDS.
on much of modern jewelry previous to the advent of a richer art.
Superimposed on the primary trait of en- trancing form is the perfect coloring of shaded metals and enamels. Soft and har- monious are some of the latter as nature’s own tints ; again, clear, pure and strong, if the artist so wills — as if there were a picture to be painted rather than a mechanical con- struction to be built up. In a jewelers’ jour- nal it is hardly necessary to touch upon the different enamels used, yet the effectiveness of the translucent variety as it rests in a wide collar on a milk-white throat deserves a word. Then, too, what varietj- and life enamels impart, and a relief to the solid and heavv- parts of a metal ornament, even though that metal be gold.
Third in the new art comes the stone or stones, which are of importance as heighten- ing the ornamental scheme by their color, fire or purity. Gems, enamels and the patina of metals thus compose the palette from which the new art jeweler fills in the out- lines that Nature herself has suggested to him. For the motifs of the new art are
TORTOISE SHELL COMB, IXL.VID WITH GOLD AND DI.VMOXDS.
those of life and not of convention. Plant forms, animal forms, the human figure, how boldly they are rendered, yet all touched by the magic wand of imagination — -idealization. The human figures are grotesque, weird, tragic or comic ; the animals, creatures of mingled reality, fable and legend : the plants, poetic rendering, such as come to those who “consider” the lilies of the field.
So much for Vart nouveau in first es- tate fur ct simfle. But- all things change.
The new art modifies itself with time. Be- cause there is a passion and an insistent de- mand in the mass of social humanity for precious stones, these are now more largely used, yet with as great propriety as at the first. Our jewelers adopt here one idea and there another from the new methods, though following none servilely ; and the influence of the new movement extends far beyond its original sphere, showing itself in the greater grace of conventional designing of the old school.
Baroque pearls (which were rapidly brought forward by the new art) have been very thoroughly exploited. “Ubiquitous” sums up in one word their present position in the field of jewels. They form scarfpins. studs and sleeve links ; they adorn necklaces, collars, chains, brooches, bracelets and rings ; they enrich chain purses and leather work of everv' description. With their aid are simulated beasts, birds, insects, fishes and
PENDANT OF GREEN ENAMEL, OPALS AND DI.VMOXDS.
floral treasures of every sort. Their pecu- liar adaptability to the most delicate design- ing appears in the little orchid brooch shown. In this dainty presentment a ruby forms the center of the flower, each petal is a baroque and one pink pearl of exquisite hue domi- nates the whole. To complete the descrip- tions of the jewel pieces illustrated it may be remarked that the chief merits of the diamond wing brooch lie in its perfect work- manship and the fine cabochon rub}- that forms its center.
With this Winter's style of dress cloak clasps have come into greater use. Elabo- rately carved and jeweled affairs. 6 to -S inches across, have lately appeared on ele- gant wraps at swell social functions of the season, and they furnish a welcome innova- tion in wedding gifts among people with plethoric bank accounts.
That extensive series of stones, hard and handsome in their varipus coloring-^, and commonly known as “fancy stones." has been admitted largely into the jeweler's realm within a few days. Turquoise matrix has been accepted as decorative material, and turquoises were never more popular. Chrysoprase. which King Edward, then Prince of Wales, is credited with having
February 4, 1903.
PHE JEWELERS CIRCULAR- WEEKLY.
29
SBartonCo.
D Rings
e
Providen
NewYorK 9 is Maid Chicago 103 St
i
30
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCL'LAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
31
brought into fashion, helps to satisfy the fad for green that has by no means exhausted itself.
The amethyst has many devoted admirers and fashion promises to take it up more warmly than heretofore. It harmonizes with the softest tints in dress and blends well with the warmest. .\s a beautiful oval of rich purple, surrounded with a rope of pearls or a chain of diamonds it makes a brooch of e.xceptional beauty. Legend has treated few stones more charmingly than the amethyst, and one always likes a gem the better for agreeable facts and fancies that cluster round it. In color the amethyst is the only representative of royalty among jewels. The true Oriental amethyst was “the eyelid of Venus” to the old Latins. It holds a place in the gates of the Heavenly City of the Chris- tian. To the Hebrews it symbolized human love, planted in sorrow and perfected by faithfulness. The Greeks fashioned ame- thyst quartz into drinking cups and believed that no evil effects could follow the wine drunk therefrom. The amethyst has been beloved b}’ the poets. Its beauty is sacred to the lofty aspirations and pure ideals that “feed our earthly blindness upon the thought of perfect noon.” Modern fancy revives the Hebrew tradition and makes the amethyst the emblem of deep love and fidelity and an assurance of sincerity and peace of mind. An amethyst heart is a charming keepsake between betrothed lovers and parting
friends. .Vnd, finally, this lovely gem is the natal stone and talisman of good fortune to all who. like The Circular- Weekly, were born in the month of February.
Coral has quietly pursued its way to gen- eral recognition. Xot only are strings of beads much worn, but many-rowed collars, after the fashion of the diamond and pearl ones, with diamond slides, are now made. Ropes of coral beads, simulating the mag- nificent pearl ropes, are mounted in gold. Coral enters into the stone ornamentation of bags and purses ; it is utilized in brooches, pins and sleeve links. Coral, by the way. is said to be considered by the native Mexi- can Indian as a “mascot” against evil; if he is not rich enough to buy a coral necklace for his new-born child he will borrow one or even steal a bead for the child’s welfare. The Italians, too, will often wear a jagged piece of coral, just as it is found, because of a belief in its protective power.
Strings of beads of all kinds now enjoy much of their old-time popu- larity. White coral, pink coral, red coral, amber, turquoise, opal or plain gold, they embody a mode never without its devotees since humanity first began to bedeck itself. Nobody knows who invented beads, but it is quite probable that they were the earliest ornaments of the maidens of the primitive age.
Cameos have shared in the revival of good old things, which i,s takes only a few whirls of fashion's wheel to turn up afresh from time to time. The popularity of pearls, the demand for diamonds and the tremendous vogue of all the precious stones hardly needs mention here.
Fashion's tale would be quite inadequate were chain bags and purses denied a para- graph. L’art nouveau is here again at the front in the decoration of frames, but some of the costliest are quite plain and enriched only with precious stones. The gemming of such articles, however, increases rapidly. A somewhat extreme illustration of stone setting is here given, but in this case the
XOVEL BAG, SET WITH STOXES.
bag is silver gilt and the stones of the fancy order.
-\rt leather goods open another vista of beauty to the observer in their coloring, metal decoration and jewels. Beasts, birds, reptiles and fishes all give up their skins to the making of these articles of luxury. Possibly the snakes and lizards are getting off with less loss of life than for some time, as manufacturers seem to be taking to no- bler game, such as elephant and buffalo, when they can be had, and hornback alliga- tor. These answer to a prevailing taste for the bolder effects in leather. Sea animals provide very popular leathers and walrus bags and pocketbooks, of rich color and well marked, are an agreeable acquisition. Os- trich skin is noted as a novelty among the leather small wares.
bird's-eye view, such as the present one, does but scant justice to the American sil- ver and gold smithing of to-day : for the honorable term of goldsmith finds greater employment than heretofore, and to it might well be added that of coppersmith, it hav- ing been one of the marked features of the past year that metals other than the white have been taken largely into favor. Pos- sibly the relic-hunters have been to the fore in this matter. When old pewter became valued an interest naturally arose in new pewter. Copper mellowed by use and age was scarce and difficult to unearth, and modern enterprise instinctively asked. “Why is there not again a field for this handsome metal ?” Pewter now makes a modest show, pleasing not a few people in loving cups, mugs, tankards and trays; but right royal has been the road of copper to favor. Its rich hue strikes the eye strongly ; its soft
lustre strengthens the first pleasing impres- sion. In its splendid color there is a depth and yet a delicacy that arrests and holds the fancy.
Burnished copper with silver embellish- ment, appearing first in vases and a few such articles, has developed a range that includes writing desk and smoking sets, cases for cigars and various other articles, such as tankards, steins, mugs, umbrella and cane handies and numberless small trifles; and, in general, it may be said that it finds con- genial environment wherever utility and or- nament go hand in hand. There is, how- ever, one special department of service where there is always room for any new- comer with exceptional merit or unusual novelty. The new combination of silver and copper, therefore, expresses itself in most handsome manner on the toilet table. Im- agine a Watteau or Bougereau placque in gray silver warmed and enriched with a decorative frame and handle of shining cop- per, the whole forming the back of a hand- mirror, while brushes and other articles are manipulated in the same style, each bearing a different design and all worthy of the con- sideration of a connoisseur.
Silver deposit on copper demands no de- tails as to its effectiveness. Silver deposit on pottery, by which the latter is entirely sheathed in the precious metal, represents one of the recent departures. As might be expected, bowls, cups, vases, pitchers, tank- ards and the like are its chief exponents. Here, exquisite figure modeling of the new
BROOCH BAROQUE PEARLS AXD PRECIOUS STOXES.
art kind stands out as the notable point of the decorative scheme. generous tank- ard, for instance, shows no such common place device as a conventional handle; the said handle is replaced by a joyous Bac- chante, worthy of Maemonnies himself, while beneath the lip of the vessel smiles a mask of Silenus. On a punch bowl, grape- wreathed in bold relief. Rhine maidens dis- port themselves amid the ripples of the river that cunningly contrive a surface decora- tion for the bowl. Pieces in this style afford a study in literature and art, and should cer- tainly ‘‘serve for table talk,” each one having its peculiar interest.
Silver deposit work has lately been turned to very practical account in the fine art of dining. Various dishes are most desirably served en casserole, and this has led to some improvements upon the ordinary silver plate casserole. \ very attractive brownish pot- tery is now decorated with silver deposit, mostly in plain bands, such as befit a utili- tarian article, and these casseroles come in sizes both large and small. Very taking tea- pots, too. there are for those who beliee in brewing the cheering beverage only in earth- en ware, and monogram ornament is consid- ered the swell thing for these.
Empire. Queen .A.nne and Colonial fash- ions in all sorts of table silver pursue their
32
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
accustomed way and I’art nouveau begins to offer too many variations to admit of de- scription. This latter utilizes, for decorative motifs, bold flower forms, such as the iris, the lotus, the rose, the chrysanthemum, the paeony, etc., and the grape has lately become a fad of the silversmiths, as it is just now that of the art embroiderers and the mil- liners. Legend, classic history and pictorial art all help to inspire the figure decorations that divide favor with the flowers.
The small and odd wares of the table offer . much novelty. Here, for elegant service, are the ramequins of decorated French porce- lain set into a pierced silver frame, with the one long side handle characteristic of the cruder prototype; and there are silver entree dishes, with ears and a cover, resting upon a small plate.
Bouillon cups of decorated china in silver frames with loving cup handles form a charming array.
Peculiarly attractive are slender chocolate cups of French porcelain decorated in pink and provided with frames whose base of pierced silver is a square instead of the usual circle.
Quite a pleasing wrinkle for the hostess abreast of the times are the dainty little in- dividual almond dishes that form a set with the regulation almond dish.
The oyst..r cocktail glass has become a thing of importance in the past year. One example of it in porcelain on a silver stand- ard takes the form of the ordinary cham- pagne glass, and. indeed, might serve either purpose.
Highball glasses are tall, tempting affairs of crystal set in a circular frame with han- dle.
Russian tea glasses, to accompany the samovar, rest upon a small silver plate with a fixed circular cup in the center for the reception of the glass.
A fashion of the day among many good diners is the serving of mineral water di- rectly after coffee, and a tumbler of ap- proved size placed in a rather heavy gray silver base is the silversmith’s provision for this custom.
Decidedly unique is the plant of a silver cracker bowl, where the center of the wide, shallow bowl is arranged for the reception of Worcestershire sauce, horse radish and catsup bottles.
An asparagus holder, like an abbreviated pair of tongs, serves for the deft lifting of a few stalks from one of the new asparagus trays that are provided with a pierced silver bottom or draining board.
Changes are always to be found in the fashions of jewels, silver and gold; but it seems no longer accurate to say of these that one goes out of style in favor of an- other. Rather, it appears that, nowadays, each new fancy is but an addition to a col- lection of modes that never grows too large.
There are collectors who fancy that old silver marked by the Goldsmiths Hall is better than that bearing a provincial stamp. This is a mistake. Silversmiths of merit were found all over old England, and customers were in the habit of having their purchases marked locally, because the Civil War and highwaymen made people chary of carrying valuable property to London in the years gone by.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
33
1540
Tl\f I
Are only made of such quality and finish as will afford the customers of all careful Retailers complete satisfaction. They have done this already for more than two generations, and will continue to deserve the confidence of the trade.
Our Line of
Signet Rings
is complete and merits attention.
M. B. BRYANT & CO., 7 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK.
1542
SIGNET
RINGS,
BROOCHES.
FOBS.
BRACELETS.
We are originators of designs.
No. lira.
Signet Ring, No. 1316. Price $1.00 net.
Our Stock of SIGNET GOODS is the most complete. Selection packages to jewelers of mercantile standing.
Factory, 52 Maiden Lane, New York. Ofaicago, Ills., 1629 Masonic Temple. (L. Katlinskv.)
PEARLS 4S“c‘ksTi.
If a customer should bring you any Diamond or Pearl Jewelry to sell, and you do not care to buy it yourself, take it to
CHAS. S. CROSSMAN & CO.,
No. 3 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK, where you can have an immediate Cash Offer. Established 1880.
OUR REPRESENTATIVES DURING 1903
WILL BE
hi:rbe:rt a. rhichman,
who will call on all of his old trade as usual ;
CHARLES r. GOTTSCHALH,
in the Middle West :
LUGLNi: PRETZEELDER.
in New England, New York and part of Pennsylvania.
JOS. H. FINK & CO.,
Factory,
49 HAIDEN LANE.
Mfrs. of Rings,
65 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK.
“Practical Course in Adjusting.
99
By THEO. GRIBI. Price $2.50
All Jobbers or Jewelers’ Circular Pub. Co.
The Bowden Rings
ARE COMPLETE IN VARIETY, CORRECT IN QUALITY AND PERFECT IN FINISH. WE MAKE EVERY VARIETY OF FINGER RINGS.
J. B. BOWDEN & CO.,
1 Maiden Lane. NEW YORK.
34
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
have been placed in a cabinet made espe- cially for them, and in the catalogue which has been placed inside the cabinet is a de- scription of each stone and the place from which it came.
Among the most remarkable specimens to be found in the cabinet is one in the shape of an oval disc, which is about two inches across its widest part. By holding this disc up to the light one is able to see a perfect landscape scene. The shading of the differ- ent minerals in the stone produce a ravine, through which runs a small rivulet shaded by trees and a wooded bank rising back from the water to a plain covered with vege- tation. The color of the sky, the water and the vegetable growth is very natural, and the whole scene is so complete in every de- tail that one could almost imagine it to be a painting in miniature.
Another excellent piece of agate which is seen in the roughness of its natural state and which in general appearance is exact- ly opposite to the one already described, is a piece in which rough turquoise is surrounded by a coating of smoky quartz. The speci- men in its original state was probably like an oval disc with a raised top, but as seen in the cabinet this disc is broken open, so that it shows a cross section of the formation. The pieces of turquoise are firmly imbedded in the smoky quartz, while a sort of roof of the same overhangs it. The piece is hol- low and must originally have been formed by gases which lifted the smoky quartz from the top of the blue stones, leaving them in a crystal form and in a thoroughly polished state.
Another beautiful specimen of agate has been polished trans-sectionally, showing the agate in a state of formation. Each strata is of a different color and the lines in it are geometrically parallel to each other. There is every shade from black to smoky white, the most beautiful being those of car- nelian, chalcedony and jasper. .A, beautiful specimen consists of an amethyst partly coated with smoky quartz in an agate geode.
According to the catalogue a great many of the most beautiful specimens came from Brazil, where to-day are found some of the most beautiful agates in the world; but there are many others from Germany, Si- beria, the -\lps, Russia. Mexico, Iceland. Uruguay. Montevideo. India, Egypt, Aus- tralia, Hungary. Cuba. England, Scotland, Labrador and from more than half of the states in the United States, including Ne- vada, Iowa, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Cal- ifornia, Maine and Oregon.
After being collected, the major part of these stones were taken to be cut and pol- ished to Oberstein and Idar, Germany, where are the principal agate cutting facto- ries of the world.
Some of the most interesting and most pe- culiar specimens in the collection were pho- tographed especially for 1 he Circuear- Weekly and are, shown on page 36 of this issue. One of the pieces in the group is composed of rock crystal with the quartz pebble ground, from Brazil : another specimen consists of a geode with an outer shell lined with chaberite and goethite from the Hartz mountains ; another snecimen from Brazil consists of amethyst and quartz and has a feathered interior. Brazil also contributes a beautiful onyx agate with an eye formation and sardonyx agate sur-
E Beautiful Collection of JIgate Specimens.
PROBABLY no single precious or semi- precious stone has more varied colors and more variety in its mineralogical make- up than has the substance known as agate, which technically consists of a conglomera- tion of certain silicates or quartz minerals which in texture, color and transparency differ radically from one another. All col- ors of the rainbow can be found in this
F. Wood & Co., diamond importers of 1 Maiden Lane, New York. This col- lection was begun more than 30 years ago by the late R. A. Kipling, a well-known connoisseur on precious stones, who was one of the unfortunate passengcr.s that went down with the ocean liner Moliegan off the coast of England in October, 1898. Mr. Kipling's e.xperience in dealing in precious stones and his wide acquaintance both in this country and Europe enabled him to I form the nucleus of an agate collection that I has blossomed out into one of the finest, if
AG.\TE COLLECTION OF CH.\S. F. WOOD & CO.
substance, and almost every variety of pat- tern is formed by the lines of the different strata of the chalcedony, carnelian, quartz, jasper or other minerals that compose it.
Because of this unique formation and the strange coloring and shading, agate has al- ways been a popular stone in some forms of jewelry, and is the one most often in demand by curio collectors for cabinet pur- poses. Several notable collections have been made in this country and abroad, and among the finest and most complete of these is the collection now in the possession of Charles
not the finest and most complete, in the United States.
After Mr. Kipling's death the collection he had formed was sold by his widow to its present owners, who immediately began to add to it, keeping up the excellent standard adhered to by its starter and using the same discrimination that characterized Mr. Kip- ling’s work from the beginning. The collec- tion now numbers more than pieces. They have been gathered from every known quar- ter of the globe, have been examined, classi- fied, neatly tagged and catalogued. They
February 4. 1903,
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
3.T
DIAMONDS
Desirable, well made goods of all grades.
TwentietK Century Cutting. TKe New Emerald Cutting'. Drops and Marquises.
Fancy Colored Diamonds and Blue Gems.
Mounted Diamond Collars, NecKlaces and Lorgnette Chains.
PEARLS
From the most Important Specimens down to Reg'ular Graded Goods
in all Shapes and Qualities.
Pearl Necklaces, Collarettes, Ropes, Pearl Earrings, Mounted Studs, Tlmerican Pearls.
COLORED STONES
Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphires,
Olivines, Opals and Fancy Stones.
OUR GOODS ARE INSURED IN TRANSIT TO ANY AMOUNT.
JOSEPH FRANKEL’S SONS
68 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK.
Telephone, 2733 John.
19 C0L 20 HOLBORN VIADUCT, LONDON, E. C.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR— WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
rounded bj' carnelian quartz. A peculiar specimen of onyx is also seen in a Brazilian agate which has been ground and polished so that it appears almost exactly like an owl’s head. One of the most beautiful pieces of agate showing a variety of colors is the one from Egypt, which shows jasper, yel- low, brown and red in an irregular banded structure. Australia contributes a specimen of opal infiltered on jasper.
Some of the most beautiful agates in the world come from Brazil, though there are many fine specimens found in Scotland, in the United States and in the hills around Oberstein, Germany.
The Sapphire Fields of Anakie.
Sapphires have been known, for sev- eral years past, to occur in a num- ber of localities near the small railway station of Anakie in Central Queensland, and a report was written on the subject in 1892 by Dr. Jack, giving details of their occurrence and of the prospecting work carried on up to that time. An examina- tion has recently been made by B. Dunstan, of the Geological Survey of Queensland.
The Anakie railway station is situated
The former, consisting of pegmatite, felspar porphj-ry, and felsites, are in great abun- dance and traverse the granites and gneisses in all directions. The basic variety is either massive hornblende rock or diorite. There are also outcrops of epidote and gar- net rock in places, resulting probably from the alteration of limestones in contact with the granite. The next j'ounger formation consists of a series of shales, sandstones and conglomerates, and probably belong to the Permocarboniferous Formation. No fossils, however, have been found in them. There are no representatives of the Meso- zoic Formations to be found in the dis- trict, except boulders of a hard, flinty quartzite occurring in tertiary and recent alluvial deposits. These remnants of a pre-existing formation are general in their occurrence in Central Queensland and pe- culiar to that district. The rock is known to miners as “Billy” and has been placed as of “Desert Sandstone” age. It occurs exclusively in the alluvial sapphire deposits formed below the junction of the Drum- mond beds and the granite. The sapphire deposits are distributed over a large area, but nearly all are confined to the granite district and occur on the banks of the creeks. The thickness of the sapphire wash
■\GATE SPECIMENS IX THE COLLECTION OF CH.\S. F. WOOD & CO.
On the main Central Queensland line; it is 26 miles west from Emerald and 192 miles west from Rockhampton. The sapphire fields extend from it in a northerly and westerly direction. The Drummond range is the main watershed of the Anakie dis- trict, having the Lamia, Anakie and other ranges branching off from it. The most prominent landmark is Blount Leura, a peak about 2,000 feet high. The w'hole of this area is drained by tributaries of the Nagoa river, of which Theresa creek is the principal affluent. It is the smaller branches of Theresa creek, how'ever, such as the Central, TomahawL, Retreat, Argyle and Sheep Station creeks, about which most of the deposits of sapphire wash are to be found. There is no difficulty in traveling over most of the country drained by these creeks, but some of it is mountainous, and other low-lying parts are covered with a dense scrub. Granite and its varieties form the oldest and most extensive system of rock masses in the district. Gneisses, schists and slates rest against the granites, and the gradual changes of these rocks from one to the other can be observed in places, and from which it is assumed that the granite is of metamorphic origin. In- trusive rocks occur — both acidic and basic.
varies considerably in various workings, in some places being only a few inches, while in others it amounts to several feet. The bottom is usually a reddish clay resting on decomposed schists and slates. Mis- takes have been made in supposing this red clay to be invariably the bottom, since richer beds have at times been found be- low. Frequently the wash is clayey and requires “puddling” before the sapphires can be extracted. Much, however, is loose and friable, and the stones are then ob- tained by “dry sieving.” The important deposits of the district may be separated into the four following main divisions :
(a) Retreat creek and Sheep Station creek,
(b) Policeman creek, (c) Tomahawk creek, (d) Central creek.
On Retreat creek there are numerous, but generally small, claims. The sapphires found vary in color and are blue, green, yellow' and parti-colcred. The rock boul- ders and pebbles in the wash include sev- eral varieties of “Billy,” red and brown jasper, basalt and other rocks, and among the smaller pebbles tourmaline, topaz, rock crystal and varieties of chalcedony. In one claim two yellow sapphires, weighing nearly .50 karats each, were unearthed. The most important area cf sapphire bearing
country occurs a few miles up Retreat creek, near to Mt. Bullock, and is about four miles long.
Deposits of sapphire wash occur on both the north and south sides of Policeman creek. The workings on the southern side are mostly on the central and western por- tions, that to the east not containing suf- ficient stones of marketable size to make it remunerative. The deposits on the north side extend some distance and then cross to the south side of the creek, and are con- nected higher up with those' of Iguana Flat. The stones of the latter place are large and diminish in size to the lower end of Policeman creek.
Of the .Central creek deposits very little is know'n. Their position and area have been fixed approximately, and a rapid in- spection disclosed immense bodies of w'ash, forming whole hills and ridges which can be traced continuously for miles. What the ultimate result will be when they are prospected it is impossible to say, as they might be very poor in sapphires or exceed- ingly rich. On the surface, wherever in- spected, pieces of corundum and pleonaste and occasional fragments of sapphires of a light green color were found. The creek is 27 miles northwest from Anakie station.
The sapphire deposits of Tomahawk creek are the most extensive in the whole district. They are, in places, a mile in width and several miles in length, extend- ing from Mount Hoy to below the junction of Tomahawk and Central creeks. Entire ridges are composed of the wash, so the deposits must be of great thickness. The area so far prospected is exceedingly small compared to its vast extent. The total length so far as is known, is about 15 miles, but it is probable they extend fur- ther north. The wash is similar to that of Central creek, and the sapphires found were shades of blue, green and yellow.
The methods used at present for sepa- rating the sapphires from the wash-dirt are very simple. If the dirt is loose and dry it may first be passed through an ordi- nary gravel screen to remove the larger pebbles, and then the fine dust is removed by means of the dry jigger, which consists of a screen on four upright springs of brigalow wood. The sapphires are picked by hand from the intermediate product ; as they are generally coated with clay or iron oxides, there is probably a consider- able loss in the operations. In the wet method of treatment the same sieves and jiggers are used, and the sorting is done more expeditiously and with less chance of losing the stones than in the dry way. Sluice boxes are not used on account of the insufficient supply of water during the greater part of the year. It has been esti- mated that up to the time of inspection £10,000 worth of sapphires had been sold to dealers in these stones, — Imperial Insti- tute lournal.
W. C, Hillburn, a jeweler of Graliam=. Tex,, was married recently to Miss Iren-' Haskins, of Jacksboro,
P, C. Munn, formerly of Bostick, S. C,, has moved to Greenville, where he has just started an electro-plating business known as the Greenville Electro-Plating Works.
February 4. 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
37
PEARL NECKLACES.
We call the attention of the trade to our large line of fine pearl necklaces, which we have just completed in addition to our extensive line of fine mounted diamond and precious stone jewelry.
MEMORANDUM ORDERS SOLICITED.
BATTLE, ETTINGER & HAMMEL,
68-70 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK.
Telephone, 2647 John.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903-
Items About Minerals and Gems.
OPEN CUT IX THE SAPPHIRE LEDGE AT YOGO.
in reports of the United States Geological Survey, and also the reports of the Bureau of .Agriculture, Labor and Industry of Mon- tana ; therefore, there is little that can be said in the way of technical description that is not already familiar to mineralogists gen- erally, as well as to many members of the precious stone and jewelry trade. Though much has been written about these mines and their products, very few members of the jewelry trade have ever visited the local- ity in which the sapphires are found, and, therefore, the illustrations herewith, show- ing views of the mines and the method of hydraulic mining, will no doubt prove of in- terest.
These cuts are all of the Yogo mines in Fergus County, 13 miles west of the town of Utica, and are situated in the midst of a broad and open basin enclosed on three sides by the Little Belt Mountains. Most of the material mined is derived from an open cut 400 to 500 feet in length, of which a good idea may be formed from the first illustra- tion. M’indlasses are employed and men are kept at work with picks and shovels throw- ing the earth into shallow tubs, which are hauled to the surface and thrown into ordi- nary dump-carts. This earth is then taken about a mile to the sluice boxes, where it goes through its first washing. In sluicing, the process followed is similar to that of washing gold-bearing gravels, but no mer- cury is used, the gems dropping between the Hungarian riffles, with which the sluice boxes are fitted.
The following is a description of this process, as published in a former report of the I’nited States Geological Survey :
year, according to the hardness and tenacity of the magma. Superintendent Sweeney of one large company assists the elements
IN its department devoted to Mineralogy, the Popular Science Nezvs recently pub- lished the following notes about discoveries in gems and minerals which come into the jewelry trade:
Moonstone. — .A new form of this mineral has been found near Bakersville, N. C. It is a white or gray oligcclase, transparent or translucent, and remarkable because, parallel to the cleavage plane, there are crystals of red goethite, unusually brilliant by reflected light, so that in one position the stone has the appearance of moonstone, and in another that of sunstone.
Ofau — There is found at Puerto Prin- cipe. Cuba, a moss opal which has some resemblance to the moss agate of Wyom- ing. The moss is of a yellowish-brown color, and is well distributed through pieces of opal varying in size from a walnut up to four inches across. The opal is translucent to opaque, in color yellowish to opal white.
TUNNEL ENTRA.NCE TO VOGO SAPPHIRE MINES.
in the disintegration of his dumps by turn- ing a flow of water on them occasionally, and hv this means the hardest of the vein
The mineral has no gem value, but makes a handsome and interesting cabinet spe- cimen.
C^c Sapphire mines of montana.
Much has been written on the question of Alontana sapphires within the past few years, and the mines, as well as the geological conditions of the localities in which they exist, have been fully described
“When first attacked the magma is passed over a ‘grizzly’ (screen) and the finer parts pass at once into the sluices. The coarser, harder material is thrown into the dump, where, after is passed over a ‘grizzly' (screen) and the finer parts pass at once into the sluices. The process of disinte- gration occupies from one month to one
matter is ready to pass through the sluices in two months.
“For cleaning up, an ordinary rocker is used, with three screens of as many sizes, through which the ‘pay dirt’ is passed. M’hen the 'pay dirt’ has been worked down as closely as possible in the rocker it is panned in one of the finer screens, dried and the stones picked by hand from the small amount of gravel remaining. .All the stones are saved, the larger perfect ones being valuable as gems : the smaller ones being used as watch jewels and in other fine mechanical work ; the imperfect ones are ground and mixed with diamond dust and used in gem-cutting and for polishing purposes, when it is known as emery.'’
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
39
JIre manufacturers’ Best friends.
52 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK
67 RUE OE LA VICTOIRE . PARIS.
6H0LB0RM VIADUCT, LONDON
PEARL PURCHASING as a PROFESSION
Money Right in Hand
Never were pearls in higher favor, and never was there a better market for them.
Purchasing American Pearls and Slugs is my specialty.
My facilities for advantageous disposal of them are unrivaled ; and this enables me to pay the hrghest prices.
It is clear that the person who pays the highes t price for a commodity is the most profitable one to sell it to.
There is more to these statements than the mere wording of them..
My cash returns bear them out.
Dollars talk for me.
Send me yoiir Pearls and Slugs — all sales to me
are satisfactory.
MAURICE BROWER,
Importer of Diamonds and Precious Stones,
12=14 = 16 JOHN STREET
(Anderson Building),
NEW YORK.
40
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
I>ow to Tdemify Precious Stones.
The greatest difficulty is frequently e.t- perienced by persons who have not had opportunities of handling precious stones in the rough to distinguish them one from another and discriminate between gems of the greatest value and others which are comparatively worthless. It is a mistake to place an\- reliance whatever upon color as a test of a precious stone, as there is no property natural to gems which is so fickle and unreliable as that of color. For in- stance, if a stone be red, it is not of neces- sity a ruby, nor a white stone a diamond ; and there are yellow sapphires, green dia- monds and blue spinels. In the diagnosis of precious stones it is advisable always to apply as many different tests as possible to
as tests, are those of hardness and specific gravity. By the hardness of a gem is meant the power which it possesses of resisting abrasion. Many of the hardest minerals can be easily broken, fractured or chipped, though they cannot be scratched ; thus a very hard stone may be a very brittle one. Diamonds, emeralds and zircons, for in- stance, have often been injured by a blow or a fall. There is a scale of hardness, devised by the mineralogist iMohs, consisting of It! minerals, which forms a recognized stan- dard to which specimens under examina- tion may be compared. The scale puts the diamond as 10 ; the sapphire. 9 ; topaz, 8 ; quartz, 7 ; felspar, (i ; apatite, .7: fluorspar, 4; etc. In making a test, a number of these minerals, suitably mounted in little handles, are applied in succession to the gem to be examined, so as to attempt lo
HYDRAULIC -MINING FOR S.VPPHIRES AT VOGO. (See text, page 38.)
each specimen and to be guided by the re- sult of them all, as it often happens that one is apt to be misled by the application of a single test.
Most of the precious stones (opal and turquoise are the exceptions) are crystals of rare minerals occurring in nature in more or less familiar geometric crystalline forms, which are classified by mineralo- gists into six systems, the study of which comprises the science of crystallography. Although a knowledge of crystallography, of the natural forms in which crystals oc- cur, is of the utmost value in the success- ful discrimination of rough precious stones, it is not a subject which can be easily mas- tered or brought into practical use without considerable application and study. The reason for this is obvious, when we con- sider that, with the exception of diamonds and a few other gems, crystallizing in the "cubic system,” precious stones are seldom found to exhibit more than a trace of their characteristic crystalline formation, which fact is due to accidents at some remote per- iod of their existence, rough usage while immersed in rivers and torrents, etc.
II.ARDNESS AND SPECIFIC GRAVITY.
The natural properties of gems, which are most easily and most universally used
scratch it. When the gem neither scratches nor is scratched by any member of the scale the two stones may be considered the same hardness. When it scratches the softer and is scratched by the harder of two test stones some idea of the position between them may be obtained by drawing all three specimens, with slight pressure, across the surface of a fine, clean, hard file, and notic- ing the different degrees of resistance to abrasion and the sound produced. This op- eration requires to be done with a delicacy of touch which is made perfect by practice alone. The following list of a few of the gems and their degrees of hardness will serve to show their relative position to Mohs’s scale: Diamond. 10; sapphire, 9; ruby. 8.8: chrysoberyl, 8.5; zircon. 7.8; em- erald, 7.8: green garnet, 6. It is an in- teresting fact, although of no importance in distinguishing precious stones, that slight variations in hardness exist between indi- vidual specimens of the same kind of gem brought from different parts of the world, and often, too, even between those obtained from various mines in the same locality. Thus the toughest diamonds come from -\ustralia. while Indian and Brazilian stones are harder than those from the Cape.
To obtain the specific gravity of a stone.
liquids of different degrees of density are used, in which the gems either float or sink, according to their relative weight. A solution of mercuric iodide in potassium io- dide (“Sonstadt’s solution”) is a liquid of great service, which should be made up to solutions of several different densities. So- hition A equals 3.17; solution B equals 2.9 ; solution C equals 2.(17 ; solution D equals 2.(13. This fluid has. however, the disad- vantage of being very poisonous and cor- rosive. .Another suitable liquid is methy- lene iodide, which is easily diluted by the addition of benzine, each drop of benzine making the liquid less dense. Nothing can be easier or more satisfactory than this method : however minute the stone may be. it can be identified by its density in a few moments. Suppose it to be doubtful wheth- er a certain gem is an aquamarine or a chrysoberyl ; all that is necessary is to place it in a tube of methylene iodide, together with a small fragment known to be aqua- marine, to serve as an index. If it be a chrysoberyl, which has a specific gravity of
3.6, it will immediately sink; if it be an aquamarine, which has a specific gravity of
2.7, it will float, in which latter case, if the liquid be diluted and stirred until the index fragment is exactly suspended, the doubtful gem also will neither float nor sink, but will remain poised beside it. The only reason why this method has not been more gener- ally adopted is that, unfortunately, a great number of gem stones are heavier than methylene iodide. But this objection is now removed by a discovery made by the dis- tinguished Dutch mineralogist, Retgers. He has found a colorless solid compound which melts at a temperature far below that of boiling water to a clear liquid five times as dense as water and therefore sufficiently dense to float any known precious stone. This comoound 'T a double nitrate of silver and thallium, and possesses the remarkable property of mixing in any desired propor- tion with warm water, so that by dilution the specific gravity may be easily reduced. The fused mass may be reduced in density by adding water drop by drop, so as to sus- pend in succession jargoon, carbuncle, sap- phire, ruby, chrysoberyl and spinel.
PRECIOUS STONES OPTICALLY CONSIDERED.
The optical properties of precious stones form valuable means of identifying them, especially when cut and polished, and there are several different kinds of scientific in- struments of more or less practical character which can be applied in this connection. The method of measuring the extent to which a ray of light is refracted in passing through a gem may be practised with the goniometer, an instrument found in every physical laboratory. In order to avoid the necessity of cutting the stone into a prism, it is advisable — after finding two of the facets which form a convenient angle — to paint over the remainder of the stone. The ray of light may then be traced through the two open facets and in this way can be measured not only the refraction but the double refraction of the stone. For this purpose, also, the little instrument known as the reflectometer is simple, but unfortunate- ly only useful to examine gems of low refrac- tive power, such as topaz and less brilliant gems. The dichroscope is an instrument which enables one to tell at a glance whether
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
41
TRADE
MARK
R'WALUVCE
We talk very earnestly of the virtues of our goods, as we naturally are enthusiastic over them. But our most convincing argu- ment is that which the ware itself presents. Just compare a piece of
1 835-R. Wallace Silver Plate
with the same article in any other brand and you have a practical demonstration of our superiority m every respect; design, die cut- ting, workmanship and quality, and a trade-mark that is not like a dozen others.
TRADE
MARK
STERLING
This stamp on sterling silver is an assurance of true worth.
R. Wallace & Son’s Mfg. Co.,
WALLINGFORD, CONN.
NEW YORK.
CHICAGO.
SAN FRANCISCO.
LONDON.
42
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
1903
Our Specialties for Spring' Trade :
LOCKETS,
FOBS
BELT PINS.
In Gold, Sterling Silver, Gold Filled and Royal Copper.
Hayden Mf^. Co.,
23 MAIDEN LANE,
NEW YORK.
a gem be doubly refractive or not, thereby deciding at once if tbe specimen belongs to the cubic system of crystallography or not. This is of value in distinguishing rubies and sapphires from other somewhat similar stones, which might be mistaken for them, and this instrument is in almost universal use among gem merchants. It is not com- monly known that many transparent min- erals, when viewed through a spectroscope, cause characteristic black bands to appear across the spectrum. Two of these minerals happen to be the gem stones, jargoon and almandine garnet, sometimes called carbun- cle. When a stone, say one set in a ring, is looked at in this way and gives the charac- teristic spectrum of zircon, it is at once known to be jargoon, without any further trouble. A crystal of tourmaline, while be- ing warmed, becomes electrified, one end becoming charged with positive and the other end with negative electricity. Ad- vantage has been taken of this fact by Prof. Kundt to make a very pretty test for tour- maline. If a mixture of powdered red lead and sulphur be blown or shaken through a sieve, the particles become electrified by mutual friction and if it then be dusted upon a crystal of tourmaline which is being warmed the positive electrified end of the crystal attracts the negative electrified yel- low sulphur and the other end attracts the positively electrified red lead — thus one end of the crystal becomes red and the other yellow. Now every crystal of tourmaline be- haves in this way and no other gem stone, so that this is a practical test as well as a very prettj' experiment. — Mining World.
Clock Case Factory at Washington, N. J., Totally Destroyed by Fire.
The clock case factory of Harris & Har- rington, importers and manufacturers of clocks and fine art goods, whose New York office is at 32 Vesey St., was totally destroyed by fire 2iIonday evening, Jan. 26. The building, which is known as the Lundy fac- tory, is located at Washington, N. J., and the stock it contained was covered by in- surance, but the loss in patterns and new designs and in orders, was very large.
It is not exactly known how the fire start- ed, as almost immediately after it was dis- covered the entire building was in flames. Adjoining the factory on one side was a woodworking establishment and on the other side a lumber yard and lumber shed. All three buildings were razed to the ground and the total loss was estimated at $75,000.
Hardly were the ashes cold when the con- cern began negotiating for plans and specifi- cations for a new building to be erected on the site of the old one. The new building will be larger, more modern and better equipped than the old, and the work on it will be begun in a few days.
Harris & Harrington received from their customers and friends many expressions of sympathy since their loss became known. Fortunately for the concern a large number of clock cases had been kept in reserve in their New York show rooms and other places, so that they are not totally out of stock. Among the greatest losses was the destruction of 12 new patterns and designs that had just been finished, and had not yet been shown.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
43
Silverware
For the Table
Oof
^'Sliver Plate that Wears’^
is soiimv«rsfllly and rnyoriMy known, that articles of oiir make nre recoKnized niid accepted by the tnde and public r>s (he slAiulard of tlie world, and are Kenemlly used by experts where examples in the most be:iiiliful table effects .Are desired.
Particular people, wishing table silver to conform with what 'scorrect in fashion and good taste, should NOTE OUR TRADE MARKS SHOWN BELOW and see that each piece lliey purchase bears our
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Tea Brts |
f.'iUliig quni- |
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r*a<llr«llrlis elr. |
ill design. |
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"1847 |
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Rogers |
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Cra |
Leading (teab |
Bros.” |
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tiujir |
Keoealxr "IM7" |
iNTBMNATIONALSlLVta CO.. Successor lo
^MERIDEW BRITANNIA CO., Wtrlden, Coon.
(THE eARBOUR. SILVER CO.,
Factory A,
Sterling and Plated Hollowware,
Meriden, Conn.
THE DERBY SILVER CO.,
Factory B, Plated Hollowware,
Derby, Conn.
THE HOLMES & EDWARDS SILVER CO.,
Factory C,
Sterling Inlaid, Plated and Un- plated Flatware,
Bridgeport, Conn.
MERIDEN BRITANNIA COMPANY,
Factory E,
Sterling and Plated Hollowware, Sterling and Plated Flatware,
Meriden, Conn.
THE MERIDEN SILVER PLATE CO..
Factory F,
Plated Hollowware,
Meriden, Conn.
WILCOX SILVER PLATE CO.,
Factory N,
Sterling and Plated Hollowware,
Meriden, Conn.
THE LARGEST TRADE ON RECORD
was the experience of dealers handling our reliable brands during the past year. Most dealers were practically sold out and will require a new supply in order to meet the early Spring trade. Our representatives will call shortly, but if necessary write the Factory making the class of goods you require, and illustrations and full particulars will be promptly mailed.
INTERNATIONAL SILVER CO.,
General Office, Meriden, Conn.
CHICAGO: NEW YORK CITY: CANADA:
State and Adams Sts. 9=15 Maiden Lane and 218 Fifth Ave. Hamilton and Toronto, Ont.
THE WM. ROGERS MEG. CO.,
Factory H,
Plated Flatware,
Hartford, Conn.
ROGERS, SMITH & CO.,
Factory E,
Plated Hollowware and Flatware,
Meriden, Conn.
THE WATROtS MEG. CO.,
Factory P,
Sterling and Plated Hollowware, and Sterling Flatware,
Wallingford, Conn.
ROGERS & BROTHER,
Factory J,
Plated and L^nplated Flatware,
Waterbury. Conn.
SIMPSON. HALL, MILLER & CO.,
Factory I.,
Sterling and Plated Hollowware, Sterling and Plated Flatware,
Wallingford, Conn.
THE MIDDLETOWN PLATE CO.,
Factory S,
Plated Hollowware,
Meriden, Conn.
THE ROGERS & HAMILTON CO.,
Factory K.
Plated Flatware,
Waterbury, Conn.
THE MERIDEN CUT GIASS CO..
Factory T,
Rich -American Cut Glass,
Meriden, Conn.
THE rORBES SILVIR CO..
Factory E, Plated Hollowware,
Meriden, Conn.
44
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
Februarj' 4, 1903.
FACTORY EAST SYRACUSE, NJY.
,109 WABASH AVE. CHICAGO ILL 409 BROADWAY N.Y.
SILVER PLWED WARE
The Jewelry Repairer’s Handbook
PRICE. 75 CENTS.
J«w«l«rt’ Circular PublUhing Co., II John St., Now York.
Gold Medal for the Best Musical Compo- sition Adapted to “America.”
There was put on exliibition at the es- tablishment of Tift’aii}- & Co.. 1-jth St. and Broadway. Xew York, last week a beau- tiful gold medal, which this concern recently completed for the Society of the Cincinnati in the State of Rhode Island and which has
GOLD MED.\L FOR THE BEST MUSICAL COMPOS
been offered by that branch for the best musical composition adapted to Samuel Francis Smith’s “America,” also known as ‘Aly Country ’Tis of Thee.”
The medal, which is one of the most beautiful struck in recent years, is of pure gold, measures 2U inches in diameter and weighs 150 pennyweights. As will be seen from the illustration on this page, the ob- verse is ornamented with a copy of the badge of the Society of the Cincinnati in
the State of Rhode Island. This consists of an eagle holding in its claws a wreath of laurel and bearing on its breast an oval shield, containing a classical representation of the .\merican Revolution, symbolized by three Roman citizens presenting Cincinnatus with a sword : in the background stands the cottage of Cincinnatus. with his wife at the door. Around the oval shield is inscribed
lOX ADAPTED TO S. F. SMITH'S '‘AMERICA.”
the motto, "Omnia relinquit servare Rem- publicam," which, translated, would read, "He leaves all to take care of the Re- public.”
The reverse bears a laurel wreath with a lyre at the bottom, surrounding the in- scription, "Awarded to for the best
musical competition adapted to S. F. Smith's ‘.America,’ 1902.”
The competition for this medal closes Feb. 22.
Address :
I Tahe the trovible
/ to enquire -what is meant \ by “ONEIDA COMMUNITY QUALITY” — You will learn
ONEIDA
ESTABLISHED
1848.
COMMUNITY./ something' new and advantageous.
Oneida Community,
NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
45
Sterlmg-Motmted Glassware,
J. F. Fradley & Co.,
Rich Cut Glass, Mounted with Silver, in Art Nouveau Designs*
Loving (Bups,
Glaret Pitchers,
Water Bottles.
Alsoj^New and Attractive Designs in
SILVER LOVING CUPS
Mounted with Buck-Horn and Tusk Handles.
Sterling Silver Novelties.
Sterling and Gold Mounted Cane and Umbrella Handles.
Send for Assortment of Photographs and Judge for Yourself of the Rapid Selling Qualities of our Goods.
ff4 East t4th St., New York.
V*MC MABO
A feature of our business is the making of Octagonal, Hexagonal, Beaded and Threaded Hollow Ware.
Another feature is our line of Old English flat chased work, with artistic cast borders, for fine trade.
Also in process an attractive commercial line of Hollow Ware from original designs, the kind jewelers need in stock for all seasons and occasions.
The ‘‘Corinthian’’ is our new spoon pat- tern. All jewelers carry it in stock.
w
trade mark.
Stamped on an article is a guar- antee that the same is sterling silver 925-1000 fine.
SALESROOM,
860 Broadway, New York.
FACTORY, lOI Sabin Street, Providence, R. I.
Rofltr milliams Silver Co.,
Silvcrsmltbs.
STERLING SILVER ONLY.
I
46
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
“The Bracelet House.”
GOLD
BRACELETS
Curb,
NetKersole, Bangle, Diamond, Fancy Stone, Baby Esther, Engagement.
KENT (t WOODLAND,
12-14-10 JOHN STREET,
NEW YORK.
Factory, NEA^ARH., N.J.
ESTABLISHED 1842.
1842-Taylor <a Ball.
1847— H. W. Ball ® Co.
I860 — Ball, Barnard ®. Parsell.
1864 — Ball, Barnard ^ Rogers.
1865 — Ball Barnard.
1876— Wm. H. Ball ®. Co.
1900-HENT WOODLAND.
- APEX
MATCH HOLDER
(PATENTED).
Holds a box of safety matches and furnishes convenient receptacle for the burnt ends.
Made in Sterling Silver, 2% inches long. Price, $2.25.
ALSO A LARGE VARIETY OF OTHER STYLES OF SAFETY HATCH HOLDERS.
MERRILL BROS. CO.,
31 EAST IT-TM STREET, PsIEW YORK.
Frank V. Morris Files Voluntary Peti- tion in Bankruptcy.
Utica, N. Y., Jan. 29. — Frank V. Morris, a retail jeweler at Carthage, N. Y., filed a voluntary petition in bankruptcy in United States Court here to-day, scheduling his debts at $4,596.09. All are unsecured. The nominal value of the assets is placed at $2,598.84, including stock valued at $1,747 ; debts due, $445.44, and machinery and other tools, $225. The exemption claimed is $390.
Morris has 105 general creditors, and about one-third live in Carthage. The amounts are small. M. J. Averbeck, New York, holds nine notes given by Morris for goods amounting to $340, and King & Eisele, Buffalo, hold notes amounting to about $500. Edgar C. Morris, of Syracuse, is a creditor for $920, and James E. Coil, Adams, N.
for $725. The two latter claims are for borrowed money.
Other creditors are: L. E. Waterman
Co., $8; Julius King Optical Co., $13; N. H. White & Co., $34 ; Robbins & Appleton, $4 ; ^Dennison Mfg. Co., $32 ; Wardell & Co., $6 ; Cross & Beguelin, $39; Carl Fisher, $11; Bayonne Knife Co., $45 ; Singer & Rothen- berg, $23 ; J. Kopelowich, $32 ; M. S. Bene- dict Mfg. Co., $17 : Geverlee Bennett Co., $39 ; Spalding & Co., $23 ; J. W. Sherwood & Co., $13; S. A. Weller, $27; New Eng- land Watch Co., $14 : Harris & Gips, $112 ; Rogers, Lunt & Bowlen Co., $44 ; Theo- dore W. Foster & Bro. Co., $31 ; Interna- tional Silver Co., $98.
Referee in Bankruptcy Atwell, of Water- town, will call a meeting of Morris’s credit- ors.
New Watch Inspectors for the Tennessee Central Railroad.
Nashville, Tenn., Jan. 28. — George R. Calhoun & Co.. Union and Summer Sts., this city, have received the appointment of gen- eral time inspectors of the Tennessee Cen- tral Railroad Co.
In the circular of the railroad company to their employes, announcing the appoint- ment, notice is given that the lowest grade of new watches of different manufacturers to be accepted will be : Waltham Watch
Co., “Crescent St., 21 jewels and upward; Elgin National Watch Co., “B. W. Ray- mond” 17 jewels and upward; Hampden Watch Co., “John Hancock” 21 jewels and upward ; E. Howard Watch Co., Number 3 and upward ; Hamilton Watch Co., No. 940 or 941 and upward. Swiss and other makes must correspond in grade to the above named American watches.
This order does not in any way affect the watches already in service.
Cattle. Ettinger & Hammel, 68 Nassau St.. New York, have just completed a large line of high grade pearl necklaces. The firm will hereafter deal more extensively than ever in fine pearls, which they will make one of their specialties.
The Wisconsin State Optical Society will decide the question of affiliation with tlie -American Association of Opticians next July, when the society will convene .at La Crosse, Wis. The members present at the last meeting concurred in the opinion (hat the society had assumed the right attitude in not undertaking to promote legislation, allowing the society to stand on its merits.
0 2
0
ake
99
There s one thing that the retail jeweler, who sells Blackinton’s famous “Old Reliable W. & S. B.'A’” Chains knows positively — and that is that every chain he sells will “make good.” He doesn’t guess at it — he knows it. In thousands of instances it has been the privilege of jewelers to know of Blackinton Chains wear- ing years after the guarantee expired. That’s the secret of “W. & S. B.V^” popu- larity they “make good.” Can’t shake the confidence of the jeweler who knows. He may handle other brands because he wants a little variety, but he recommends W. & S. B.^.” And his “say so” sells them 99 times in 100.
MADE BY
W. S. Blackiivton Co.,
New York, 14 Ma>.idef\ LaLne. Fa.clory, No. Attleboro, Ma.ss.
5
48
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
Death of Mrs. Theresa Lynch.
Mrs. Theresa Lynch, for many years a re- tail jeweler at 1 Union Sq., New York, who was often spoken of by the newspapers as the “Queen of Diamonds,” died Wednesday morning at her late residence, 6o Central Park West, after an illness of but two weeks.
Mrs. Lynch was widely known in New York and vicinity and in the precious stone markets of Europe. For more than half a century she conducted a successful busi- ness in various parts of New York, and demonstrated conclusively that her sex was not a barrier to building up and running a large commercial establishment.
Although the deceased was 73 years old at the time of her death, she gave her per- sonal attention to her business up to the time of her fatal illness. She was first taken with an attack of bronchitis, which became serious and developed into paralysis, which caused her death.
Mrs. Lynch was born in Dublin, Ireland, in 1830, but came to this country with her parents at the age of 10. In November, 1844, when but 15 years old, she married John Lynch, then a wholesale fruit dealer. While yet in her teens Mrs. Lynch pur- chased a diamond ring, which she afterward disposed of at a profit. It was her first busi- ness venture, and the success of it encour- aged her to continue in this line until she had laid the foundation of her subsequent lucrative trade. She sold diamonds in a small way with such success that she later opened a small store in East Broadway.
After a short time she removed from this
address to Grand St. and then to 12 E. 4th St. In 1867 she hired a store under the old New York Hotel and continued at this ad- dress for nine years ; then she moved to 925 Broadway. After a short time at this ad- dress she moved another block further up, to 937 Broadway, and finalR to Broadway and 14th St., or No. 1 Union Sq., her last place of business.
The deceased had a strong personalitj' and a shrewd business sense. From the very beginning of her business career she did business under her own name.
Mrs. Lynch was the mother of 16 chil- dren, six of whom survive her. She is sup- posed to have left a considerable fortune, which is largely invested in real estate.
The funeral services were held Friday morning at 11 o’clock from the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in W. 23d St. The interment was in Calvary Cemetery.
Death of J. B. Street.
Joliet, 111., Jan. 28.— J. B. Street, who died last week at his home, 115 Young’s .\ve., was a well-knov,’n jeweler of this cit3". The deceased was born in Bristol, Pa., July 15, 1850, but removed to Illinois early in his childhood. He had been in the jewelry business here for many years, and was for some time a business associate of George E. Feagans.
Mr. Street is survived by two young chil- dren. The funeral services, which took place from his late home, Sunday, were conducted by Rev. W. F. Atchison, and the remains were taken to Bloomington for in- terment.
February 4, 1903-
Death of Thomas G. Calvert.
Lexingtox, Ky., Jah. 30.— Thos. G. Cal- vert, a prominent jeweler cf this city for many years, died here last night, and his death is greatly mourned, not only by his personal associates, but bj' a large number of friends in the jewelry trade of Ken- tuckj' and Ohio, in which he was well known.
Mr. Calvert began business as a jeweler here early in the ’60s and built up a large trade. He was also interested in race- horses, and, with the late Clemens Helle- bush, of Cincinnati, owned a stable that was prominent on the turf.
Death of Peter Kaltenbach.
Racine, \Yis.. Jan. 28. — Peter Kaltenbach, who died in this city last week, was one of the pioneer jewelers and watchmakers of Racine, and was in business here for many years.
The deceased was 74 years old, and from 1851 to 1855 resided at Green Bay, \Vis. He came to Racine in the latter years and lived here until his death. He did business under his own name for some time, and later was a member of the firm of Feiker & Kaltenbach, which quit business about 1895.
L. Cornelius, Prairie Du Chien, Wis., is the promoter and owner of a new business block recently erected in that town. On the first floor are the offices of The Jewel Cas- ket and the Crawford County Bank. Of the former Mr. Cornelius is proprietor and of the latter he is vice-president.
HENBY FREUND.
LEO GOLDSCHMIDT.
We Are Coming.
Don’t do a tKing \intil yoxa’ve seen \is, and tKen you won’t do a tKing but use our sellers.
Henry Fre\md ^ Bro.
Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry, Elk Goods.
No. 9 Maiden Lane, New YorK City.
TX)T7IS FREUND.
JESSE Jj. BROWNE.
« o
February 4, 1903.
49
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
Up'tO'Date Hall Clocks
are identified witK o\ir production, of wKicK we Have put many new pat- terns, at moderate cost, on tKe marKet recently, in maKogany and oaK. TKere are no better sellers anywKere, as tbey are correct in every appoint- ment, and are fitted witK movements of recognized HigK grade, striKing Hour and Kalf-bour, or cHime quar- ters, WKittington and 'Westminster, on gongs or tubes. Our special made “Crown” movement Has no equal in quality, considering price.
Write for Catalogue and Price List. If you have a pressing order, you may be assured we can fill it at once. ^
T H i:
Herschede Hall Clock Co.
Office and Salesroom; 1011-1015 Plnm Street,
CINCINNATI. OHIO.
100,000
American Watches have ABBOTT’S PATENT STEM-WINDING ATTACHMENT. A. fesr more K.E'Y-'MTINDERS ore still in use. Send them to us for alteration and MAKE A EEAV DOLLARS rOR YOURSELF.
HENRY ABBOTT, 9 Maiden Lane, New York.
Horological Department,
BRADLEY POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE,
Formerly Parsons Horological Institnte, PEORIA, ILLINOIS.
Largest and Best Watch School in America.
We teachWatch Work, Jewelry, Engraving, Clock M^ork. ptics. Tuition reasonable. Board and rooms near
bool at moderate rates. Send loT Catalog Of Inlonnalloii.
PAUL DITISHEIM,
WatcH Manufacturer, La Chaux-de-Fonds.
THE GRAND PR.IX,
PARIS, 1900
LADIES’ SMALL LEVERS, AND CHRONOMETERS A SPECIALTY.
Hi^h-Class Ornamental Watches Decorated by Leading Craftsmen.
Just A-warded— State Prizes and Honors for highest records ever obtained for chronometers at the Neuchatel Swiss Observatory. {Prix Generaux, 1897-98-1901.)
Cable Address. DITIS. Chaux-de-Fondt.
50
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4. 1U03.
TKe Jeweler wKo sells
TKe
R.oy0Ll
(20-Year Filled Case)
can sleep o’ nigKts.
No ^Kosts or fears will Kavint his slvimber; instead.
He’ll dream of customers’ content and His own continuous prosperity.
PHILADELPHIA WATCH CASE CO.
RI VEKSl DE, N. J.
Chas. Kranich, Philadelphia, Pa., a Sur- vivor of the Jersey Central Wreck.
Among the passengers on the New Jersey Central express train which caused the wreck on the Central Railroad of New Jer- sey, Tuesday evening, Jan. 27, was Charles Kranich, of 2623 Kensington Ave., Phila- delphia. Mr. Kranich, who is a retail jew- eler in the above mentioned city, had been visiting New York, with his wife and daugh- ter, for three days, on the invitation of Jules Ascheim, wholesale jeweler, at 41 Maiden Lane, New York.
On the night of the accident V. L. Kurtz, one of ^Ir. Ascheim's salesmen, went to the train with Mr. Kranich and his family to see them off. About 8 p. m. that evening Mr. ■A.scheim received a telephone message from Mr. Kranich saying that he had been in the wreck, but had received no injuries.
A letter received Wednesday by Mr. As- cheim from the Philadelphia jeweler de- scribed the wreck in detail. iMr. Kranich said that he was jarred considerably when the express crashed into the local, and, in company with a son of John Wanamaker. assisted in getting out the wounded and dead of the wrecked car. Mr. Kranich speaks about the zeal and courage shown by Mr. Wanamaker, stating that the overcoat which he wore was burned up the back and his clothing was burned in several places.
After describing the wreck in detail, the writer stated that the express train in which he was riding was pulled back to Jersey City, where it remained until 2 o’clock in the morning. The seats in the cars were torn up and cots made out of them, so that the passengers could sleep. Mr. Wana- maker assisted Mr. Kranich in making a berth for his wife and daughter, as he did many other passengers in the train. Shortly before 2 a. m. the train started again for Philadelphia, and before 3 it was back again at the scene of the wreck. The train finally arrived in Philadelphia about -5 o'clock.
Mr. Jvranicn said he never was so glad to get home in his life. It was the first time he had ever been away from his native city, and he declared that if every subse- quent trip was to have a clima.x like the last one he did not want to visit New York again.
Elgin National Watch Co. Proposes to Increase Its Capital to $5,000,000.
Chicago, 111., Jan. 28.— It is proposed by the officers in charge of the Elgin National W atch Co. to increase the capital of that corporation from $4,000,000 to $.5,000,000. A special meetihg of the stockholders to act on this proposition has been called for March 3, and it is supposed that if the in- crease is decided upon the new stock may be sold at par to present holders.
At the meeting of the directors, held Mon- day, the following resolutions were passed :
Resolved, That a special meeting of the stock- holders of the Elgin National Watch Co., a cor- poration created by the State of Illinois, be, and the same is hereby, called, to be held at the office of said company, Room No. 201, American Ex- press Building, 76 Monroe St., Chicago, 111., on the 3d day of March, 1903, at the hour of 12 o’clock M., for the purpose of submitting to a vote of the stockholders the following question, viz. :
The question of increasing the capital stock of this corporation to $5,000,000.
Resolved, Further, that notice of such special meeting be given to the stockholders in the manner provided by law.
In accordance with these resolutions, the notices calling a meeting of the stockholders were sent out yesterday and were signed by A. C. Gartlet, H. .\. Blair, C. H. Hul- burd, E. A. Hamill, George H. Laflin, M. A. Ryerson and George T. Smith. The pro- posed increase in the stock is said to be for the purpose of paying for recent large ex- tensions and improvements made to the fac- tory. and provide for further enlargements of the company’s business.
Charlie H. Haden has sold his business • in Stockton, Mo.
BOTH ARE SATISFIED
YOU AND YOUR CUSTOMER WHEN YOU SELL Atl
E. HOWARD & CO/' WATCH.
HE HAS A FIRST-CLASS WATCH. YOU HAVE A FIRST-CLASS PROFIT. WRITE FOR AGENCY TO
THE E. HOWARD WATCH COMPANY,
^ ozuard
Boston.
403 WASHINGTON ST., BOSTON, MASS.
TKADE MASK
ESTABLISHED 1842.*
WE MAKE MOVEMENTS TO FIT REGULAR AMERICAN CASES.
28 out of 45 PR^IZES
' were awarded to
PATEK, PHILIPPE & CO.
In the timings contest of the Astronomical Observatory in Geneva, for the year 1901, comprising' the First Series I Prize, all the three First Prizes, the only Second Priz^.:, four Third Prizes out of six, three Fourth Prizes out of six, four Honorable Mentions out of eight, and twelve Single Mentions out of nineteen.
68 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK. GENEVA, SWITZERLAND.
February 4, 1903.
'FHE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
51
Invisible Material.
Into every JAS. BOSS GOLD FILLED CASE is put some material that cannot be held in a pair of tweezers, or put into a crucible, or drawn through a pair of rolls; cannot be xveighed, or measured, or counted; is not catalogued, and cannot be pictured ; is ''' without form',' as the soul is without form ; IS the soul, the con- tin u ing I ife, o f
The Boss Filled Case.
This intangible, invisible material is CHARACTER. It is that which gives vitality to the reputation of the Boss Case; inspires those who fashion it, informs those who sell it, insures those who wear it. It cannot be seen, yet counts for more than all that is shown; cannot be melted down into visible value, yet the good-will-of-the- Trade embodied in it is an asset of imposing worth. And it goes with the Case, “ without extra ch irge " !
The Keystone IV ate h Case Co.,
igth and Brown Streets, Philadelphia.
f)2
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR— WEEKLY. February 4.
A. & B.
HEADQUARTERS
FOR
Waltham Watches
EVERY GRADE.
Solid Gold, Gold-Filled and Silver Cases, em- bracing all sizes, and in complete variety of designs.
AVERY & BROWN,
68 Nassau St., New York.
Send in your name
We want the name of every jeweler who sells Wadsworth Cases. For this reason : We are advertising
Wadsworth Watch Cases
extensively in the leading maga- zines, ladies’ papers, engineers’, telegraphers’ and express jour- nals. From this advertising, we are receiving inquiries from all over the country. Inquiries from your locality will be referred to you, if we know yousell ourcases. It is a very desirable class of trade ; they will buy other things as well.
That is not all
Our advertising department is run as systematically as the other departments. We want to keep in touch with you, tell you what we are doing, and hear what you care to tell us. If you don’t sell Wadsworth Cases, ask your job- ber about them. It will be well worth your while.
The Wadsworth Watch Case Co., Dayton, Kentucky.
II John St., New York. Columbus Bldg., Chicago.
National Monthly Import and Export Statistics.
Washington, D. C., Dec. 31, 1902. — The records of the Treasury Department contain the following comparative statistics of interest to the jewelry trade, for December, 1901 and 1902, and for the 12 months ended December, 1902 :
IMPORTS.
1901. D
Clocks and parts of $37,G61
\\'atches, materials and movements 203,824
Diamonds, glaziers’ diamonds, etc., unset; dia- mond dust or bort and watch jewels (free) 436,136 1,
Diamonds, n. e. s., not set (dutiable) 1,315,483 1,
Precious stones, rough or uncut (free) 1,760
Precious stones and pearls, not set (dutiable).... 535,254 Jewelry and manufactures of gold and silver.... 280,905
E.KPORTS OF FOREIGN MERCHANDISE
Clocks and parts $113
Watches, materials and movements
Diamonds, rough, including miners’, glaziers’, etc. .
Diamonds, n. e. s. (dutiable)
Other precious stones, rough or uncut (free)
Precious stones and pearls, not set (dutiable)
Jewelry and manufactures of gold and silver 13,906
EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC MERCHANDISE.
|
Clocks and parts |
. . $109,023 |
$90,467 |
$1,264,018 |
$1,089,538 |
|
\\'atches and parts |
72,972 |
89,116 |
1,061,324 |
1,032,119 |
|
Jewelry and manufactures of gold and silver. . . |
99,534 |
112,325 |
1,278,355 |
1,304,335 |
|
Plated ware |
39,043 |
38,009 |
501,394 |
680,471 |
Note. — The commerce between the United States and Hawaii and- Porto Rico, respectively, is not included in the statements of the foreign trade of the United States after June 30, 1900, but after this date the trade of Hawaii and, after July 1, 1901, of Porto Rico with foreign countries is included in the statement of the foreign commerce of the United States.
■12 Months Ending-
|
ec., 1902. |
Dec., 1901. |
Dec., 1902. |
|
$41,116 |
$112,073 |
$475,354 |
|
215,403 |
1,900,253 |
2,057,457 |
|
607,439 |
6,598,488 |
8,230,735 |
|
222,754 |
13,602,111 |
13,852,949 |
|
1,924 |
39,372 |
52,025 |
|
313,412 |
3,563,938 |
4,641,339 |
|
152,966 |
3,664,356 |
2,352,704 |
|
$50 |
$624 |
$3,665 |
|
4o |
222 1,407 4,024 |
3,248 |
|
138 |
||
|
27,176 |
48,912 |
|
|
916 |
55,832 |
23,391 |
C. B. Kennerdel, a former jeweler of W'aynesburg, Pa., died recently, at Dix- mont, of nervous prostration.
Edward J. Hervey, Grand Rapids, iMich., is established in his new quarters at No. 6 Canal St. Extensive improvements have been made in the store, and an entirely new stock has been installed.
H. G. Spafford has left Thorp, Wis., and opened a store in Cadott, Wis.
H. J. Bentley, W^aukon, la., has had a judgment for $482 rendered against him.
L. W. Swem, a jeweler of Iowa Falls, la., has been chosen to act as preacher in the New Christian Church of that place until a regular minister is appointed.
1
The Roy Watch Case Co.,
21-23 Maiden Lane, New York,
are now sKowing tKeir new line of Gold Gases for 1903.
THey surpass all previous efforts and are specially note- wortKy for tKe originality of design and beauty of finisK.
IF IT’S A
February 4, ino3.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
5,1
★ ★★★★★★★★★★★
★
★
★
★
★
★
★
Headquarters
For
Watches
OMEGA,
HAMILTON,
ELGIN and WALTHAM MOVEMENTS
and
SOLID GOLD and GOLD FILLED CASES
of all
RELIABLE MAKES.
ESTABLISHED 1863.
Cross & Beguelin,
17 Maiden Lane,
New York.
★ ★★ ★★★★★★★★★
★
★
★
★
★
★
★
★
★
|
CROWN CHRONICLES. Every Crown Filled Case that is sold sells another. Don’t look here for a good advertisement of the Crown Filled Case — you’ll see better ones in the pleased faces of Crown wearers ! You will never succeed in persuading the son that some other Filled Case is “just as good” as the father’s “Crown” — unless the son has a screw loose in his thinker. All is 25-year-gold that glitters in the Crown 14k. Filled Case. 20 cents 2 dimes, 20 dimes 2 dollars, 20 dollars 2 eagles, 20 years i Crown lok. Filled Case. PHILADELPHIA WATCH CASE CO., Riverside, N. J. |
54
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903.
MOST COMPACT
AND THINNEST DUST-PROOF
OPEN FACE
GOLD CASE
MADE IN THE WORLD
FOR
AMERICAN MOVEMENTS.
Made in all shapes, engine turned, engraved or plain.
I
Colby Patent, April 24, 1894.
DUBOIS WATCH CASE CO.
EHILE GEISER,
rianufacturer of FINE WATCH SPRINGS. La Chaux-de-ronds, SWITZERIAND.
I ^ Export Xrade-
Specialty of springs with bridlesand American style springs. Specialty of mainsprings for chronometeis and watches of pre- cision. Free and rever.se-movement mainsprings. Mainsprings with concentric expansion.
“Practlcil Course in Adjusting.”
Price $2.50.
All Jobbers or Jewelers’ Circular Publishing Co.
The Diamond Markets.
Antwerp, Jan. 16.^ — The diamond market here is very lively at present. Many foreign buyers are visiting the “Diamant Club” and the offices of the local merchants. The fol- lowing were here during the past two weeks : IMessrs. R. Citroen, Marchand,
Hahn, Sevadjuan, D. Misrahi, Mayer Freres, all of Paris; Mr. Gross, of Vienna; ktr. Ponti, of Milan, and Mr. Schenkeim, of New York. These buyers were all looking for first quality stones, which have been very scarce here for some time. There is a good demand for melee under 200 francs per carat, but most of these goods cost 210 to 215 francs per carat.
Roses are coming into demand again since the new firm. Daverfeld & Co., have made a specialty of them ; the rough for this cut- ting has become cheaper, so that our cut- ters are able to sell their roses 10 to 12 francs per carat under former prices. This and other causes makes business much livelier, and the diamond industry has once more taken on an air of activity. All the workmen are busy, and several old cutters, who. owing to the crisis of last year, were obliged to learn another profession, have re- turned to their old emploj’ment of diamond polishing.
Many new apprentices are coming for- ward, but the organization workmen of the cutters regulate their admittance to the trade in order to prevent an abundance of cut- ters in the future.
A new diamond firm will soon be formed here, of which further particulars will be given in a future letter.
The Chamber of Arbiters for diamonds is now composed of the following: President Ch. Van Antwerpen ; vice-president, J. M. \\'alk : secretary. Chr. Wauters : treasurer. Alb. Delact : arbiters. J. Kryn, Ch. Van .Ant- werpen (manufacturers). G. Antoine, S. Sard and J. Walk (merchants) and Ad. Adler, M. Saks and M. Tom (brokers).
M. Rabinovitch, a diamond broker, will be married shortly to Aliss E. Kossmann.
Amsterd.\m, Jan. 15. — The first half of January ended very satisfactory for the trade, and it is curious to note that, notwith- standing the increase in the price of dia- monds, business was brisk. This proves that everj'one has confidence in the market’s firmness, and understands that increases can occur without changing the general condi- tions of the trade.
The large brilliants of the most precious varieties are the most in demand.
Diamonds exported from Amsterdam to the United States for the quarter ending June 30, 1902, represented a value of about 3,855,000 guilders.
Paris, Jan. 15. — The diamond trade in Paris appears, from the reports of our mer- chants, to be very good. All report brisk trade in every line, chiefly in fine diamonds, in which the demand for first class goods was unusually great. Several merchants are away looking for suitable goods in other diamond markets.
Colored stones, as usual, are in good de- mand. Coral is very popular and prices therefor increase daily, especially for light rose colors.
Maurice L. Powers, of firm of Powers & Mayer, New York, is expected shortly and other Americans are expected here during this and next week.
An important lot of Antwerp roses were bought yesterday by one of the large firms.
London, Jan. 14. — The tendency of the market has not been bad. Several sales in rough goods have been made for the Conti- nent and large shipments have been sent to New York. Trade in polished goods con- tinues to be good with firms of Southamp- ton and Birmingham. Representatives of Indian princes have bought many brilliants and colored stones.
Notwithstanding many rumors of discov- eries of new diamond fields in various coun- tries, diamonds are firmer than ever. These statements have often been exaggerated, and it is certain that the De Beers Co. will for several years regulate the price of dia- monds, so that new increases are antici- pated.
It is rumored that Mr. Chamberlain, at nresent in South Africa, will visit Kimberley in Februarv. and that he will be the guest of the De Beers Co.
The booklet, entitled “A Short Discourse on Trade,” issued recently by the Jewelers’ Circular Pub. Co., received a very favor- able notice in the' issue of Printers’ Ink. Jan. 28. The booklet was quoted almost in its entirety, which shows the favorable im- pression it made upon the editor of that well-known authority on advertising. copy of the booklet will be sent, on applica- tion, to any jewelry manufacturer or job- ber of the United States.
A Customer's Confidence
is a valuable asset in a business where the dealer’s recommendations must largely take the place of buyer’s judgment.
ELGIN WATCHES
create confidence in the dealer who sells them, which must redound to the benefit of his store generally.
See Jobber’s List for prices or write the company.
Everv dealer is invited to send for the Elgin Art Booklet, “Timemakers and Timekeepers,” illustrating the history and development of the watch.
ELGIN NATIONAL WATCH COMPANY,
Factories ELGIN, Illinois, U. S. A. General Offices, 76 Monroe St., Chicago.
NEW YORK OFFICE, ii John Street. SAN FRANCISCO OFFICE, 206 Kearny St.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR— WEEKLY
55
oG
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 190o.
OUR SRRING SELLERS ARE ALL HERE-
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You Make a Mistake If You Buy Any Other Line. WE LEAD, OTHERS FOLLOW.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
57
58
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4, 1903-
D. LISNER & CO. announce the opening of their Spring Im- portations of Paris Novelties. The ^ assortment comprises
the most recent creations in chains, belts, belt buckles sash pins, hat pins and combs. Also a fine selection of coral chains and necklaces in white and pink.
D. LISNER CO.,
12 East 17th St., New York.
Paris Office :
28 Rue d'Hauteville.
Telephone No. 486. I8lh St.
OUR REPRESENTATIVES.
EGEL.
ARTHUR A. SPIEGEL.
1903
BURT GANZ.
The GUSTAVE FOX CO.,
M an\ifacturin^ Jewelers,
MaKera of tHe Standard Patented
B. P. 0. elks Jewelry.
Popxilar TWrovigKoxJt tHe*VJnited States.
14^16 East Fourth St., CIJ^CINMJITI, OHIO.
ORDERED WORK AND JOBBING FOR THE TRADE.
W. B. Dutton & Co., Weatherford, Tex.,
Make an Assignment to H. L. Mosely.
\V'EATHERFORD, Tex., Jan. 28. — W. B. Dut- ton & Co., jewelers of this town, made an assignment late Saturday, naming H. L. Mosely as assignee. The assets of the firm are given nominally as $6,200, while the liabilities are said to be $4,500.
Among the creditors of the firm are : !Mer- chants and Farmers’ National Bank, $1,200; St. Louis Clock & Silverware Co., $65: C. G. Alford & Co., $397 ; Queen City Ring Co., $105; Morgan & Hawley, $205; Houston Optical Co., $104; Bauman-Massa Jewelry Co., $757 ; LeNain Optical Co., $87 ; Jacob Strauss & Sons, $450; M. S. Benedict Mfg. Co., $100; ^Missouri Glass Co., $118; Lake Bros. & Co., $80 ; A. L. Silverton, $73 ; Leon- ard Krower .$67 ; Jos. Bennett & Co., $122 ; Morris Vogel & Bro., $131 ; Simmons Hard- ware Co., $100; Jacob Strauss & Sons, $450, and H. L. Mosel}', attorney’s fees, $150.
Illness and Business Troubles Cause C. E. Fultz to Commit Suicide.
Youngstown, O., Jan. 28. — After making deliberate preparations to end his life by asph}-xiation, Col. C. E. Fultz, of Canton, O., turned on the gas in his room, in this place, last night, and was found dead there this morning. Col. Fultz was a well-known resident of Canton, and was formerly fore- man in the balance department of the Hampden Watch Co., Canton.
Mr, Fultz took a hose from a gas stove, and tying it firm in his mouth, turned on the gas, dying from asphyxiation a short time later. He left a note of farewell, as follows: “For the past few years I have
known that I am threatened with both in- sanity and paralysis, and the business troubles that I have had for the past few months have sent me at breakneck speed, and I feel that I can stand it no longer.’’
New Rochelle Jeweler Exonerated From Charge Made by Customer.
New Rochelle, N. Y., Jan. 28. — Harry P. Kane, a former jeweler of this town, who, as was told recently in The Circular- Weekly, was arrested on the complaint of Corry Walz, on the charge of appropriating a ring, was vindicated by the Grand Jury last week, and discharged from custody.
Kane was sold out by the Sheriff last De- cember, and testified that, while it was true he had received the ring from the complain- ant, it was among the property which came into the Sheriff’s possession, and when the keys were turned over to him again the ring was missing.
Warren W. Livingston Files Voluntary Petition in Bankruptcy. Binghamton, N. Y., Jan. 28. — Warren W. Livingston, a watch repairer and jeweler of this city, filed a voluntary petition in bank- ruptcy last week in the United States Court.
.•\ccording to the schedules filed with the petition he has liabilities at $5,205.06 and assets of hut $7.90. The case has been re- ferred to Referee in Bankrupt}- R. A. Gun- nison. Attorney F. Newell Gilbert repre- sents the petitioner.
J. T. Fields. Caruthersville, Mo., recent- ly suffered a small loss by fire.
February 4, 1903.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
59
Man Arrested at Lebanon, Pa., Believed
To Have Robbed Many Jewelry Stores.
Lebaxox, Pa., Jan. 29.— Some of the jew- elry found in the possession of John Lock- ley, alias Joseph Snyder, arrested in this city last week, has been identified by Henry W. Reiff, a jeweler of Lederachville, Pa., whose place of business was robbed some time ago. Mr. Reiff sent two of his clerks to this city and they identified a ring, a set of gold shirt studs and other goods as his property. A warrant was sworn out against Lockley, charging him with the Reiff rob- bery, and he will be tried in the Mont- gomery County Court on that charge.
Chief of Police Zimmerman is of the opinion that Lockley was connected with nu- merous robberies of jewelry stores through- out the country. He has received letters from a number of towns making inquiries about Lockley and his goods, the latest coming from South Bend, Ind., where a jewelry store was recently robbed.
Lockley was arrested here for carrying concealed weapons.
Parkersburg, la.. Jeweler Files a Volun- tary Petition in Bankruptcy.
Parkersburg, la., Jan. 28. — William Mil- ler, a jeweler of this place, was last week declared a bankrupt after filing a volun- tary petition in bankruptcy in the United States Court.
The schedules filed with the petition show- liabilities of $5,670.51 and assets of $3,100. According to these schedules. Miller’s debts cover a period of several years. He owes $50 for back taxes, $150 for rent and a small amount to former clerks. The re- mainder of the liabilities are divided be- tween creditors in New York, Chicago, Par- kersburg and Dubuque. The assets are said to consist of stock valued at about $2,500 and accounts due aggregating $600.
His case has been referred to Referee in Bankruptcy Hoxie, and a meeting of the creditors will soon be called to elect a trus- tee for the estate.
New Law A-ffecting Pawnbrokers Intro- duced in New York Assembly.
Albany, N. Y., Jan. 28. — Among the bills now under consideration by the Assembly of interest to the jew-elry trade was one in- troduced recently by Mr. Mclnerney to amend the laws relating to pawnbrokers.
The bill, which is referred to the Judici- ary Committee, seeks to reduce the license fee from $500 to $'250 in cities and to re- duce the rate of interest in which the pawn- broker is allowed to charge from 3 to 1E> per cent, per month for the first six months and from 2 to 1 per cent, for each succeed- ing month on loans not exceeding $100, and on loans for more than $100 to reduce the charge from 2 to 1 per cent, for the first six months and from 1 to ¥2 per cent, for each succeeding month.
S. C. Coyle, formerly of Confluence, Pa., has removed to Duquesne. S. C. New comer will continue the business in Con- fluence.
E. Grodner, a recent graduate in horology from Musser’s College, Berlin, Germany, has just taken charge of the watchmaking department of Pirosh & Simmons’s estab- lishment, York, Pa.
The Giant of Collar Buttons
IN QUALITY IN SALES
One Million Five Hundred Thousand Krementz One-Piece Collar Buttons made and sold within the last year
Because of thdr highest quality, best
CONSTRUCTION, GIVING THE MOST WEAR, AND GREATEST COMFORT and their IRON-CLAD GUARANTEE.
To verify this we invite the trade to read “The Story •! m Collar Button, with Illustrations,” which may be had FREE for the asking, and to try the experiment suggested on page 5 of that booklet.
Extract from " Printers’ Ink,* Nov. 23, 1898.
The Little Schoolmaster now sug- gests, to every pupil in his class, to send a two-cent stamp to Krementz & Co., 49 Chestnut Street, Newark, N. J., and ask to be favored with a copy of their leaflet, “The Story of a Collar Button ’* Afterward, if any pupil will send to Printers' Ink another leaflet, new or old, that is half as good as this one, or that ap- proaches it in excellence, the de- serving student will be rewarded with one of Printers' sou venir spoons as an acknowledgment of his discovery and contribution. “The Story of a Collar Button ’’ is the best piece of advertisement construction that has come to Printers' attention in the year of our Lord 1898.
Should you wish to ntillM* this booklet to increase your collar button business, wm will, on receipt of your order, print your card upon and send yon a quantity of tben.
Krementz One-Piece Collar Buttons ere follows, ON BACKS I
Patent sustained by United States Supreme Court-
Quality and Construction have made our
reputation.
All Krementz Collar Buttons are Manufactured by
KREMENTZ & CO.,
in their Factory,
49 Chestnut Street,
PARKS BROS. & ROGERS,
20 Maiden L^ne, New York. NEWARK, N. J.
Selling Agenta to Jobbing Trad*.
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THE JEWELERS’ CIRCE EAR— \VEEKLY.
Fehr.ir’ry 4.
Annual Meeting.
Jewelers Association and Board of Trade Elects Directors and Officers.
The annual meeting of the Jewelers As- sociation'and Board of Trade of New York was held Thursday, at :30 p. in the rooms of the association, 170 Broadway. New York. There were 32 members pres- ent, and after calling the meeting to order. President .\lford read his report for the year, as follows :
PRESIDEXT ALFORD’S REPORT.
To inaugurate a system and method that shall be as nearly perfect as possible, is the aim of every successful business man. be he merchant or manu- facturer. Failing to do this, in these progressive days, he would soon be relegated to the rear.
.An organization of business men. for business men, niust meet the requirements made upon it, as otherwise it would -ease to be of positive value to its membership. Both in theory and practice the officers and directors of the Jewelers -Association and Board of Trade have but one obiect in view; namely, to make it the very best organization of its kind.
.As a commercial agency for imparting informa- tion, we unhesitatatingly claim that there is none better. Our reports, authentic, reliable and complete in every detail, give the kind of information that every merchant or manufacturer should have in the conduct of his business, and the cost to mem- bers less than that of any other reliable agencv.
The high standard that we have reached in our collection department for prompt and systematic work, entitles it to the loyal support of our entire membership.
Speaking of loyalty to our organization, I trust that I will be pardoned when I say that during the t\\ o years in which the honor and pleasure have been mine to be its president, that I know whereof I speak, when I say that the value of loyalty and hearty co-operation cannot be over- estimated.
Briefly, two illustrations;
A dealer in -Alabama announced to his creditors in -April last that he was unable to meet his obli- gations. While he had previously enjoyed a good reputation, his statements were such as required close investigation, the result of which was that the creditors had agreed to accept 33% oer cent.
PRESIDEXT-ELECT HIR.AM BLISS.
as the best settlement possible; but before the set- tlement was completed, we obtained some addi- tional information by which we compelled a settle- ment of 40 per cent, net cash and cost and ex- penses paid by the debtor. The creditors had given their claims to us, to do as we thought best.
Diamonds Colored Stones Pearls
Loose
and
Mounted.
A very complete stock of mounted dia- monds, containing Rings, Brooches, Studs, Scarf Pins, Sleeve Buttons and Lockets, from the moderate-priced up to and including the very finest pieces. Selections sent on request.
Hayden W. Wheeler & Co.,
TWO MAIDEN LANE, N. V.
Telephone, 8 Cortlandt.
LONDON, 50 HOLBORN VIADUCT.
' W e had the power, we exercised it, and needless to say the creditors were more than pleased to receive the additional dividend.
\ ery recently a dealer owing upwards of $30,0(1(1 found himself financially embarrassed. Individual action in this case would undoubtedly have re- sulted in throwing the debtor into bankruptcy, the probable result of which would have been a possi- ; ble dividend of 25 per cent. Prompt and con- certed action on our part enabled us to get prac- tically all of the claims against the debtor with full power, and now the probable result is that creditors will realize in full. In this connection permit me to recall to you a resolution adopted by the board of directors on March 13, 1902, as follows;
“Resolved, That the members be requested to refrain from signing any paper of compromise or settlement or extension presented to them by a dealer, unless said paper bear the certificate of this corporation that the debtor has filed with the corporation a full statement of his or their affairs, showing names of creditors, the amount owing each, assets and liabilities, etc., or that proper in- vestigation has been made of his or their affairs.
“Resolved, That a copy of this resolution be sent to each member of the corporation, to which shall be attached an agreement that the member signing same will comply with the request of the board of directors, asking that same shall be signed and returned to the secretary.”
Compliance with this resolution means so much, that every member should hasten to place his claim with us whenever an unfortunate debtor tells his tale of woe, or when a would-be swindler tries to take his creditors “into camp.”
Xow a word about your directors and commit- tees. Faithfully and conscientiously they have worked for the upbuilding of the organization. Is it not fair that they should know from the mem- bership that their good work is appreciated?
Your finance committee have under consideration at this time certain plans which, when completed, will be of positive value to the members.
Efficiency in this office, as well as in the branch offices in Chicago and Providence, is the watch- word which has been, and will be, maintained.
It is a pleasure to me to state that every em- ploye seems to take a personal interest in his or her work.
The report of the secretary is a comprehensive one, and its recommendations, if followed, will tend to broaden and increase the usefulness of the Jewelers -Association and Board of Trade.
In the treasury we have a comfortable surplus and a “fighting fund,” which may be called upon by any member for the investigation and prosecu- tion of dishonest and fraudulent failures. See detailed report which will be made at this meeting.
To my associates in the directory during my two years’ office, my hearty thanks for their unfailing courtesy and kindly consideration. May I ask for my successor the same courtesy and support that has been given me.
The report of Secretary Safford was then presented and read, as follows :
SECRET-ARY S-AFFORD’S REPORT.
I submit for your consideration, the following report for the year ending Dec. 31, 1902;
Last May we moved to our present offices. With sufficient room and additional help, very material progress has been made in the handling and com- piling of our reports and records, and in the pro- duction of our reference book.
We have revised and written during the year 18,456 reports, as against 17,456 the previous year.
We have issued 41,421 reports to members in answer to special inquiries.
Comparison shows members furnish informa- tion to our reporters more freely and fully than heretofore, which results in improvement in the quality and value of our reports. If all members will come to feel a personal interest in the work of the Board, better results still will follow.
Experience shows the closer the members get to the Board, the more they help themselves.
In a recent case of failure investigation shows that debtor was duplicating largely on certain lines of goods, to members who had not previously sold him. If, in making their inquiry members had stated that they had first order, that goods ordered were principally watches or diamonds, etc., it would have started inquiry which might have resulted in preventing heavy losses. I would sug- gest that either through making more inquiries or some other manner members keep the Board ad- vised as to whom they sell. It happens frequently that in cases of failure we do not know whom of our members to notify as those interested have never made an inquiry or in any other way notified
Februarj' 4. 19o:5.
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
us that they are interested, and our first knowledge comes when the list of creditors is filed, perhaps weeks after.
In our collection department, results obtained have been very satisfactory.
We have handled 4,0GS claims as against 3,890 for the previous year.
Of these we have collected 2,709, as against 2,494 in the previous year, being 66% per cent, of the number, as against 65 per cent, the previous year.
The percentage of the amount collected on all claims handled, including bankruptcies, was 56%, as against 59% last year.
Through our system of collecting by drafts or demands from our office, we last year collected for members 472 claims, amounting to $22,746.72, with- out fee or expense to them.
This in addition to several cases of bankruptcy or compromise, in which, through sufficient control, we were in a position to obtain net settlement.
Our facilities in. our collection department arc being constantly improved, and as our organiza- tion is becoming better known, we find that we can command the services of the best commercial law- yers for our business.
This department should receive a more liberal support even than in the past, for the following reasons: For the benefit of our reports we should know when a party becomes too slow, and through a series of claims as received from members, we first learn this and are put upon investigation, thus perhaps warning those who otherwise would sell the last few bills before the failure. Again, the majority of our attorneys, on whom we must de- pend for reports, receive no compensation other than the fees on claims sent them for collection. They spend their time willingly in investigating and reporting, and through doing so should be in the best position to collect, if necessary, and as encouragement for their services in reporting, they should receive all the collections of all our mem- bers in their locality.
PROVIDENCE OFFICE.
In June we remodeled our Providence office, moving into offices in the Union Trust Co.’s new building, which are better suited to our uses; em- ployed a new manager and additional office help, and as fast as possible our files of reports there are to include all the eastern and middle States in addition to the regular files already kept there.
Elxtensions and compromises should only be granted after proper investigations. Resolutions passed by the board of directors last March have had a beneficial effect in preventing to a certain extent, injudicious extensions and compromises. The object in view when the resolution was adopted, was the prevention of unwise or hasty action of which no record- was afterwards ac- cessible to creditors, and to throw certain safe- guards around such cases. As the great majority of our membership agreed to act in future on the recommendation of the Board, it necessarily re- sults that to-day no extension or compromise can be obtained until the conditions of this resolution are complied with.
The suggestion that naturally follows is that after compliance with the requirements of this resolu- tion, we have only the debtor’s statement of his affairs without either investigation or corrobor- ation, on which to act.
If our Board is strong enough, and with our members working together, we should be, should we not require that through some means to be adopted, at the expense of the debtors, so apply- ing, a full examination of their affairs be made? Members agreeing to act thereafter in accordance with the recommendation of the Board.
Aamitting the honesty of debtors, at such a time, human nature is such that naturally they con-
A. POINTLESS OPEN SETTING OF UNUSUAL MERIT, PRO- TECTING THE GEM FROM LOSS OK BREAKAGE, BESIDES GREATLY INCREASING ITS BRILLIANCY AND BEAUTY.
SCHRADER-WITTSTEIN CO., MFC. JEWELERS, Est. 1863.
NEW YORK. 21-23 MAIDEN LANE. ^ ^ CHICAGO. 103 STATE STREET.
OR.DER. THKOVGH YOVR JOBBER OR DIRECT. WRITE FOR PRICE LISTS.
SECVRITY
THE
SVCCESSrVL
THE
CLOSED.
aG&o.
AUTOMATIC
OPEN.
PATENTED
IN THE UNITED STATES AND FOREIGN COUNTRIES.
U.S. PATENT NS. 676.640 JUNE 18-1901.
IT LOCnS ITSELF AUTOMATICALLY WHEN YOU CLOSE THE PIN AND CANNOT WOBH LOOSE UNTIL YOU OPEN IT.
BIPPART, GRISCOM & OSBORN,
NEWARK, N. J.
Sole Manufacturers, cos. MARSHALL AND HALSEY 5T5..
J EWE LHY& Silverware Cases
PAPER BOXES. TRAYS. CHESTS.
329-33S BROADWAY BUFFALO, N. Y.
Lstiiaates Samples oi\ applicatioii*
THis is tHe House of very good taste,
"WHo forward tHeir orders witH neatness and Haste. If you Have a call for goods you Have not.
Drop tHem a line, ten to one tHey Have g'ot Just wHat is wanted, as tHey’ re up to snuff:
THe wide-awaKe firm of
IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF
DIAMONDS, WATCHES, JEWELRY,
9, II. 13 MAIDEN LANE, lOO STATE ST.,
NEW YORK. ALBANY.
62
THE JEWELERS' CIRCULAR-WEEKLY.
February 4. 190:j.
S. HEDGES & CO.,
IMPORTERS OF
Diamonds, other Precious Stones and Pearis.
DIAMOND JEWELRY.
1 70 Broadway, ”°”*BV.L'SrG"'' New York.
26 Holborn Viaduct, London.
John F.
Saunders,
Cutter and Importer of
DIAMONDS
AND OTHER
PRECIOUS STONES
FINE PEARLS A SPECIALTY.
68 Nassau St., cor. John St., ®“‘Room i6 NEW YORK.
CHARLES L. POWER. ROBT. B. ALLAN
CHARLES L. POWER & CO.,
CUTTERS AND IMPORTERS OF
Diamonds, Rubies, Pearis, Emeralds, Sapphires, 170 Broadway, 2 Maiden Lane,
NEW YORK.
SMITH & NORTH,
IMPORTERS OF
DIAMONDS.
DEALERS IN
AMERICAN WATCHES AND FINE JEWELRY.
14 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK.
MALLIET & MAXWELL,
Diamond €uttcr$,
14 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK.
LONDON, 50 Holborn Viaduct. AMSTERDAM, 2 Tulpstraat.
S. COHN. HERMAN ABRAHAM
S. COHIM & CO.,
IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS OF
DIAMONDS,
9 11 A 13 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK.
AMSTERDAM. 2 TULP STRAAT
sider their side of the case first. We find that when a statement is made for the purpose of ob- taining credit, assets look differently from what they do when valued for the purposes of a settle- ment or extension.
In one particular case where the extension had been asked for without security, investigation re- sulted in obtaining a better arrangement in the in- terest of creditors, as to time, and in addition se- curity was also obtained.
In several cases where an offer of settlement has been made, investigation has resulted in ob- taining from 10 per cent, to 100 per cent, more than at first offered. It is true that such re- sults have only been obtained by combined effort, amounting to sufficient control of the claims of creditors, so that no result could be obtained with- out our consent.
While our bankruptcy law is not perfect, one principal defect in obtaining proper results from it, lies in want of unanimity on the part of cred- itors who best by combination can preserve their rights and obtain nearer justice, than under the trust deed of Texas and Missouri; the chattel mortgage followed by assignment in Michigan, judgment notes of Pennsylvania and Ohio, con- fession of judgment in Xew York, etc.
-\s a rule a dishonest debtor does not fear his creditors acting ind.vidually, as by various pro- cesses their objections can be overcome, but when he meets them as a body, a different aspect is pre- sented. It is seldom that an individual creditor is willing to incur the expense necessary to prose- cution even if other creditors would stand aside and take no action. As in bankruptcy the ma- jority rules, when such a debtor finds himself up against such a majority, it is evident that his road to a settlement is less easy than otherwise.
It was with a view of always combining the mu- tual interests of creditors that -4rticle 7 of by-laws was adopted. Experience has shown the wisdom of this article, although at the time of its adoption, objection was made that it might infringe upon the right of individual action.
The obligation laid on members to place their claims iv.th the Board has been observed by the great majority, however, with the result that in nearly every case in bankruptcy during the past year, better dividends have been obtained than would have been obtained otherwise (in several cases without expense to members), simply be- cause we have had sufficient control in number and amount of claims to elect -a trustee who would work under our service, in the interest of the creditors.
It is a well known fact that a failing debtor will furnish a list of his creditors to some friendly attorney in advance, who at once writes or wires creditors for their claims, for the purpose of con- trolling the election of trustee, frequently prom- ising to make no charge for services, and many creditors, alas, fall into the trap and send their claims, which are voted in the debtor’s interest.
Other creditors, thinking to save attorneys’ fees, send their claims to the referee to file, who, “for the munificent compensation of $10 and one per cent, on dividends, per case, is expected to act as guardian ad litem for perhaps 40 or 50 creditors.”
In a recent article I find a case wherein the debtor had borne such a reputation for honesty that creditors thought it unnecessary to act. One creditor, however, investigated and found evidence that debtor had paid no bills for at least 30 days, appropriating sales to his own use, had given fictitious notes to relatives about a week before failure, and placed himself in a fair way to re- sume comfortably after bankruptcy proceedings. They induced other creditors to join them, de- manded a thorough investigation, and as a result debtor withdrew the fictitious claims, stating that “he was mistaken as he did not think any creditor had interest enough to spend any money fighting him.”
In this case the creditors also had a represent- ative present at the sale of the stock, who bid it up to a fair price, at which it was even then bought by debtor's' wife, with the result of a fair divi- dend to creditors.
With all our growth and success as a -Board, I "believe that we are still at the beginning of what we may become, and what we shall ultimately be depends very largely upon the support given to and the confidence shown in the Board, by its members.
On motion, the report was referred to the board pf directors, to act upon the recom- mendations contained therein. ,\11 those present were unanimous in their apprecia- tion of the work done bj- Mr. SafTord in the
February 4. I'JOJ.
THE JEWELERS’ LTRCL'LAR-WEEXLY.
G:}
past year, and throughout the meeting various expressions were heard concerning
ESTATE OF JOHN C.
MOUNT.
ADDISON W. WOODUUl.a9o'
the success and the effect of his labor for the organization.
The following were then elected Directors for the ensuing year: New York — C. G.
Alford, of C. G. Alford & Co. ; H. A. Bliss, of Gorham Mfg. Co.; O. G. Fessenden, of Hayden W. Wheeler & Co.; Simon Fink, of Fink, Bodenheimer & Co. ; Wm. T. Gough, of Carter, Howe & Co.; Alfred Krower, of Albert Lorsch & Co. ; F. H. Carter, of Car- ter, Elcox & Co. ; Samuel H. Cevy, of C. & M. Kahn & Co. ; A. K. Sloan, of Sloan & Co. ; Geo. W. Street, of Geo. O. Street & Sons ; Seth E. Thomas, of the Seth Thomas Clock Co.; Chas. E. Wood, of C. F. Wood & Co. ; Ceo. Wormser, of the Julius King Optical Co. Chicago — Benj. Allen, of
Benj. Allen & Co.; Grove Sackett, of the Wm. C. Gilbert Clock Co.; A. C. Sercomb, of the International Silver Co. New Eng- land— Geo. H. Cahoone, of Geo. H. Ca- hoone & Co.; Wm. A. Copeland, of Martin, Copeland & Co.; Geo. K. Webster, of the Webster Co.
Following the election of the directors came the election of officers of the associa- tion for 1903. For president, the name of Hiram A. Bliss, of the Gorham Manufac- turing Co., was suggested, and he was unan- imously elected. After his election, Mr. Bliss made a short address to the members of the association, in which he expressed his thanks and appreciation for the honor conferred upon him, as follows :
Rii-iMARKS OF PRESIDENT-ELECT BLISS.
I appreciate the honor of the office and the work to be done, having faithfully performed the work devolving upon me as one of the directors and member of the finance committee for the past four years. I have found the duties pleasant and agreeable, and the united action on the part of those with whom I have been associated has made those duties exceedingly pleasant.
Although I have been connected with several institutions, I have never found a pleasanter or more agreeable body of men to work with, without any dissension, working together with one aim, the success and prosperity of this institution. Many times unpleasantness is necessary; the du- ties devolving upon the directors are not always pleasant. You have to lay aside your personal feel- ings and inclinations and work for the one good of this organization. Some people will not understand you, but at the same time you act with one aim,
and if you see the right — and the managers and
officers of this association cannot help but see
the right, with your board of directors, who are
men of business ability and whose judgment we would not question. Any way, you show your con- fidence in electing such a board, and the elections are always unanimous, because the nominating committee has your confidence, and when you elect them to office I am happy to say that you spport them, which is very important. Loyalty in this institution is something that means its whole foun- dation and strength. If in any part you withdraw your support, just so much strength is taken away from your organization. If you stand by your officers, as you have done in almost every instance, your successes are bound to bring great reward; you are bound to go forward and to make this organization what you intend it shall be, the lead- ing organization of its character. Now, in accept- ing this office I have the support of every member of the organization, and having that I shall have the support and counsel of the directors. -
I did not intend to make any great speech here at this time. I appreciate the fact of being your president, and I assure you of my great interest in this organization, and also of the duties devolving upon me, having been quite intimate with my predecessors, and realizing the high standard to which they have elevated the office, and the amount of work and attention and the careful consider- ation they have given it, and alike their steadfast- ness as to the future of this institution.
I thank you for this honor, and will endeavor to fill the office and perform the duties to the best
MOUNT 6 WOODHULL,
Formerly with late firm of RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS,
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(14
THE JEWELERS’ CIRCELAR-W’EEKLY.
February 4. 1!)03.
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of my ability and in every instance perform them impartially.
Oliver G. Fessenden, of Hayden W. Wheeler & Co., was then elected first vice- president, and Alfred Krower, of Albert Lorsch & Co., second vice-president. The nominating committee, elected to serve for the coming j’ear, was as follows : Leopold
Stern, Gustave F. Veith, Geo. E. Fahys, Wm. I Rosenfeld, Walter T. Thompson, Chas. C. Champenois and Fred. W. Lewis.
In addition to the election of officers, con- siderable time was given to the discussion and voting on amendments to the by-laws, and finally those relating to sections two and three of Article IV, and three and four of Article V, and two of Article \TI were adopted.
Section two of Article IV provides that the finance committee shall consist of four members, and that the arbitration, auditing and membership committees shall be ap- pointed by the president from the board of directors, and shall be subject to the ap- proval of the board. This section also provides that the president shall be a mem- ber cx-ofUcio of all committees, and that the finance and auditing committees shall hold one regular meeting each month, and one special meeting at the call of the chairman of the said committee.
Section three of Article IV provides that the salary of the secretary and treasurer shall be fixed by the finance committee, with the approval of the hoard of directors.
Section three of Article V provides that the secretary of the association shall, in addition to his other duties, make and keep a true record of all the meetings of all the committees.
Section four of Article V, which relates to the duties of the treasurer, provides that in addition to his other duties, he shall collect all dues and assessments and all other moneys due to the corporation, and that all disbursements shall be made by him, acting by himself, or through another, selected by him and approved by the board of directors. In the absence of the treas- urer, checks shall be signed by the presi- dent, and countersigned by the secretary.
Section two of Article VII states that money may be used bj' the corporation for investigating failures, as well as prosecuting such cases.
Proposed amendments relating to sec- tions one and four of Article IV were laid on the table for future consideration.
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