BANCROFT LIBRARY

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THE LIBRARY

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THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

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CRATER LAKE

Nattionad Pa^rk

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I UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION

N AT IONAL PARK.

Reflections stand out distinctly in water that gleams as though glazed by the sun

Looking "Over the Top'

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An Appreciation o i

("rater Lake National Park

By WINSTON CHURCHILL, Author of The Crisis," "Richard Carvel," "The Crossing," etc.

Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration

T IS not so man> years ago that I left San Francisco with a case of rods, bound foi Crater Lake in Oregon. What I had heard about the place had filled me with awe and expectation, tempered by a little skepticism. 1 was personally conducted by patriotic and hos- pitable Oregonians who met me in sight of the fountains of Klamath, put me in a motor car and sped me northward through great forests and across wide prairies which once, not long since, had been an almost inaccessible wilderness. The immensity of the extinct volcano whither we were bound, that in prehistoric times had strewn the entire countryside with powdered stone, was hard to grasp.

It was July. We climbed the wooded slopes to the snows, forged through the melting drifts to the very lip of the crater and suddenly looked down upon a scene celebrated in Indian myth, and unique in all America. Some thousand feet below us lay a bottomless crystal lake, six miles across dotted with black volcanic islands. My delight in the grandeur of this view, it must be confessed, was heightened by the knowledge that the lake was in- habited by large rainbow trout which would rise to the fly. After leaving our bags in one of the comfortable tents which the government provides, and eat- ing a hurried lunch in the big dining room, we took our rods and started down the trail. It is quite safe, but new in the experience of a sportsman from the East; and I took the snow slopes gingerly, put to shame by a twelve-year-old daughter of Oregon who romped down ahead of me, careless of the precipice below. And when at last we were afloat, one recalled the Indian legend that he who attempts to swim in this water is never heard of again. The boat was gliding over nothing. The water was as clear as air. Leaning dizzily over the side of the boat, we saw the walls of the crater going down and down into the bowels of the earth, and rainbow trout gliding below us, apparently, in a medium like air. Above us the walls seemed to reach to the sky itself. But presently, when we had begun to fish, the clouds gathered and shut out the sky, in the midst of the summer afternoon darkness set in, thunder rolled and lightning played. It was a scene comparable only to something imagined by Dante in his Inferno.

The rain pelted down, the lake grew white but the fish rose. Trout after trout took the flies, and when the sky cleared our arms were tired from play- ing them. The sun was setting. I made one last cast, near a bleak island, with a brown hackle. It was followed by that indescribable sensation of pure joy when a great fish gurgles on the surface, when the fisherman feels the first frantic tug and hears the singing of the reel. My rod weighed four ounces, and the trout at least eight pounds. He leaped, and leaped again. Twilight came on. For half an hour I played him, reeling him up to the boat only to see him rush away again: it became a question of staying down all night in the crater or leaving him, since at night we could not have traced the trail. Reluctantly I left him. For when I tried to drown him by towing he snapped the leader and was free.

We had all the fish we cared to carry up the steep slope. But many times since I have thought of that trout, and I have never abandoned my intention to go back to Crater Lake some day and get him.

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To the American People:

Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America.

Secretary of the Interior

Crater Lake National Park

IRATER LAKE National

Park is in southwestern Oregon, on the crest of the Cascade Range, sixty miles north of the California line, midway between San Francisco and Portland. It contains 249 square miles. The elevation varies from 5,000 to 9,000 feet above sea level. The Park is a broad and timbered plateau sur- mounted by numerous volcanic peaks, among them Scott Peak, Timber Crater, Desert Cone, Red Cone, Crater Peak and Union Peak. Crater Lake, weird and mysterious, lies in their midst near the center of the Park, and is, as its name implies, a lake in the ex- tinct crater of a volcano. It was not discovered by white men until 1853, and today is recognized as one of the greatest of scenic and most striking of geologic spectacles.

All of our great national play- grounds have their distinctive beauties; each is different in great measure in the sublimity and attractiveness of its natural grandeur, but Crater Lake stands alone in this: that all likeness to any familiar landscape here ceases.

Other lands have their crater lakes Italy, India and Hawaii and there are some craters in this country that contain miniature lakes; but there is only one really great caldera of this

kind in the world only one immense basin apparently formed through the complete melting by intense heat of the entire core of a great volcano, and the falling in and utter disappearance through subterranean caverns of its massive bulk.

That perpetual desolation the nightmare of a Dante should follow such a cataclysm would be expected; that aeons of time and the mystical workings of Nature have transformed the devastation to a dream-picture, will be a continual boon to the sightseer.

The titanic convulsion that formed this remarkable beauty-spot no human eye witnessed. Geologists have con- cluded that ages ago, in the great chain of volcanic mountain peaks which to- day extends from Washington to Cali- fornia— among them Mt. Rainier, Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. Jefferson, Three Sisters, Mt. McLoughlin, Mt. Shasta and Lassen Peak there tow- ered one, which has been called Mount Mazama, that may have topped the tallest of its fellows. Judging from the pitch of the remnants of its outer slopes, scientists conclude with reasonable cer- tainty that, if reconstructed, its snow- clad peak would rise from seven to eight thousand feet above its broken rim. Mazama stands today an un- crowned king, shorn of its diadem of

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The Phantom Ship, which disappears illusively with shif tings of light and shadow

burning gold and glittering silver, yet holding within its heart a treasure the rarest in the world a beautiful lake, the deepest of all lakes, with waters the bluest of all blue waters. And this is Crater Lake!

Mount Mazama if reconstructed

Crater Lake is almost circular, vary- ing from five to six miles in diameter. Its known depth is 2,000 feet and it is believed to be the deepest body of fresh water in the world. Its surface is 6,177 feet above the sea. It has no inlet or outlet, being fed by springs and winter snows; its water escapes by un- derground channels, reappearing as springs in the Klamath region, a few miles away. It is completely girdled by precipitous cliffs and steep talus slopes that fall sharply downward from its rim 2,000 to 600 feet to the water's edge. Closely encircling it rise many high peaks, notably Llao Rock, The Watchman, and Cloud Cap; also Gla- cier, Garfield and Vidae Peaks.

The Discovery of Crater Lake

Surrounded by canyons, ravines and pinnacled rocks, and belted by a wil- derness of boulder-strewn forests, the region for years was inaccessible, and unexpored except by the more venture- some who were attracted by stories of the Indians of this mystery lake in its fantastic setting. Yet its discovery was accidental; it occurred in 1853 while an exploring party was searching in the Cascade Mountains for the famous Lost Cabin Mine. The mine they did not find, nor has it ever been found, but instead they came upon this beautiful lake in the crater.

"Suddenly we came in sight of water," writes J. W. Hillman, the leader of the party. "We were much surprised, as we did not expect to see any lakes, and did not know but that we had come in sight of and close to Klamath Lake. Not till my mule stopped within a few feet of the rim of the lake did I look down, and if I had been riding a blind mule I firmly believe I would have ridden over the edge to death."

A dispute arose over the choice of a name, the party dividing between Mysterious Lake and Deep Blue Lake.

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Motorboating and fishing in the heart of an extinct volcano is novel sport

The advocates of Deep Blue Lake won the vote, but in 1 869 a visiting party renamed it Crater Lake, and this by natural right became its title.

First View of Crater Lake and Its Brilliant Coloring

The first sight of Crater Lake is well- nigh bewildering. Unless looked into from the rim it is invisible. Wonder- ment at the height and steepness of its encircling cliffs succeeds the first as- tonishment; admiration of the loveli- ness of its coloring next enthralls the beholder in the sequence of impres- sions. Its unique beauty lies in no small measure in its coloring, the bril- liance of which if reproduced in paint- ing or print would seem exaggerated and impossible to those who have not seen the reality. Nowhere else is there such an azure. One feels that a glass of its water would show blue as if stained with cobalt, but it is clear as crystal and as pure. The deeper parts are a brilliant ultramarine, shad- ing to turquoise in the shallower reaches, and to light jade green in the few indented coves around the shore. A hundred feet down the glaze of a plate is plainly discernible. The sur-

roundings help the brilliance of the blue; the rocks are of metallic hues; the peaks of the rim are often snow cov- ered; the lava gray of the steep scarred walls is mottled and splotched with bright yellows and reds, markings left by volcanic action long ago, and always there is the dark green of the pines and firs and shrubs that grow on these declivities wherever they find root-hold. The waters are usually placid, gleaming as though glazed by the sun, and in this mirror of Nature the reflections stand out with astound- ing distinctness.

Of this feature of Crater Lake, Joa- quin Miller wrote: "Fancy a sea of sapphire set about by a compact circle of the grizzly rock of Yosemite. It is great, great; but it takes you days to see how great. It lies 2,000 feet under you, and as it reflects its walls so per- fectly that you cannot tell the wall from the reflection, in the intensely blue water, you have a continuous un- broken circular wall of twenty-four miles to contemplate at a glance, all of which lies 2,000 feet, and seems to lie 4.000 feet, below. Yet so bright, so intensely blue is the lake that it seems at times, from some points of view, to lift right in your face."

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Wizard Island A crater within a crater

The Legend of the Indians

According to the legend of the Kla- maths and Modocs the mystic land of Gaywas was the domain of the power- ful demon Llao, whose throne was on Llao Rock. His warriors were gigan- tic crawfish which swarmed the lake, and with their great claws seized all who dared to appear on the cliffs above. The spirit chieftain Skell, of the neighboring Klamath Marshes, waged bitter war against Llao, but Skell eventually was captured, and his heart, torn from his body, was given by Llao to his minions who used it as a ball, hurling it from cliff to cliff with their claws.

One of Skell's watchful eagles sud- denly swooped down and caught the heart in mid-air, passing it to a fleet- footed antelope, which carried it to safety. Then miraculously the body of Skell grew about his heart, and he again waged war against his enemy. He captured Llao and upon the highest cliff cut his body into quarters, which he cast into ths lake where they were eaten by Llao's monsters under the be- lief that it was Skell's body. But when Llao's head was thrown in they recog- nized it and would not eat it. So Llao's head still lies in the lake and white men

call it Wizard Island, one of the small islands that rise from its depths today. The Indians, even today, look upon the face of Crater Lake with uneasiness and

awe.

Wizard Island

The geological history of Wizard Island is fully as remarkable as that ascribed to it by the Indian legend. It was built up from the floor of Mount Mazama's crater by expiring volcanic forces, and is today a perfectly pre- served cinder zone rising 800 feet above the surface of the lake. It lies close to the cliffs on the western shore of the lake, and its ap- pearance, when looked down upon from the rim, is one of the curious sights that fill the beholder with wonder. Soundings show that several other peaks of like nature rise from great depths in the lake but do not come within some hundred feet of the surface, forming a submerged range of miniature crater mountains. A trail has been built to the edge of Wizard Island's crater, which is 500 feet across the top and 100 feet deep; a trail also leads to the bottom. The western half of Wizard Island is a rough lava bed, and in one of its hollows is a dark pool known as the Witch's Cauldron. Thus Wiz- ard Island is doubly remarkable, being in fact a crater within a crater and containing a pool within a lake. Skell Channel sep- arates Wizard Island from the mainland. The lake's superb reflections are seen to fine ad- vantage from the island.

The Phantom Ship

The picturesque Phantom Ship lies near

the southern shore of the lake a few rods

from the base of Dutton Cliff. It is a high

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craggy up-thrust of curiously sculptured lava; a mass of bronze and yellow spires and tur- rets showing almost a goblin fantasy of con- struction. At a distance its outline resembles a sailing ship hence its name. The illusion at dusk or in the moonlight is striking. Ap- proaching it in certain slants of light the Phantom Ship, when seen against the cor- rugated background of Dutton Cliff, sud- denly disappears and is exceedingly difficult to again "pick up" a phantom ship indeed, in which the Ancient Mariner might well delight.

Trail from Crater Lake Lodge to Eagle Cove

A new trail of very easy grade has been constructed, leading from the rim at Crater Lake Lodge to the water at Eagle Cove, a descent of about 1,000 feet and a little over a mile in distance. Horses and burros can be used if desired, but the low grading of the trail makes the walk delightful, the acces- sibility of the lake adding greatly to the enjoyment of visitors. This charming walk, zigzagging in easy stretches down the heavily timbered slope, contrasts strangely with the belief expressed by the party of explorers who discovered the lake, that "its shore-line would never be touched by the foot of man." But when you consider that an eighteen-foot launch crossing the lake is harder to "spot" than an aeroplane flying 3,000 feet over- head, and that a rowboat is undiscernible. some idea may be had of the beliefs and disbeliefs that Crater Lake readily suggests. Unusual Fishing; Motorboats and Rowboat* The cold and crystal-clear water of Crater Lake originally contained no fish of any kind except a species of small crawfish.

In 1888, Mr. William G. Steel, now U. S. Commissioner for the Park, was the first to

stock the waters with trout, but no fish were seen in the lake for twelve years; then a few were taken, one measuring 30 inches. Since then trout of the gamiest have been caught in ever-increasing numbers; preferably by fly- casting from vantage points along the shore, and also by trolling with spoon from row- boats. Fish weighing five and ten pounds are frequently caught.

In Crater Lake, five fish per person a day, and in all other waters in the park twenty fish per person, is the limit. There is good fishing in Anna Creek below Dewie Falls, as well as in neighboring streams. The fishing season is from July 1st to September 30th, unless otherwise ordered by the Superintend- ent of the Park. No license is required.

Launch Trips A Cruise Around the Lake At Eagle Cove, motorboats and rowloats are provided for boating or fishing parties; guides are also available for those who desire them.

Trips to Wizard Island are made by launch on regular schedules daily, and special trips can be arranged for, by the hour, skirting the Phantom Ship and nearby cliffs.

The striking features of the crater's rim can best be seen by making a circuit of the lake along its edge. It reveals in a thousand changes the twisted and contorted lava for- mations, and is a moving picture of twenty- five miles of nature's wierdest film. This close-up view of the aftermath of Mazama will never be forgotten.

From Eagle Cove the launch heads east, rounding Eagle Point, with Garfield Peak towering high overhead; then crosses Chaski Bay, where Vidae Cliff rises 2,000 feet above, lust beyond, Dutton Cliff looks from its dizzv height on the Phantom Ship, the launch

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ircling shores

skirting its sculptured sides \vith its maze of lava rigging. Kerr Notch, just beyond Dut- ton Cliff, on Danger Bay, is the lowest point on the crater rim, 600 feet above the water. Sentinel Rock is the next peak outstanding on the wall above, and then follows Cloud Cap, 2,070 feet above the shore. Skell Head, suggesting Indian legends, appears on the southern point of Grotto Cove, where is seen The Wineglass, high on its northern cliff, a strange rock-slide shaped like a huge goblet and tinted as with winestain. Round Top, the Palisades and Rugged Crest are passed along the northeast shore, and below Rugged Crest is Cleetwood Cove, where the last great lava flow occurred.

But what strange sights have been un- folded in this half-circuit of the lake! Where can their like be seen? Contorted, twisted

shapes the deformity of nature in its every

phase. Dark caverns piercing flame- scorched walls that over-hang in jagged masses streaked with charred reds and sul- phur-yellows; gorges packed with winter snows that gleam like diamonds in jet set- tings snows unmelted since their fall, with

solid ice foundations, for sunshine has never reached their rock-bound depths. And all around them is the bright green glaze of needled pine boughs, drooping and waving in the breeze from trunks that slant at every

angle the growth of centuries. Surely

Nature, to sooth Mazama's wrath, has beauti- fied its scars with dressings most sublime.

Rounding Pumice Point the launch glides into Steel Bay and then skirts Llao Rock, one of the most striking summits on the rim. Just north of Llao Rock is a mile of desolation, The Devil's Backbone, carved and ridged and lacerated as though by the whips of demons.

Eagles soar and pelicans flap from rock to rock, and over all shines the brilliant sum- mer sunshine from an azure sky that is re- flected and thrown back from Crater Lake's profound depths in an ultra-blue that chal- lenges the heavens. Approaching Skell Channel, Glacier Peak looms high above the rim and The Watchman rears over Wizard Island's cinder cone surrounded by its arm- shaped lava flows and rising like an octopus from the waters. The high-pitched roofs and gray walls of Crater Lake Lodge appear as a dot above, as the launch heads for Eagle Cove, and one of the most singular and spec- tacular of boat trips is ended.

The Rim Road A Skyline Boulevard The Rim Road entirely encircles Crater Lake a distance of 35 miles, winding around the base of the chain of peaks and crags that hedge its outer slopes; it is unique among skyline drives. From Cloud Cap on the east- ern shore to The Watchman on the western side of the lake, a distance of 2 I miles, it is in good condition. The remaining 1 4 miles connecting Cloud Cap with The Watchman, around the northern end of the lake, is being improved and surfaced. This work is pro- gressing rapidly and the expectation is that the road will be open, except possibly for short periods, the present year. In this cir- cular tour the vistas of the lake are every- where superb and the surrounding mountain views are seen to excellent advantage.

The Pinnacles Sand Creek Canyon The Pinnacles are reached by following the Rim Road from Crater Lake Lodge for about ten miles, thence three miles down Sand Creek Canycn. Here stand a jumble of giant monoliths crowding the canyon sides, carved by the winds and the rains of centuries into fan-

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Crater Lake Lodge stands near the rim and overlooking the Lake.

tastic forms. There are hundreds of these sharp pointed figures, some of them over 100 feet in height, rising like the wraiths of a forest turned to stone. By moonlight their gray ghost-like appearance borders on the uncanny.

Dewie Canyon and Garden of the Gods From Anna Spring Camp, five miles south of Crater Lake Lodge, the road leads east- ward a few miles along the northern wall of Dewie Canyon, a timbered gorge cut out of the solid rock, its sides a silent testimony of its violent formation. At the head of the canyon are Dewie Falls, foaming cataracts which give the canyon its name, Dewie being an Indian word signifying falling waters. And here lies another Garden of the Gods, with its picturesque crags and towering pines, and meadows set about with paint brush, lupines and anemones.

Anna Creek Canyon

From twelve to fifteen miles south of The Lodge, on the Fort Klamath Road, the drive for eight miles overlooks Anna Creek Can- yon, with many fine views three or four hun- dred feet into its depths. The canyon dis- plays the curious columns and other gro- tesque forms characteristic of this entire volcanic region, though each of these picture- gorges is distinctive in some new shuffling of Ma/ama's magic deck.

Easy Mountaineering

Crater Lake National Park offers the mountain climber a novel field and many heights, some of which can be reached with- out great exertion; good horse trails and roads available for autos lead to several prominent summits. Union Peak and Scott Peak are perhaps the most remarkable.

Union Peak, 7,698 feet above sea level, is about ten miles southwest of Crater Lake Lodge, and can be reached by saddle animals to within a quarter of a mile of its conical top. The last 700 feet is very steep, but the footing is secure. Unlike most of the mountains in this region, Union Peak is not a cinder cone, but the solid core of an ancient volcano. The view embraces the entire park. The trail to Bald Top extends beyond Union Peak three miles, but it is very rough and steep. Scott Peak, 8,938 feet, is to the east, twenty-two miles from Crater Lake Lodge, and rises 700 feet above any other point in the vicinity of Crater Lake It is reached by auto to Cloud Cap, thence two miles by foot trail. There is an excellent trail to the top of Garfield Peak, 8,060 feet, one and a quarter miles east of The Lodge. It can be made by foot or saddle animal. From its summit, which overlooks the lake, can be seen the Klamath Lake region to the south and the green valley of the Wood River. The lofty snow-capped peaks of Mt. McLoughlin and Mt. Shasta loom beyond. Mount Thiel- son, 9, I 78 feet, and Diamond Lake are seen to the north of Crater Lake, a region which it is proposed to include in a Greater Crater Lake National Park.

The Watchman, five miles north of The Lodge, and Glacier Peak, 8,156 feet, six miles north and the highest peak on the rim, are on the east side of the lake, and each is reached by auto and easy foot trails. Vidae Cliff, on the rim, rises three miles east of The Lodge, and has a good horse trail to the top, distance seven miles.

A complete list of the principal points of interest, with heights and distances, is shown on another page.

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Horse trails lead to mountain heights and to many vantage points upon the rim.

Wild Animals and Game

The Park abounds in black and brown bear, blacktail deer, pine marten, porcupine; also grouse, pheasants and numerous varie- ties of birds. Deer and bear are more plenti- ful each year and are becoming quite tame. Firearms in the Park afe not permitted. Cougar, lynx, timber wolves and coyotes are seen occasionally and are being exterminated by the ranger force.

Scenic Approaches to Crater Lake by Medford and by Klamath Falls

The approaches to Crater Lake National Park are from the railroad stations of Med- ford, Ore., and Klamath Falls, Ore. The dis- tance from Medford by auto is 81 miles; from Klamath Falls 62 miles, and these ap- proaches constitute no little charm of the Crater Lake trip, for each drive traverses a country of much diversity in scenic attrac- tiveness.

Crater Lake affords a most interesting side trip for tourists to or from California.

THE MEDFORD APPROACH: From

Medford, the chief city of the Rogue River Valley, the auto road leads northeastward through miles of orchard country. Gradu- ally the highway climbs out of the valley into the wooded foothills and as it leads up the gorge of the Rogue River the scenery takes on a wilder aspect. Among anglers the fast- flowing Rogue is noted for its hard-fighting steelhead and rainbow trout. The river here runs like a thief and twists like a rogue, but its waters are white with rapids, the name being derived from its ruddy bed and given it by those French Canadian voyageurs the Riviere Rouge, or red river.

Higher up the canyon, in the deepest wil- derness, thunder the great Falls of the Rogue

a'nd farther up its course the river is spanned by a natural bridge of lava, a hundred feet across. At Rogue-Elk, thirty-six miles from Medford, lunch is served, and the drive is resumed, passing through the greatest forest of yellow pine in the world, with many firs, yews, larches and cedars. Climbing into the Cascades the view covers far-reaching vistas of densely wooded heights. As the road leaves the Rogue River it turns eastward up the canyon of Castle Creek and crosses the western boundary of the Park. Ahead is a cluster of sloping peaks, rising 1,000 feet above the general level of the range, and as the road winds upward to the crest below like a glittering jewel in a sunken setting lies Crater Lake.

THE KLAMATH FALLS APPROACH:

Klamath Falls is the center of the "Klamath Country" and is situated on the banks of the Link River, about a mile from Upper Klam- ath Lake. It is in a region full of the charm of mountain and forest, much of it still a

wilderness a fitting gateway for Crater

Lake National Park. Its marshes are breed- ing-grounds for wild fowl; its clear streams are full of fighting trout; in its forests roam deer, bear and cougars. Crystal River, Cherry Creek, Wood River, Odessa Creek, Williamson River, Spring Creek and Sprague River are a few of the trout streams, well known to anglers, that enter the upper lake. Pelican Bay is a favorite trolling ground.

The auto road leads for eigtheen miles along the shores of Upper Klamath Lake, the home of the white pelican. The lake is twenty-five miles in length and ten miles at its greatest width. The snow-capped peak of Mount McLoughlin rises 6,000 feet above its western shore, which shows tier upon tier

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Mount McLaughlin rears to the west on the Medford road,, and rises above the shore of

Upper Klamath Lake on the Klamath Falls road. The Falls of the Rogue River on the Medford road. Mount Shasta looms to the south on the Klamath Falls road.

of heavily timbered ridges that hem the hori- zon. Passing through the Klamath Indian Agency at the head of the lake, the road five miles further runs through Fort Klamath, both lying in a broad valley, surrounded by wooded foothills. As the grade ascends, the view looking back is a revelation in land- scape loveliness. Winding upward through heavier timber it follows Anna Creek Canyon to Anna Springs Camp at the Park head- quarters, thence five miles to Crater Lake Lodge on the rim.

Accommodations Within the Park

CRATER LAKE LODGE: This attractive hotel constructed mainly of gray stone stands in the pines directly on the southeastern rim overlooking the lake, 1,000 feet above the water. It contains sixty-four rooms and af- fords comfortable accommodations and good service. It has ample bathing facilities and fire protection. Around the large open fire- place in its lobby visitors each evening re- count their day's experiences, and anglers unreel their tales of the fish they caught, and of the fish that got away.

Tents are provided, on request, for those who prefer them, meals being taken at The Lodge. There are many inviting spots on flower dotted meadows around the lodge, where beneath the pines on shaded slopes are snow- banks, with bright snow-flowers peeping through their melting edges.

ANNA SPRING CAMP: At the park head- quarters, at Anna Spring, five miles south of Crater Lake Lodge, a good camp is main- tained. The spring gushes from the moun- tainside at the head of Anna Creek. There is a general store here (with branch at The Lodge) where necessary supplies are obtainable.

Season

The 1919 season of Crater Lake National Pai extends from July 1st to September 30th.

Park Administration

Crater Lake National Park is under the juris- diction of the Director, Na'ional Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Cra Lake, Ore.

How to Reach Crater Lake National Park

Crater Lake National Park is connected automobile stages of the Crater Lake Company with the railroad stations at Medford, Ore., a Klamath Falls, Ore.

During the Park season, round-trip excursi tickets at reduced fares are sold at many stations in California and Oregon to Crater Lake National Park as a destination. Passengers wishing to visit the Park as a side-trip in connection with journeys to other destinations will find stop-over privileges available on through round-trip and one-way tickets, and may, if they choose, enter the Park via Medford and leave via Klama Falls, or the reverse.

Storage charges on baggage will be waived at railroad statiors at Medford, Klamath Falls or Weed, or at Portland, or at Sacramento, Oak- land Pier, San Francisco or Los Angeles, for actual length of time consumed by passengers in making the Crater Lake trip.

Automobile-Stage Rates

The Crater Lake Co. will operate regular daily auto- mobile service from Medford, and Klamath Falls. Oregon, to and from Crater Lake National Park at the following rates: One Round

Way Trip

Medford to Crater Lake $ 8.50 $15.00

Klamath Falls to Crater Lake 8.00 12.50

Medford to Klamath Falls, via Crater Lake. 15.00

Klamath Falls to Medford. via Crater Lake. 15.00 .

W

my ion

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Rates at Crater Lake Lodge

Board and lodging (lodging in tents), one person:

Per day ................................... $ 3.50

Per week ................................... 20.00

Board and lodging, two or more persons in one tent Per day ............................... each

Per week .............................. each

3.00 17.50 1.00 .75

Lodging in tents: One person, per night.

Two or more persons in one tent, per night, each

Board and lodging (lodging in hotel), one person:

Per day 4.00

Per week 22.50

Board and lodging, two or more persons in one room:

Per day each 3.50

Per week each 20.00

Lodging in hotel: One person, per night 1.50

Two or more persons in one room, per night, each 1 .25

In hotel rooms, with hot and cold water:

Board and lodging, one person: Per day 4.50

Per week 25.00

Board and lodging, two or more persons in room:

Per day each 4.00

Per week each 22.50

Lodging: One person, per night 2.00

Two or more persons in one room, per

night each 1.75

Baths (extra) to house guests. 25 cents; others. .50

Fires in rooms (extra) 25

Single meals 1 .00

Rates at Anna Spring Tent Camp

Board and lodging, each person: Per day $ 2.50

Per week 15.00

Meals: Breakfast, lunch or dinner 75

Lodging: One person, per night 1 .00

Children under 10 years, half rates at lodge or camp.

Automobile Rates

Fare between Anna Spring Camp and Crater Lake

Lodge: One way $ .50

Round Trip 1 .00

Special trips will be made when parties of four or more are made up, as follows:

Transportation, per mile, within the park 10

To Anna Creek Canyon, including Dewie Canyon and Garden of the Gods. 24-mile trip, for each person 2.00

Trip around the Lake on rim road, side-trip to the

Pinnacles, and picnic lunch, for each person. . . 5.00

The Sunset Drive, from Crater Lake Lodge to sum- mit of road at Watchman, at sunset. 10-mile

trip, for each person 1 .00

Rates for Horses, Burros and Pack Animals

Saddle horses, pack animals and burros (when fur- nished): Per hour $ .50

Per day 3.00

Service of guide, with horse: Per hour 1 .00

Per day 6.00

Launches and Rowboats Launch Trips:

Wizard Island and return, on regular schedule, launches leaving lake shore at 9 a. m.. I 1 a. m..

2 p. m., and 5 p. m., per person $ .50

Wizard Island and return, special trip, per person 1 .00 Around Wizard Island and Phantom Ship and

return (about 15 miles), per person 2.00

Around the Lake, per person 2.50

Rowboats: Per hour 50

Per day 2.50

With boat puller, per hour 50

With detachable motor, per hour 50

Per day 5.00

U. S. Government Publications

The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C. at prices given. Remittances should be made by money order or in cash: Geological History of Crater Lake, by J. S. Diller, 32

pages. 28 illustrations. 10 cents. Forests of Crater Lake National Park, by J. F. Pernot.

40 pages. 26 illustrations. 20 cents. Panoramic view of Crater Lake National Park; I6H by

18 inches. 25 cents. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260

pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine National

Parks. Pamphlet edition. 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents.

The following may be obtained from the Director of the United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C. at price given. Map of Crater Lake National Park; 1 9 by 22 ins.. 10 cents.

The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the

National Park Service. Washington, D. C.. or by personal application to the office of the superin tendent of the park.

Circular of General Information Regarding Crater Lake

National Park. Map showing location of National Parks and National

Monuments and railroad routes them..

U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained

free on application to any consolidated ticket

office ; or apply to the Bureau of Service. National

Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau West- ern Lines 646 Transportation Bldg , Chicago. 111. :

Arizona and New Mexico Rockies

California for the Tourist

Colorado and Utah Rockies

Crater Lake National Park. Oregon

Glacier National Park. Montana

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands

Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas

Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado

Mount Rainier National Park. Washington

Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Michigan. Iowa and Illinois

Pacific Northwest and Alaska

Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona

Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado

Sequoia and General Grant National Par' s, California

Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Montana. Idaho

Yosemite National Park. California

Zion National Monument, Utah

Distances from Crater Lake Lodge by road or trail to principal points of Interest

Distance and Name General Direction

Above Sra Le>el

Be»t Mean, of Reaching

Remark.

Miles

Feet

LlaoRock. 8 north....

8.046

Auto, horse-

Point from which the

back, and

legendary Llao't

foot

body wa. thrown

into lake. All-day

Diamond

trip.

Lake 18 north..

Horseback..

Good fishing. Near

view of Mt. Theil-

Devil'.

.on.

Backbone 6.5 north

Auto

Fine view of forma-

tion and coloring of

Glacier

Glacier Peak.

Peak 6 north... TheWatch-

8.156

Auto and foot

Highest point on rim of lake: fine view.

man 5 north. ..

8,025

.do

Easy climb.

Garfield

Foot or hor.e-

Peak 1.25 ea.t...

8.060

back

Ea.y climb.

Vidae Cliff. 3 ea.t

8,135

do

Fine view. E*»y trip

by horse: 7 mile..

Sun Notch. 7ea»t

7.115

Auto and foot

Fine view of Phan-

tom Ship. W.Ik

1 mile. Ea.y trail.

Dutton

Cliff 9.5ea.t...

8.150

...do

Fine view; 7.5 miles

by auto. 2 on foot.

Sentinel

Rock.... I8ea.t...

Auto

Most comprehensive

view from rim.

Cloud Cap. 20 ea.t

...do

Fine drive and view.

Scott'.

Peak 22ea.t

8.839

Auto and fool

2 mile, by trail from

Cloud Cap. High-

Pinnacle.. 15.5 south-

est point in park.

east

A.ito

Grotesque forrha-

Garden of

tion*.

the God.

Dewey

Fall. 5 wuth

Ann*

do

Waterfalkmeadows.

Anna Creek

pretty canyon..

Canyon. 10 to 13.5

south....

.do

Beautiful canyon.

MX) to 400 feet

Union Peak 10.5 wuth-

deep.

we»t

7.698

Auto and fool

Fine view of entire

Wizard I.land.... 3.5 north

6.940

Boat and foot

park. Extinct volcano.

crater in summit.

Trail to top and

Phantom

into crater.

Ship 3ea«t...

do

Grotesque lava- pin- nacled island.

Page thirteen

Springs

Desert \\

j *:<

Crescent ** Bald Crater R.dge 6" 74 it.

Desert Cone 0 eesi it.

O / /- - / 0:

Timber Crater

7360 It.

O Oasis Butte

6685 II.

s!

^"Grouse Hill 7401 It.

vation 6177 feet in 1908 Depth over 2000 feet .•er 1000 feet high

The Watchm 8025 It.

j ^ CRATER LAKE LODGE r"^" * -».

O

Ctttlt Pomt

OJOO It.

^S\ R. R. STA

I I k I \KI.

INATIONAI

PARK

I1, kirk

Shasta

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK

OREGON

Scale

__.__ Boundary _^_ Automobile Roads .. Trails

Page fourteen

The National Parks at a Glance

u

ted

States Railroad Administration

Director General of Railroads

For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices:

West

Austin, Tex 521 Congress Ave.

Beaumont. Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts.

Bremerton, Wash 224 Front St.

Butte, Mont 2 N. Main St.

Chicago, 111 179 W. Jackson St.

Colorado Springs, Colo.,

119 E. Pike's Peak Ave.

Dallas. Tex I 12-1 14 Field St.

Denver. Colo 601 17th St.

Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St.

Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St.

El Paso. Tex. . .Mills and Oregon Sts.

Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St.

Fresno, Cal J and Fresno Sts.

Galveston. Tex. 2 1st and Market Sts.

Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St.

Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave.

Kansas City, Mo.,

Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts.

Lincoln. Neb. . . . Little Rock. Ark Long Beach, Ca' . . Los Angeles, Ca.. Milwaukee. Wis . .

...104 N. 13th St.

202 W. 2d St.

L.A. & S.L. Station

.221 S. Broadway . .99 Wisconsin St.

202 Sixth St.South

Annapolis. Md

54 Maryland Ave.

Atlantic City, N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md. . . B. & O. R. R. Bldg.

Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St.

Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St.

Buffalo. N. Y.. Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio. .1004 Prospect Ave.

Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St.

Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St

Minneapolis, Minn.. **,*. ^.A>... ^..._uu,... Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal. .Pacific Elec. Depot Oklahoma City. Okla.,

131 W. Grand Ave

Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St.

Peoria. HI. .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz..

Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore., 3d and Washington Sts.

Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave.

St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St.

St. Louis, Mo.,

318-328 N. Broadway

East

Detroit, Mich. . 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind . L. Sc N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich . . . . 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. 112-14 English Block

Montreal. Que 238 St. James St.

Newark. N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y . . . . 64 Broadway New York. N. Y . .57 Chambers St.

New York, N. Y 31 W. 32d St.

New York. N. Y I 14 W. 42d St.

South

St. Paul. Minn. .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento, Cal .. ...80 IK Si.

Salt Lake City. Utah.

Main and S. Temple Sta. San Antonio, Tex..

315-17 N. St. Mary's St.

San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway

San Franciso, Cal 50 Post St.

San Jose. Cal. .1st andSan FernandoSla.

Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave.

Shreveport. La.,Milam and Market Sts.

Sioux City. Iowa 510 4th St.

Spokane. Wash..

Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash .. I I I 7-19 Pacific Ave.

Waco. Tex 6th and Franklin Sts.

Whittier. Cal .. . .L. A. fit S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave.

Philadelphia. Pa.. Pittsburgh. Pa . . . .

Reading. Pa

Rochester. N. Y . Syracuse. N. Y

Toledo, Ohio

Washington. D. C Williamsport. Pa . . Wilmington. Del. .

.1539 Chestnut St. . . .Arcade Building . ...16 N. Fifth St. 20 State St.

.335S. Warren St. .320 Madison Ave.

. 1229 F St. N. W.

.4th and Pine Sts. ...905 Market St.

Asheville. N. C 14 S. Polk Square Lexington. Ky Union Station Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Louisville. Ky. . .4th and Market Sta. Augusta Ga 81 1 Broad St. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. tiirmineham Ala J 1st Ave KM i_- T* t-n HI \* c*.

Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola Fla San Carlos Hotel

Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. 13 19 Washington St. Winslon-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St.

nents address Bureau of Service, ,ines, 646 Transportation Bldg ,

c r- ' V^iL i tj i Memphis, lenn 60 N. Main bt. (Charleston, b. (-....Charleston Hotel ** ,-| *i <; i Q a I Charlotte. N. C 22 S. Tryon St. JJobile. Ala ' ', R°ytl St; Chattanooga. Tenn. .817 Market St. Montgomery. Ala. . .. Exchange Hotel Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Nashville Tenn.. Independent Life Bldg. Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. New Orleans. La Si. Charles Hotel Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St Norfolk Va Monticello Hotel

For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monu National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western L Chicago.

P a £ e fifteen

SEASON 1919

The «?ho*t-lik^ pinnacles in Sand Creek Canyon. A forest of these giant monolith* crowd the canyon walls.

ill

GLACIER

Nationa.1 Park

O N A L

E Rl E S

DAWSON PASS An intimate view from the summit of the Pass is obtained of the massive walls surrounding th= Two Medicine Valley

An Appreciation of

Glacier National Park

By Mary Roberts Rinehart

Author of "Tenting To-nigbt," "Through Glacier Park, " K", and Other Stories.

Written expressly for the United States Railroad Administration

F you are normal and philosophical, if you love your country, if you are willing to learn how little you count in the eternal scheme of things, go ride in the Rocky Mountains and save your soul.

There are no "Keep off the Grass" signs in Glacier National Park. It is the wildest part of America. If the Government had not preserved it, it would have preserved itself but you and I would not have seen it. It is perhaps the most unique of all our parks, as it is undoubtedly the most magnificent. Seen from an automobile or a horse, Glacier National Park is a good place to visit.

Here the Rocky Mountains run northwest and southeast, and in their glacier- carved basins are great spaces; cool shadowy depths in which lie blue lakes; moun- tain-sides threaded with white, where, from some hidden lake or glacier far above, the overflow falls a thousand feet or more, and over all the great silence of the Rockies Here nerves that have been tightened for years slowly relax.

Here is the last home of a vanishing race the Blackfeet Indians. Here is the last stand of the Rocky Mountain sheep and the Rocky Mountain goat; here are elk, deer, black and grizzly bears, and mountain lions. Here are trails that follow the old game trails along the mountain side; here are meadows of June roses, forget- me-not, larkspur, and Indian paintbrush growing beside glaciers, snowfields and trails of a beauty to make you gasp.

Here and there a trail leads through a snowfield; the hot sun seems to make no impression on these glacier-like patches. Flowers grow at their very borders, striped squirrels and whistling marmots run about, quite fearless, or sit up and watch the passing of horses and riders so close they can almost be touched.

The call of the mountains is a real call. Throw off the impedimenta of civiliza- tion. Go out to the West and ride the mountain trails. Throw out your chest and breathe look across green valleys to wild peaks where mountain sheep stand im- passive on the edge of space. Then the mountains will get you. You will go back. The call is a real call.

I have tr veled a great deal of Europe. The Alps have never held this lure for me. Perhaps it is because these mountains are my own in my own country. Cities call I have heard them. But there is no voice in all the world so insistent to me as the wordless call of these mountains. I shall go back. Those who go once always hope to go back. The lure of the great free spaces is in their blood.

Page t bree

To the American People:

Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America.

Secretary of the Interior

Glacier National Park

]EYOND the golden grain fields of the Dakotas, past the big ranches of the cattle country and adjoining the Blackfeet Indian Reservation in north- western Montana, is a segment of the Rocky Mountains abutting the inter- national boundary for thirty-five miles and extending fifty miles south to the railroad. The bold, grey perpendicular peak with the oblong summit is Chief Mountain sacred to the Indians, because according to the legend of the old Medi- cine Men, this was "where the Great Spirit lived when he made the world."

Within this area of fifteen hundred square miles are more rugged mountain peaks, more glaciers, more picturesque lakes, more streams and waterfalls than exist anywhere else in America in so con- densed an area.

This is Glacier National Park.

Longer than the Red Man's legends or memory serve, this tract of eroded, snow- capped peaks, icy ravines, blue lakes, trout-inhabited streams and alpine mead- ows was the playground of the Blackfeet and Piegan Indians. Here they found elk, moose, deer, antelope, buffalo, bear, big-horn sheep and the long-haired moun- tain goat. The lakes and streams sup-

plied all the fish they required, while the sarvisberries and huckleberries were abundant on the sunny mountain slopes.

Today this is your playground. The United States Government purchased it from the Indians so that you might enjoy its attractions. It became a National Park May II, 1910.

National Parks have been created by Congress for various reasons: To reserve for the people the wonders of natural phenomena; to provide free access to the waters of medicinal springs; to pre- serve the interesting architecture of a prehistoric race, or to furnish vacation playgrounds located where Nature has been unusually generous in assembling her scenic gems.

Glacier National Park is in the last category. Above everything else it is a summer playground for the people, ap- pealing to that human emotion so aptly expressed by Jack London in the title of his interesting book, "The Call of the Wild."

Of course the glaciers are the head- liners for Glacier National Park. They are a great attraction for the average tourist, who knows that glaciers are un- common things and reminiscent of the earlier mighty earth processes. Here one

Page J our

©F.H.Kiter ICEBERG LAKE

Huge chunk* of ice break off the glacier, and in July and August Iceberg Lake is a miniature Polar Sea

K. E. Marble

Walking and hoi

TOURISTS "HIT THE TRAIL" ie trails radiate in every direction from Many Glacier

not only sees them in action, but also sees what they have done in ages past.

Contains Three-Score Glaciers

In Glacier Park may be seen, in all the majesty of their rock- bound settings, the remnants of the massive ice sheets that played a big part in shaping the surface of the earth millions of years ago.

Not one or two, but dozens of them are clinging to the sides of the scarred and serrated ridges of the Continental Divide, where they spread out like a string of pearls glistening in the sun.

On summer days these glaciers are fur- rowed with thousands of threads of water innumerable little rills which run and sparkle over their surfaces like fine threads of quicksilver. Finally they join the larger streams which go plunging over the moisture-laden, flower-strewn, grassy slopes into the milky-blue waters of the lakes hundreds of feet below.

A glacier has three characteristics: It is ice, the ice must be moving, and it must have moved sufficiently to have formed a moraine, consisting of rocks, earth and debris which the glacier has pushed ahead of it or thrown to each side in its forward movement. The im- mobility of a glacier is only apparent. It is living. It moves and advances with-

Page six

^y

5

ted

out ceasing. Winter is the season of re- pose for the glaciers. In the spring, all their life and activity return. The warm- er the weather, the more activity they develop.

Interest in the glaciers soon leads enthusiasm over the scenic effects create as a result of the prehistoric glacial ac- tion, and nowhere in America is this so strikingly displayed. In fact, it is the result of this glacial action of the past combined with one other unusual geologi- cal formation, known as the Lewis Over- thrust Fault, that makes Glacier National Park the beauty spot it is today.

The Great Uplift of the Lewis Overthrust

Geologists teach that an overthrust fault is a displacement of earth strata whereby one layer of rock overlaps an- other. It is the result of pressures far below the surface of the earth.

As the earth's crust contracted during the long ages of the past, pressures from within caused a bulging in places, very much as the sides of an orange will bulge when squeezed. This terrific pressure gradually pushed up the rocks and earth and formed the mountain ranges. In a few places the pressure was sufficient to break through the crust. This is what

TWO MEDICINE LAKES The exquisite grouping of mountains around the lakes give this basin a marked individuality

happened in what is now Glacier Na- tional Park. When the earth's crust could stand the pressure no longer, one edge was thrust upward and tumbled for- ward over the other edge; when it settled, the western edge of this break overlapped the eastern edge ten to fifteen miles, and was thousands of feet high, extending along a front of forty miles.

As a result of this upheaval, there are several places in the Park, notably at Chief Mountain, where the oldest stratum of rock is found on top of the mountain and the newest stratum at the bottom. This has been named the Lewis Over- thrust. 1 1 is one of the largest in the world and is of great interest to scientists.

It is interesting to trace the course of the Lewis Overthrust. It practically forms the eastern edge of the Park, and is plainly outlined on the topographic maps issued by the United States Geological Survey. Starting at a point on the rail- road just south of Fielding, it extends in a northerly direction almost to the in- ternational boundary, and in a general way follows a line parallel to the Con- tinental Divide.

The Carving of the Rocks

Later came the glacial period, and the moving out of the great ice sheets which

covered this part of the earth for untold ages. As the vast ice masses moved down the slopes of this precipitous wall, they gouged deep furrows that formed valleys, and cut and chiseled the highly-colored rocks, tearing away the softer parts, and swerving from their courses when they encountered resistance of the harder rock masses.

The Lewis Overthrust Fault gave the glaciers a wonderful opportunity. The grinding and carving by the huge ice masses, followed by erosion during thou- sands of years of exposure to the ele- ments, have created fantastic effects. Much of the exposed rock is very highly colored, red and green mixed with blue- grey. In due course of the slow centu- ries came the change of climate, which brought with it grass, trees, flowers and other vegetation, so that today this re- gion is a veritable symphony of water, rock and foliage. It is in the marvelous grouping and massing of these colorful effects that Glacier Park makes such a strong appeal.

It will be seen, therefore, that this ti- tanic Overthrust fault, which occurred millions of years ago, is the primary rea- son for Glacier National Park today. It is the distinguishing feature that differen- tiates this part of the Rockies from all

Page seven

®F.H.Kisfr TRAIL OVER SWIFTCURRENT PASS

From Swiftcurrent Pass marvelous views are obtained of stupendous granite walls and turquoise blue lake

Page eight

other mountain regions in North America. The result is that the visitor entering Glacier Park finds a land of enormous hollowed basins or cirques, separated from each other by saw-tooth edged walls. In many cases these walls are nearly per- pendicular and rise two to four thousand feet above the floor of the basin. Espe- cially fine examples are to be seen at Cracker Lake, Iceberg Lake, and Ava- lanche Basin.

These glacial cirques are a striking feature of Glacier National Park. They are huge pockets or U-shaped basins that are actually carved out of the rock by the constant grinding of the moving glaciers.

A Mass of Majestic Mountain Peaks

The main range of the Rockies extends north and south through the Park, the Continental Divide being almost in its center, and forming a natural wall which divides the Park into halves.

It is the east side that presents the most stupendous scenic effects. Some idea of the magnitude of this mountain realm is indicated by the number of peaks within its narrow confines. There are 83 named mountains having an altitude of from 7,000 to 10,000 feet, and four ex- ceeding 10,000 feet the highest being Mt. Cleveland, 10,438 feet. They are huddled together as though they tried to crowd each other out of the way in their effort to reach the clouds. From the summit of Swiftcurrent Mountain over forty of these peaks can be counted from one viewpoint.

Irregular in outline, fantastic in shape, and always spectacular, they have one characteristic in common the abruptness with which they rise from the shore of lake or floor of valley. No need here to walk over rolling foothills several miles to reach a mountain. There are no foot- hills; one is close to the mountains all the time. There is opportunity here to get acquainted with these mountains intimately acquainted from the com- fortable cushions of an automobile or the sunny decks of a smooth-running launch. Their lure is as elusive as it is fascinating. Never does one see them twice the same. Under constantly changing atmospheric conditions they vary their tones from light blue to deep purple, from brilliant

red to faint rose, softened by the rich green foliage on the (ower levels.

The upper slopes are above timber line; the lower slopes, and the valleys not oc- cupied by lakes and streams, are crowded with forests, green and inviting. From the front porches of the hotels and chalets magnificent pictures are presented of mountain peaks, snowfields, glaciers, lakes, canyons and forests, grouped and massed in delicate yet bewildering com- binations.

An Amazing Array of Mountain Lakes

The lakes perhaps are the one feature that appeals to more persons than any other phase of Glacier Park's varied at- tractions. Lakes everywhere -long and narrow lakes round and irregular lakes —little blue ponds in mountain pockets, and long silvery ribbons in narrow valleys.

Lake St. Mary, with its stately, cres- cent-shaped mountain frame, almost a mile above the surface, is fed by melting ice and snow from Blackfeet Glacier. 1 1 is the largest lake on the east side, while Lake McDonald is the gem of the west side of the Park. Both lakes are long, narrow and very deep, with mountains rising from their shores. It is on these lakes that one can cruise in comfortable launches, or from a rowboat try his luck with a fly casting rod in the shadows of the pines.

Two Medicine Lake is somewhat smaller, and has both symmetry and dig- nity. The surrounding peaks bathe their red granite summits in the azure sky and their green bases in the soft blue waters.

Grinnell, Josephine, McDermott, Gunsight, Ellen Wilson and Cracker Lakes each has its individual charm, but Iceberg Lake is the most interesting. The warmer the weather the more ice there is in the lake. Iceberg Glacier projects its face into the lake, and day after day dur- ing the summer this ice field crumbles along the front, great chunks breaking off and sliding into the water to float around on the bosom of the lake hun- dreds of them, oftentimes. Flowers and foliage growing along the shores add to the charm of this unique place, where summer and winter meet.

There are many other lakes. The United States Geological Survey has mapped two

P c g t nine

This cone shaped peak stands like

GRINNELL MOUNTAIN sentinel at the entrance to the S\

'iftcurrent and Cataract Valleys

hundred and fifty. From trail and road they peer at one from all sides. They are low in the canyons and high on the moun- tains. They reflect the peaks, trees and rocks in their blue waters during the day, and at evening time absorb the glow of the setting sun, as though trying to dis- pel the night chill from the waters.

\ Million-

(»arden

For profusion and variety: the wild flowers of Glacier Park must share honors with the lakes. In the valleys, along the shores of lakes and streams, on the moun- tain passes, oftentimes on the very edge of snowfields and glaciers, wild flowers add their variegated hues to the green foliage and the harsher colors in the rocks. More than one hundred varieties of wild flowers are native to the Park. Canyon Creek, Cracker Lake, Piegan Pines, Grin- nell Lake, Logan Pass and Granite Park are a few of the places especially noted for plant life.

Below are some of the prominent varie- ties of wild flowers, berries, and grasses seen along the roads and trails:

Indian paint brush, mountain lilies, asters, walking cane, yellow dog-tooth violet, wild hollyhock, clematis, syringa, queen's cup, bluebell, twin flower, star of the morning, lupin, yellow columbine,

blue larkspur and false forget-me-not; huckleberry, pigeonberry and thimble- berry; beargrass, sweetgrass and bearweed.

The Oldest Inhabitants

Creatures of the wild are in evidence at every turn of the road or trail. Black and brown bears are often seen, generally near the chalets and hotels, and occasion- ally will pose for the photographer. There are also "silvertips" or grizzly bears.

The Rocky Mountain goat is perhaps the most interesting of the large wild animals. This sure-footed climber pre- fers the higher altitudes on the mountain slopes, and seldom descends low enough to give the tourist a "close-up." They can be seen moving along the narrow rock ledges and are easily distinguished by their coats of long white hair, which sharply contrast with the rocks.

The big-horn, or Rocky Mountain sheep, is more friendly, also more inquisi- tive. He will occasionally pause in his feeding to gaze at a passing party of tour- ists, apparently quite unafraid, and exhibiting a curious interest in his dis- turbers.

Elk and deer may be seen trotting along the trail, or on the shore of some lake or stream where they come down to drink.

Pane ten

i.ser UPPER ST. MARY LAKE

From the porches of the chalet, a marvelous view is obtained of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain and the embattled peaks at the head of the valley

The small animals, such as porcupines, whistling marmots and mountain or pack rats, are interesting and harmless. The whistling marmot is invariably encoun- tered above timber line, especially on the passes. Large families live in tunnels and caves in rocks. They always have a sen- tinel on watch, and when disturbed by passing tourists, they warn each other by their whistle, which is a splendid imita- tion of a small boy signaling his chum to come out to play.

Where the Fighting Trout Leap High

Several species of mountain trout in- habit most of the lakes and streams. The principal varieties are the cut-throat (otherwise known as the native or black- spotted trout), rainbow, Dolly Varden, eastern brook and Mackinaw trout. The cut-throat and eastern brook are the favor- ites of trout fishermen. They are both very game, very shy, and at times require considerable coaxing, but they strike quickly and are hard fighters. These fish sometimes attain a weight of six pounds.

Mackinaw trout are found only in St. Mary Lake. They have been taken weigh- ing thirty-five pounds; ten to fifteen pound Mackinaw trout are quite common. They are not as good fighters as the smaller vari-

eties, but for excitement make up in weight what they lack in fighting qualities.

The Dolly Varden and rainbow trout are confined to a few lakes and the larger streams, and are not caught as frequently as the other varieties.

Practically all fishing is done by cast- ing with a fly rod, using artificial flies or sometimes salmon eggs for bait.

Home of Blackfeet Indians

The Blackfeet and Piegan Indians have left a lasting impress of their occupation of this region, as the names of many of the mountains, lakes and waterfalls still bear the original Indian names, such as Rising Wolf, Going-to-the-Sun and Almost-a- Dog mountains, Morning Eagle Falls, and Two Medicine Lakes. They also con- tributed to the mysticism and romance of the country by the tales of their early day ceremonies in the walled-in valleys, their hunting exploits on the prairies, and the religious significance they attach to sev- eral of the high peaks.

From the days when the Indians roamed the vast prairies to the east, and their hunting ground extended from the Missouri River on the south to the Sask- atchewan River in Canada this region was known to them as the "Land of Shining Mountains."

Page eleven

MANY GLACIER HOTEL At the end of the auto road is Many Glacier Hotel, the focal point for trips over miles of mountain trails

The Lure of Glacier Park

Glacier National Park has no frivolous sideshows for garrulous trippers, no Coney Island attractions. There are other canyons as deep and other moun- tains as high; but those who have roamed the world with eyes open sincerely say that in no other place they have seen has Nature so condensed her wonders and run riot with such utter abandon; in no other place has she carved and hewn with such unrestrained fancy, and scattered her jewels with so reckless a hand.

Here the Rocky Mountains tumble and froth like a wind-whipped tide, as they careen off to the northwest. This is the fountain head of the Continent, with its triple watershed the beginning of little and big things. Huddled close together are tiny streams, the span of a hand in width, that miles and miles away to the north, south and west, flow as mighty rivers into Hudson Bay, the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean.

Two hundred and fifty lakes in valley, glacial cirque and mountain pocket flash back to the sky the blue and green hues

they borrowed from it. Hundreds of waterfalls cascade from their sources on glacial field or everlasting snow in mighty torrents or milky -white traceries; rain- bows flicker and vanish in the ever- changing play of the waters, while the bright Montana sun does tricks of light and shade on tree and rock.

High up on some gale-swept crag the mountain goat pauses for a moment and plunges from view. Lower down the big- horn sheep treads his sure-footed way; the clownish bear shuffles to his huckle- berry patch; and in the blue of the heav- ens, between mountain peak and sun, the bald eagle sails his rounded course, peer- ing down for the timid creature beneath the leaves or in the shadow of the rocks. And all is as it was thousands of years ago, except for some man-tracks here and there, where the road winds around the base of mountain and over ridge; where the mark of a trail leaves its faint trace on the surface, or the blue smoke curling up from the stone chimney of chalet or hotel indicates that man has appropri- ated it to his uses.

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GLACIER PARK HOTEL The hotel at the Eastern gateway is of unique architecture The Indians call if the "Big Trees Lodge"

Entering at Glacier Park Station

Eastern Gateway

LACIER PARK station, Montana, is the eastern and principal en- trance to the Park. Adjacent to the railroad station is Glacier Park Hotel, the gateway hostelry and starting point for trips farther north. It is a short walk along wide poppy- bordered paths, through the gateway arch to the hotel office. The architecture of this mammoth structure is what might be called the "forestry" type the striking feature being the immense logs of Douglas fir and cedar used as supporting pillars, inside and out. Many of these logs are forty-two feet high and several measure five feet in diameter; they extend from basement to roof.

The building, containing nearly two hundred rooms, is in two large units connected by a long, roofed-over observation room, with large plate glass windows facing the mountains. On one side is Midvale Creek, a pretty little trout stream, and on the other side, within a few hundred yards, is Two Medicine River. From the porches of the hotel can be seen a dozen moun- tains guarding the entrance to the Two Medicine Valley— Mt. Henry, Papoose, Bearhead, Squaw and Basin Mountains being the principal ones. To the east are the broad open plains of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.

From Glacier Park Hotel four attractive auto trips may be made, as the automobile highway starts here. The one-day trip to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets on St. Mary Lake is always popular. This ten-hour ride presents over 100 miles of the main range of the Rockies, a panorama from

Divide Mountain south to Heart Butte. There is an afternoon trip to Two Medicine Lakes and Chalets, and the Cut Bank Canyon trip to Cut Bank Chalets. The five-hour auto tour to Many Glacier brings within the tourist's vision a com- bination of more mountain peaks, lakes, glaciers, and snow-capped summits than can be seen in the same length of time anywhere in this country.

A good trail to Two Medicine Lake goes over Mt. Henry. From the top of this mountain a dozen peaks can be seen and a splendid view ob- tained of the entire Two Medicine Valley, half a mile below.

The Two Medicine Valley

"The-river-where-the-two-medicine-lodges- were-built" is the way the Indians designated the stream that drains the three lakes of the Two Medicine Valley. There are several versions of this legend of the Two Medicine Lodges, but all agree that many years ago there was factional strife in the Blackfeet Tribe and the two con- tending parties each built a medicine lodge on the banks of this river.

Nothing in the Park excels the Two Medicine Valley in beauty of mountain grouping. Three fair-sized lakes in a chain, all at different alti- tudes, form the central stage, while grouped around them are a dozen splendid mountains of which Rising Wolf, with its red granite top 95 1 0 feet in the air, easily is monarch.

The middle lake is reached by the automobile road, ending at the Two Medicine Chalets, artis- tically grouped on the lake shore in the shadow

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of Rising Wolf. At the head of the lake is Mt. Rockwell (9505 feet), flanked on one side by Mt. Helen and Pumpelly's Pillar, and on the other by Mt. Grizzly.

Two Medicine Lake affords fine trout fishing. the favorite spot being at the outlet just below the chalets. Cut-throat and eastern brook trout are abundant in this lake and in Two Medicine River below Trick Falls.

Trick Falls is located two miles from the chalets and the automobiles stop long enough to give passengers an opportunity to walk up the trail a few hundred feet, where a good view is obtainable. Dawson Pass, the summit of Mt. Henry, upper Two Medicine Lake, and the Dry Fork Trail over Mt. Morgan and Cut Bank Pass to the Cut Bank Chalets, are the principal trail trips from Two Medicine Chalets.

In the Cut Bank Canyon

Whichever way one enters the Cut Bank Can- yon. whether down the valley from the summit of Cut Bank Pass, or following the winding auto road up the river, one is impressed by the quiet restfulness of the place. The Cut Bank River has its source in a small glacier near the summit of the Pass. A series of three wide plateaux has enabled the trail-builders to make the descent to the floor of the valley by easy stages. On the upper plateau two tiny blue lakes are seen the first well-defined headwaters of the river.

It is only a few miles from the summit down to the Chalets, the trail passing through many open parks, and crossing the stream several times. There are numerous pools in the bends of the river and the beavers have built dams here and there, making fine hiding places for the wary cut- throat trout, that is a native of this stream.

Cut Bank Chalets are an over-night stop for trail parties moving between Two Medicine and St. Mary. 1 1 is also reached by automobile from Glacier Park 1 lotel.

Above the Chalets a trail forks to the right, and following this will bring one to the Triple Divide, the most interesting peak in the Park.

The Triple Divide

} lere is perhaps the most interesting geological formation in America a three-sided mount, itti from whose summit the waters flow north to Hudson Bay. south to the Gulf of Mexico and west to the Pacific Ocean. It is not imaginary. A walk of about a mile from the place where the trail crosses the pass will bring one to the top of the Triple Divide, and from here the courses of the three tiny streams can be traced from their source for miles and miles down the valley, on their way to three different oceans.

It is literally true that if a person standing on the summit of this three-sided mountain spills a cup of water it wr \ild find its way to three corners of the continent.

Th* St. M.ir> 1 aki's ami the

I merging from the dense timber along the automobile road, one gets the first comprehensive idea of Glacier National Park as the mountains massed at the head of St. Mary Valley suddenly are exposed to view

Here are two narrow, ribbon-like bodies of water the St. Mary Lakes. The upper lake is ten miles long, with the mountains rising ab- ruptly from the shores; at the lower end of this lake are the St. Mary Chalets the fourth group in the chain of places operated by the Hotel Company.

On the south shore of the lake. Red Eagle and Little Chief Mountains project their ship-like prows into the water. On the north shore Single- shot. Goat and Whitefish Mountains expose their red. green and purple hues to the mirror-like surface of the lake. Far up the valley the tilted cone of Fusilade Mountain disputes the right of way to Gunsight Pass, and Reynolds Peak, with its green slopes, is strongly contrasted against the frosted summit of the Continental Divide.

A day's journey from St. Mary Chalets is Red Eagle Lake, celebrated among fishermen for its large cut-throat trout.

At St. Mary Chalets a sturdy launch, capable of carrying one hundred passengers, is waiting. and transfer from the automobiles is made by passengers taking the side trip to Going-to-the- Sun Chalets at the head of the lake. Here, per- haps, the loveliest, single picture in the park in fact, many who are competent to judge, say. in the world is to be seen from the chalet porches.

The Region of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain

If there is one mountain above all others in Glacier National Park whose overpowering per- sonality impresses itself on the memory of the sightseer, it is Going-to-the-Sun. This is partly due to the fact that an excellent view of its classic outlines may be had from all sides.

If one were standing on its summit. 9584 feet above sea level, he would look almost straight down nearly one mile into St. Mary Lake. The unusual name has no connection with the height of the mountain or its imposing cathedral-type architecture. It is an inaccurate translation of an Indian name.

Many years ago. according to the Indian legend, the Sun Father sent his representative. Sour Spirit, to the Piegans and Blackfeet to teach them all the useful arts how to make a tepee, tan the hides of the wolf and elk. from which to manufacture moccasins and clothing, and other useful things. He showed them how to make bows and arrows that would kill the elk. deer and buffalo, and assure them plenty to eat.

Sour Spirit lived with them a long time, but was finally called back to the lodge of his father in the sun. In order that his good work and teachings would not be forgotten, he caused the likeness of his face to be placed on the side of this mountain. It may be seen there today in the form of a great snow field, the outline of which strongly resembles an Indian face with the head dressed in a war bonnet. Ever since that time the Indians have called it "Mah-tah-pee-o- stook-sis-meh-stuk." which means "The moun- tain-with- the-face-of -Sour-Spirit-who-has-gone- back-to-the-sun."

A stop of a few days must be made if one takes the trail trips described below.

Sexton Glacier, hanging high on the mountain side, is in plain view from the deck of the launch. It is a popular side trip from Going-to-the Sun

©F.H.Kiser GOING-TO-THE-SUN MOUNTAIN

The classic outlines of this mountain are revealed from every side. The summit is nearly one mile above the water

P age fifteen

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© R.E. Marble

IN THE MAI Grinnell Glacier. The Garden Wall. Gould Mountain and Josephine Lake «

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REGION water, rock and foliage it has taken Nature millions of years to compose

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The water discharges from a subterranean passage, but during the flood stage it also comes over the top

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Chalets to Sexton Glacier. A very pretty trail follows Baring Creek, and horses may be ridden to the very edge of the ice. West of the chalets is Gunsight Lake. From the foot of this lake it is a short climb to Blackfeet Glacier, the largest, and in many respects the most interesting, of all the glaciers in the Park to explore.

Over Gunsight Pass to Sperry Glacier

At Gunsight Lake the trail starts up the steep slopes of Mt. Jackson toward Gunsight Pass, from the summit of which an expansive view both east and west is unfolded; two thousand feet below is Gunsight Lake, on the east side, and Lake Ellen Wilson, on the west side. Swinging along the shale-rock slopes above Lake Ellen Wilson, and over the Lincoln Divide, the trail descends suddenly into a circular basin to the Sperry Glacier Chalets. Continuing, it again drops down the side of Mt. Edwards to Lake McDonald. It is practically a day's journey from Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Sperry Glacier Chalets, either on foot or with horses, and about a three-hour trip from Sperry to Lake McDonald.

If a trip up to the glacier is planned, it will be necessary to stop at the chalets over night.

Over Piegan Pass to Many Glacier

Another well traveled route from Going-to-the- Sun Chalets is over Piegan Pass trail, which starts directly west, following the lake shore to the north fork of the St. Mary River. Here it swings to the right, and by means of many turns around the forest-covered benches, ascends the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, finally reach- ing the depression in the connecting wall between Cataract and Siyeh mountains, known as Piegan Pass. Here is one of those matchless, incom- parable scenes which words fail to portray. Blackfeet Glacier to the south, its five square miles of snow and ice in line of vision, displays a glistening array of blue, green and pinkish hues, as the sun penetrates crevasse and fissure. This is the trail route to the Many Glacier region.

Lunch boxes are unpacked at Piegan Pines, at the edge of the timber line, below the summit of the pass. In this tiny mountain park of a few acres can at certain seasons be found more than two dozen varieties of flowers.

Descending the north side of the mountain, the trail winds down and around Morning Eagle Falls to Cataract Creek. From here on it is very picturesque, circling along the base of Gould Mountain to Grinnell Lake, and thence along the shore of Josephine Lake and Lake McDermott to Many Glacier Hotel.

The New Logan Pass Trail

During the summer of 1918 a new trail was completed across the Continental Divide, known as Logan Pass Trail. It is intensely scenic, and easy to travel either afoot or on horseback.

Leaving Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, this trail branches to the left four miles out on the Piegan Pass trail and strikes up Reynolds Creek, past the shelf glacier which sprinkles its waters on a narrow fertile bench called the Hanging Gardens, on the east side of Mt. Reynolds, to a little plateau between Pollock and Oberlin Mountains. The summit of the pass and the approaches to

it are literally covered with wild flowers. From the western slope the trail continues along the Garden Wall a high, thin, saw-tooth ridge to Granite Park Chalets.

The Many Glacier Region

Returning now to the automobile highway at St. Mary Chalets, the journey continues along the shores of lower St. Mary Lake and up the Swiftcurrent valley to Many Glacier Hotel.

From the automobile the tourist gets a com- prehensive view of Chief Mountain, Yellow. Appekunny and Altyn Mountains on the right of the road as the Swiftcurrent Valley is entered, while at the left Boulder Ridge, Point Mountain, and Mt. Al'en keep changing their outlines as the auto progresses along the winding road.

The mountains become more spectacular, and their height is magnified, as the valley gradually contracts. The road apparently is approaching a solid stone wall thousands of feet high, and it would appear that no other exit from this narrow valley could possibly be made except by the same route that one enters.

It is, however, due to the number and variety of side trips from this scenic center that the Many Glacier Region has become the principal focal point for trail trips.

Ahead of the tourist are the massive, impen- etrable-looking walls of the Continental Divide. The mountain commanding the center of the picture is Grinnell; to the left of that is Gould Mountain, easily recognized by the wide band of colored rock near the top, and its roof-like for- mation.

High up on the Garden Wall, the thin ridge connecting the two, is Grinnell Glacier. It is a shapely glacier not forbidding and repellant but inviting and friendly. The music of its cataracts calls to the tourists to come and play in its front yard among the flowers, rocks and moss on the terminal moraine.

To the right of Grinnell Mountain is Swift- current Mountain, and in a depression or saddle between these two is Swiftcurrent Pass.

The little Swiss-type log buildings on the right of the road are the Many Glacier Chalets, and crossing the rustic bridge below McDermott Falls, the road swings around a shoulder of rock an offshoot of Mt. Allen ending on the shores of Lake McDermott at Many Glacier Hotel.

From the front porches of this hotel, an in- spiring mountain panorama is spread before the tourist, and those who find the walking and horseback tours too strenuous take a deep de- light in the ever-changing picture to be seen from the hotel itself.

From here trails radiate in several directions and the question for the tourist to decide is which trip to make first. A comparatively short and easy side jaunt is that to Iceberg Lake, a two-hour journey from the hotel.

A Miniature Polar Sea

Iceberg Lake is a miniature Polar sea. This unique body of water makes a vivid impression. The little turquoise lake, covering perhaps 100 acres, is backed up with a head wall 3,000 feet above the surface of the water. It is never free from ice. During the warm days of July and August, huge chunks of ice break off the face of

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the glacier at the head of the lake and these icebergs float around for days before they melt or become sufficiently small to find their way over the falls at the outlet. This is a good place to get a view of mountain goats and big-horn sheep. They are frequently seen working their way along the ledges, feeding on the grass and moss.

Up Canyon Creek to Cracker Lake

In the opposite direction from the hotel is another favorite trip. The Cracker Lake trail follows Canyon Creek to its source in Cracker Lake at the head of the canyon formed by the high walls of Mt. Allen and Siyeh Mountain. The trail is a fascinating one, crossing and re- crossing the turbulent twistings of Canyon Creek. It is well for the tourist to take a fish rod along and try matching his skill against the mountain trout in the stream and lake. The canyon ends abruptly, further progress being blocked by the highly colored perpendicular wall of Siyeh Mountain.

Grinnell Lake and Glacier

Grinnell. Josephine and McDermott form a chain of glacier-fed lakes, the water source being the melted snow and ice of Grinnell Glacier. The trail skirts the edges of the lakes and it is a trip of but a few hours to the upper, or Grinnell Lake. Discharging from the face of Grinnell Glacier, three large cataracts tumble their waters down the steep slope into the lake. The milky appearance of the water indicates it is of glacial origin. The color is due to the fine silt and pulverized rock, the result of movement of the glacier.

Piegan Pass and Morning Eagle Falls

Piegan Pass trail is built along the west side of Mt. Allen, following the contour of the valley, to Grinnell Lake, and crossing a small wooded ridge, continues along Cataract Creek to Morn- ing Eagle Falls. The trip from Many Glacier Hotel to Morning Eagle Falls and return is rec- ommended to those who do not care for the higher altitudes. The trail, by means of switch- backs, makes its way above the falls to the sum- mit of the Pass. From here it follows the shale- rock slopes down to the timber line on Going-to- the-Sun mountain and continues on to St. Mary Lake and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. This is a trip of many marvelous miles of stupendous mountain scenery. From the summit of the Pass. Blackfeet Glacier is seen sparkling in the sunlight backed by the irregular peaks of Jack- son. Almost-a-dog. Citadel and Blackfeet moun- tains.

Over Swiftcurrent Pass

John Muir says: "Few places in the world are more dangerous than home. Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain passes. They kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action."

No one should fail to go over Swif tcurrent Pass. A splendid trail from Many Glacier Hotel wan- ders along the Swiftcurrent River, between Grin- nell and Wilbur Mountains to the foot of Swift-

current Mountain. Here it zig-zags up to Rocky Point, a sharp, projecting shoulder ot the moun- tain. From the summit of thia point, about two- thirds of the distance to the pass, an impressive view is obtained. Looking east down the Swift- current valley, nine lakes can be counted, the last one Duck Lake being twenty miles to the east on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. Another mile brings one to the summit of the pass, and after crossing several large snow patches that re- fuse to submit to the rays of Old Sol, a signboard indicates that an altitude of 7 1 56 feet above level has been attained the top of the pass.

Several shelf glaciers have been seen onthewa clinging to the east side of the mountain. De- scending the west side, a few minutes' ride, an two small stone chalets come into view, are the Granite Park chalets.

Granite Park and Vicinity

The trip to Granite Park chalets and back be made in one day, but to appreciate the beauty of the region no less than two days should be de- voted to it, as there are some short walking trips radiating from the Granite Park chalets.

Another longer trip is the three-day triangle trip leaving Many Glacier Hotel the first day and going over Swiftcurrent Pass to Granite Park; on the second day going over Logan Pass to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets; and on the third day returning via Piegan Pass to Many Glac Hotel.

Granite Park is a wide plateau bulging from the west side of the Continental wall, 6500 feet above sea level, at the edge of the timber line. Ahead of it is the wide, heavily-timbered Mc- Donald Valley. Directly across the deep green valley is Heaven's Peak, whose stately outlines are enhanced by the snow clinging to its sides like fine lint. A trail to the south takes one over Lo- gan Pass to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets; a foot trail leads to the Garden Wall, where one can see over the top of the wall, and look far down the Swiftcurrent and Cataract valleys, and onto Grinnell Glacier below.

A Tumbled Mass of Peaks

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Another foot trail, requiring a walk of about an hour to the top of Swiftcurrent Mountain, will spread before the tourist one of the broadest, and most inspiring views in any land. To the sout beyond the goat-haunted ledges of the Ga Wall, the embattled summits of Haystack But Mt. Pollock, Mt. Brown, Oberlin and Cannon Mountains appear as a jumbled collection of discarded fortresses. To the north there is the same extravagant piling-up of resplendent, lofty ridges, the same unequal line of spires and peaks, of points and crags their deep sun-protected recesses, vast receptacles for the inevitable masses of eternal snow.

Another fifteen-minute walk takes one to Rosenwald Ridge, just north of the chalets. Here an excellent view of Mt. Cleveland is obtained, as well as Trapper Peak. Vulture Peak, and other mountains to the north and west. Trails also lead from here to Lake McDonald on the South, and north to Waterton Lake.

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© R. E. Marble HEAD OF LAKE McDONALD

The mountain framing of the upper end of the lake is of distinctively Alpine character

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LEWIS' (GLACIER) HOTEL Located on beautifully wooded slopes at the upper end of Lake McDonald are modern resort facilities

Entering the Park at Belton

Western Gateway

Belton, Montana, is the railroad station at the western entrance to the Park. The Belton Cha- lets near the station provide accommodations for tourists waiting for trains or stage connections. An auto stage makes regular trips to the foot of Lake McDonald, connecting with launch service for resorts at the head of the lake. A wide ma- cadam road, built through a forest of heavy cedar and spruce, leads to the foot of Lake McDonald, three miles north of Belton.

At the lower end of the lake the road swings to the left and continues up the valley of the North Fork of the Flathead River, to Bowman and Kintla Lakes. This road is not suitable for automobile travel, except for a few miles beyond Lake McDonald.

On and Around Lake McDonald

Lake McDonald is a mountain-framed body of water occupying the lower end of the McDonald Valley. It has an irregular shore line, heavily timbered, with a splendid grouping of mountains at the upper end. the principal ones being Mt. Vaught. 8.840 feet; Mt. Brown. 8.541 feet; and Cannon Mountain. 8.000 feet. The highest peak in this region is Edwards Mountain. 9,055 feet.

McDonald Creek, heading on the Continental Divide near Trappers Peak, twenty-five miles north, comes rollicking down the valley between the mountains as though it was happy in its end- less task of keeping the lake well supplied with its matchless blue water.

There is very good fishing in Lake McDonald as well as in the tributary streams. Two miles above the outlet of McDonald creek is Paradise

Canyon, a rocky gorge very narrow and deep, with some attractive waterfalls in it.

Avalanche Basin and Lake are a day's trip to the north. Avalanche Basin is one of the finest examples of a glacial cirque in the Park. The walls at the back of the basin are over three thou- sand feet high. At the top of this wall is Sperry Glacier and the melting ice of the glacier spills over the precipice in a half-dozen torrential streams. Most of the water reaches the lake, but a great quantity is blown away in mist as it dashes against the rocks in its downward plunge.

From Lewis' Hotel a good trail is built around the south side of Edwards Mountain and up Sprague Creek to Sperry Glacier. This glacier covers about a square mile in area, and the sum- mit is comparatively flat. It is a four -hour trip from Lake McDonald, and the last mile of the journey must be made on foot up the almost perpendicular wall of the mountain. Those in- terested in studying glaciers will find Sperry easily accessible; the chalet close at hand will en- able one to spend several days, if he chooses, in examining it. One may look down into Ava- lanche Basin from its terminal moraine.

Trout Lake, about eight miles west of Lake McDonald, is a favorite fishing place, and Snyder Lake four miles east is another angler's delight.

Sperry Glacier Chalets are passed on the way to Sperry Glacier. Continuing east from the cha- lets, the trail finds its way out of the basin over Lincoln Divide and Gunsight Pass to Going-to- the-Sun chalets.

Lake McDonald is also the starting point for camping trips up the North Fork of the Flathead

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River, taking in Bowman and Kintla Lakes, crossing the Divide at Brown's Pass to Water- ton Lake, and either returning down McDonald Valley or crossing Swiftcurrent Pass and contin- uing the trip on the east side of the Park.

Camping Trips in the North Country

North of the Many Glacier region, there is a big area which but few people have seen. There be- ing no hotel accommodations, a camp outfit is re- quired in order to explore it.

The first valley north of the Swiftcurrent is Kennedy. Continuing across Kennedy Valley and over the hump of Chief Mountain, the trail brings one into the Belly River Valley. Near the boundary of the Park, this river forks; one branch leads to Elizabeth and 1 I el en Lakes, fed by Ahern Glacier, the other leads to Glenns Lake whose source is Chancy Glacier on the Continental Di- vide. From the Belly River one can go by trail to Waterton Lake. The return trip is made down the Kootenai Valley to Granite Park and continued over Swiftcurrent Pass to Many Gla- cier Hotel, or on to Lake McDonald.

Camping trips of short or long duration can be arranged for by giving the Park Saddle-Horse Company reasonable notice. A trip of a week or ten days is a pleasant diversion from the hotel and chalet life for those who like to do a little ex- ploring and wander off the beaten paths. The equipment used on these trips is designed to con- tribute to one's comfort as much as possible, con- sidering the limitations of pack-horse transporta- tion. Individual tents are used which accommo- date either one or two persons. Mattress pads are provided, cotton sheets may be had if desired.

The charge for this service is based on the number of people in the party and includes horses, guides, tents, provisions, bedding, etc. Many interesting points in the park can be reached only by this means. A thirty-day camping trip will enable one to cover practically every trail in the park by moving camp every day. This is a delightful and, though somewhat strenuous, is a healthful and interesting form of outing.

Personally-Conducted Saddle and Pack Trips Off the Beaten Paths

A most enjoyable way of seeing Glacier National Park is to join an all-expense horseback camping party conducted by experienced guides authorized by the Government to personally es- cort such excursions.

For the names and addresses of the licensees and other information concerning these "Roughing- it-in-comfort" trips, apply to National Park Ser- vice, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. ; or Manager of the Bureau of Service, Na- tional Parks and Monuments; or Travel Bureau, Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111.

Ideal for Walking Tours

Walking as a recreation has become a popular pastime. Glacier National Park is unusually adapted to this kind of an outing. Its varied scenery and convenient facilities contribute to the comfort and pleasure of the hiker For those who follow the trails afoot, the hotels and chalets, located at reasonable intervals, provide shelter

and food, so that a night need not be spent in the open, nor need heavy packs be carried.

For those who would combine walking and rid- ing, excellent automobile and launch service is available, thus enabling one to proceed easily and quickly to the various centers of scenic interest, and from these points to penetrate the interior of the Park afoot. As an interesting diversion, one can make some of the longer trips over the trails on horseback.

The mountain paths are so charming; they wander about so capriciously; they run so mer- rily over the moss in the woods and beside the babbling brooks; they climb so cheerfully up the s opes and hillsides, and lead you through so much freshness and perfume and varied scenery, that the pleasures of sight soon make one obliv- ious of bodily fatigue.

Park Administration

Glacier National Park is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Service, Washing- ton, D. C., Department of the Interior. The headquarters of the superintendent are located at Belton, Montana.

Open Season

The tourist season is from June 1 5 to Septem- ber 15. Hotel and transportation facilities are available during this period.

How to Reach the Park

Glacier Park station, Mont., the principal and eastern entrance, is 1 ,081 miles west of St. Paul, a ride of thirty-four hours. Belton, Mont., the western entrance, is 637 miles east of Seattle, a ride of twenty-two hours. Good train service is available from Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Louis, Kansas City, Omaha, Denver, Port- land, Tacoma, Seattle and Spokane, connecting with trains from all other sections.

Excursion Fares

During the summer season, round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold at practically all stations in the United States and Canada to Gla- cier Park as a destination. Tickets reading to Glacier Park station will be honored to or from Belton, and tickets reading to Belton will be hon- ored to or from Glacier Park station, at option of passengers and without additional charge. From same sections excursion tickets are also sold to Glacier Park which permit opportunity to visit Yellowstone National Park, enabling passengers to make circuit tours of these two parks and, if journeying through Colorado, side-trips to Rocky Mountain and Mesa Verde National Parks if desired.

Passengers wishing to visit Glacier National Park en route to other destinations, may stop over at Glacier Park station or at Belton on round-trip or one-way tickets.

Baggage

Passengers should be careful to make sure their baggage is checked to the point they intend to enter the Park either Glacier Park station or Belton.

Storage charges on baggage at Glacier Park station and at Belton will be waived for actual length of time consumed by passengers in making Park tours.

Page twenty -three

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Automobile Roads *ya/n Trails Other Trails

Park Transportation Facilities

Automobile stages on the roads, launches on the lakes, and saddle horses over the trails, are the means of transportation. Glacier Park Hotel. Two Medicine Chalets. Cut Bank and St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier 1 lotel are all on the automobile highway. Going-to-the-Sun Chalets are reached by launch from St. Mary chalets. Lake McDonald is reached by auto stages from Belton connecting with launches for resorts up the lake. There are so many trips available that few

people can stay long enough to enjoy them all. For this reason several combination tours are shown in this book.

Five hundred saddle horses are required to meet the demand for trail trips. These sure- footed ponies are trained for mountain trails and will carry one up the steepest places and over the summits. It is this diversity of transportation facilities and variety of tours that have been prominent factors in the popularity of Glacier National Park.

Page twenty-four

Hotel and Chalet Rates and Accommodations

Glacier Park Hotel:

Located at Glacier Park Station, eastern entrance to the Park. 200 rooms, accommodations for over 400 people electric lighted, steam heat, room telephones, running water, laundry, rooms with private bath, cuisine and service of high order, plunge pool, shower baths, sun par- lor, open camp fire in lobby, lounging and music room, a la carte grill room.

New Many Glacier Motel:

Located 55 miles north of Glacier Park Hotel, on scenic automobile highway. Automobile stage service to and from Glacier Park Hotel daily. This new hotel contains accommodations for 500 guests electric lighted, steam heated, room telephones, laundry, rooms with private bath- plunge pool open camp fires in lobby In- dian room cafe. Starting point for trail trips. Rates at Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel $4.50 and $5.00 without bath, dependent on location. $5.50. $6.00. $7.00 and $8.00 per day with bath, depend- ent on location. Ametican plan, operated by the Glacier Park Hotel Company. Glacier Park. Mont, or 1 030 Rail- road Building. St. Paul. Minn.

Glacier Park Hotel Company's Chalet Groups:

Throughout Glacier National Park, distant from ten to sixteen miles from each other, the Glacier Park Hotel Company maintains and operates the following perma- nent chalets, or small hotels. Rates at all chalets $4.00 per day. American plan, viz.: $1.00 for meals and $1.00 for lodging.

Two Medicine Chalets:

Command a view of the mountains and lakes of the Two Medicine Country, reached by automobile, horseback, or afoot. 12 miles from Glacier Park Hotel. Electric lighted, detached shower or tub baths. 5G cents. Capac- ity 100 guests.

Cut Bank Chalets:

Located in the Cut Bank Valley. 22 miles from Glacier Park Hotel, a popular rendezvous for fishermen. From this camp it is a day's side trip to Triple Divide Mountain, where the water flows three ways. Capacity 45 guests.

St. Mary Chalets:

Located on lower end of upper St. Mary Lake. 32 miles from Glacier Park Hotel. The going-in point for tourists visiting the Going-to-the-Sun Chalet. Side trip is made from here to Red Eagle Lake, a popular fishing trip. Electric lighted, detached shower or tub baths. 50 cents. Capacity 125 guests.

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets:

Located on the northwest shore of St. Mary Lake, nine miles up lake from St. Mary Chalets, commanding a view of the Continental Divide. Reached by boat from St. Mary Chalets, or afoot or horseback from interior points. Detached shower or tub baths. 50 cents, electric lighted. Capacity 150 guests.

Many Glacier Chalets:

Located one-eighth of a mile from the new Many Glacier Hotel. Side trips from this point same as from Many Glacier Hotel. Detached shower or tub baths at hotel, 50 cents. Capacity 100 guests. Electric lighted. Cha- let guests take meals in main dining room of Many Gla- cier Hotel.

V

Granite Park Chalets:

Located on the west side of the Continental Divide in Granite Park. Reached by horseback or afoot from Many Glacier Hotel via Swiftcurrent Pass. Capacity 60 guests.

Sperry Glacier Chalets:

Located on the west side of the Continental Divide, near Sperry Glacier. Reached by horseback or afoot from Going-to-the-Sun Chalets or Lake McDonald. Capac- ity 75 guests.

Belton Chalets:

Located on the railroad at Belton station, the western entrance to the Park, three miles from Lake McDonald, fifty-eight miles west of Glacier Park station. Detached •hower or tub baths. 50 cents. Capacity 125 guests.

Furnished Chalets For Rent:

At Many Glacier there are three chalets which are fur- nished and equipped for housekeeping, and which are for rent by the month or season. Each of these contains bed- rooms, kitchenette and shower bath, and has accommoda- tions for 6 to 1 2 people. Linen and firewood are included in the furnishings; supplies may be purchased at the Many Glacier Store. Rates for rental of these chalets may be obtained upon application.

Medical Service:

A physician is located at the Glacier Park Hotel. A trained nurse is stationed at Glacier Park Hotel, another at Many Glacier Hotel. Their services are available at all times at standard professional rates. A line of medical and surgical supplies is carried in the dispensary at each hotel.

Rates for Children:

The following rates are authorized for children at the above hotels and chalets when accompanied by parents or guardians:

Children five years of age and over, full rate. Children under five years of age, one-half rate.

Lake McDonald Resorts:

There is one large hotel and two cottage resorts on Lake McDonald on west side of park, reached from Belton via auto road and launch.

Lewis' (Glacier) Hotel:

At upper end of Lake; accommodations for 225 guests; electric lighted; steam heat; laundry; rooms with private bath. Starting point for trail trips. Rates: $4.00 and $5.00 per day; with bath $6.00 per day. American plan. J E. Lewis, Proprietor, Lake McDonald. Mont.

Park Cabin Resort:

At head of Lake McDonald. Several log cottages and central dining room. Rates $2.50 to $3.00 per day. James Conlon (trustee). Proprietor. Belton. Mont.

National Park Cabin Resort:

At foot of Lake McDonald. Log cabins for rent. No dining room. Rates on application. H. D. Apgar. Proprietor. Belton. Mont.

Open Season:

The season is June 15th to September 15th, and the hotels are open at that time. Some years on account of heavy snowfall, Sperry Chalets and Granite Park Chalets are not opened until a week or two later. Lewis' Hotel opens June 1st.

Telegraph and Telephone Service:

Glacier Park Station and Belton are Western Union Tele- graph offices and service is available from all hotels and chalets in connection with the Park Telephone System.

Mail:

Guests stopping at hotels and chalets on the east side should have mail addressed care of Glacier Park Hotel, Glacier Park, Mont. this is the post office for Glacier Park and Many Glacier Hotels, and the Chalets. Mail for Lake McDonald resorts should be addressed to Lake McDonald P. O.. Mont., or to Belton.

Clothing Suggestions:

Light-weight woolen underwear or heavy cotton under- wear is recommended; wool is preferable as the weather may be quite warm on the lower levels but cool on the summits of the passes. If one contemplates buying special outing clothing, the brown khaki is most econom- ical and serviceable. It is light in weight, and as it is tightly woven, keeps out the wind and to a limited ex- tent, will shed water. For either horseback riding or walking, the khaki riding breeches are recommended for both men and women.

Stout shoes or outing boots, canvas leggings or leather puttees, a pair of gloves and a comfortable old soft hat. complete the outfit. A heavy outer wrap should be pro- vided, such as a sweater or mackinaw. A very complete line of suitable clothing is for sale at the stores in the hotels at reasonable prices.

Page twenty-jive

A BLACKFEET INDIAN CAMP I he Blackfeet Indians have left a lasting impress of their occupation on this region, many mountains and lakes bearing

their original Indian na

Page twenty-six

ST. MARY LAKE At St. Mary Chalets— Transfer is made from autos to a sturdy launch for the trip up the lake

Automobile and Launch Service

The Glacier Park Transportation Company is licensed by the United States Government to operate automobile stages within the Park. Comfortable ten-passenger auto stages are used. These stages run on regular schedules as follows:

Between Glacier Park Hotel, St. Mary, and Many Glacier Hotel.

Northbound Daily

Leave Glacier Park ... 8:00 a. m.

Arrive St. Mary Chalets 10:45 a. m.

Leave St. Mary Chalets 1 1 :00 a. m.

Arrive Many Glacier Hotel 12:45 p. m.

Southbound Daily

Leave Many Glacier Hotel 1 :30 p. m.

Arrive St. Mary Chalets 3:15 p. m.

Leave St. Mary Chalets 3:30 p. m.

Arrive Glacier Park Hotel 6:15 p. m.

As soon as traffic warrants additional service is provided, leaving Glacier Park Hotel at 1 :30 5. M., arriving at Many Glacier Hotel at 6:15 P. M., and leaving Many Glacier Hotel at 8:00 A. M., arriving at Glacier Park Hotel at 12:45 P. M.

Between Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medi- cine Chalets:

Leave Glacier Park Hotel 2:00 p. m.

Arrive Two Medicine Chalets 3:00 p. m.

Leave Two Medicine Chalets 4:00 p. m.

Arrive Glacier Park Hotel 5.00 p. m.

Passenger Fares

One Round

Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets . $3.50 $7.00 Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel . 6.50 1 3.00 St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Hotel . . 3.00 6.00 Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medicine Cha- lets 1 50 3.00

*Glacier Park Hotel and Cut Bank Chalets ' 5.00

Bel ton and Lake McDonald 50 1.00

*Rate applies only for minimum of 4 fare*.

Baggage Transportation :

The following rates apply for the transportation of bag- gage between points in Glacier National Park, via auto express service. Auto stages are not equipped to handle heavy baggage and same must go on first auto truck fol- lowing.

Passengers touring Park will be permitted to carry with them free on automobiles, stages or launches, one piece of hand baggage weighing not to exceed 20 pounds.

BETWEEN Baggage Rate

I runk Grip

Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medicine Cha- lets . ..$1.00 $ .50

Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets . 2.00 .50

Glacier Park Hotel and Many-Glacier Cha- 4 00 I 00

lets 4.00 1.00

Glacier Park Hotel and Going-to-the-Sun

Chalets 2 50 I 00

St. Mary Chalets and Going-to-the-Sun Cha- lets 50 .25

St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Chalets 2 00 .50

Belton Chalets and Lewis' Hotel . .1.00 .50

Belton Chalets and Foot of Lake McDonald .50 .25 Foot of Lake McDonald and Head of Lake

McDonald 50 .25

Freight Rates on Automobiles Between Glacier Park Station and Belton:

An automobile highway has been perfected through from Duluth. St. Paul, Minneapolis and Grand Forks. N. D.. to Glacier Park Station. From here to Belton there is no road. From Belton, Mont., the automobile highway continues west to Spokane and the Pacific Coast For the convenience of automobilists making the overland trip in their cars the Railroad will have in effect during the Park season a rate of $12.50 for transporting auto- mobiles between Glacier Park Station and Belton in either direction.

Launch Service:

Between St. Mary Chalets and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets on St. Mary Lake, and between the foot of Lake Mc- Donald and head of lake, launches are operated, connect- ing with auto stages. Launch fare each way $ .75

P a %e twenty-seven

Saddle Horse, Pack Horse and Guide Rates

The Park Saddle Horse Company furnishes saddle horses, pack horses and guides under con- cession from the United States Government.

Scheduled Trips

Minimum Rate number per required n party

From Glacier Park Hotel:

*To Mt. Henry and return— 1 -day trip . .$4.00 *To Two Medicine and return 2-day trip

via Mt. Henry in one direction 8.00 3

Inside Trail Trip via Two Medicine. Mt. Morgan. Cut Bank Chalet*. Triple Divide. Red Eagle Lake. St. Mary Cha- lets. Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. Piegan Pass to Many Glacier Hotel— A 5-day

scenic trip 18.00 5

Same trip as far as St. Mary Chalets only

—3-day trip 13.25 5

From Many Glacier Hotel:

*Iceberg Lake and return I -day trip. . . . 3.50 Granite Park and return 2-day trip. . . . 8.00 Granite Park and return— 1-day trip 5.00

*Cracker Lake and return 1-day trip . . . 3.50 I Morning Eagle Falls, Piegan Pass and re- turn— I -day trip 4.00 I

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via Piegan Pass

one way I -day trip 4.00 I

tLogan Pass Triangle Trip via Granite Park. Logan Pass. Going-to-the-Sun and Piegan Pass and vice versa 3-day trip. 12. 50

*Ptarmigan Lake and return 1-day trip 4 00

*Grinnell Lake and return ^i-d&y trip . 3.50 Grinnell Glacier and return 1-day trip . 4.00 3

From Going-to-the-Sun Chalets:

Many Glacier Hotel via Piegan Pass .... 4.00 tTriangle Trip: via Logan Pass, Granite Park. Swiftcurrent Pass. Many Glacier and Piegan Pass or vice versa 3-day

trip 12.50

*Sexton Glacier and return %-<l*y trip . . 3.50

*Gunsight Lake and return— 1 -day trip . .$4.00

*Roea Basin and return I -day trip 4.00 3

Lake McDonald via Sperry Chalets and Gunsight Pass 2-day trip, stopping over night at Sperry Chalets 8.00 5

From St. Mary Chalets:

*Red Eagle Lake and return— 1 -day trip $ 4.00 3

Glacier Park Hotel via Red Eagle. Triple Di- vide, Cut Bank Chalets, and Two Medicine Chalets (Inside Trail Trip)— 3-day trip 13.25 5

From Lake McDonald (Lewis' Hotel) :

*Sperry Glacier and return 1-day trip 4.00 3

Lincoln Peak and return 1 -day trip 4.00 3

*Avalanche Basin and return I -day trip 4.00 3

Snyder Lake and return 1-day trip 4.00 3

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via Sperry Chalets

and Gunsight Pass 2-day trip 8.00 5

For Special or Non-Scheduled Trips:

Saddle and Pack Horses, per day $ 3.

Guides, including Guides' Horse and board per

day 8.00

NOTE Trips marked (*) made daily during season;

other trips available July 1st to Sept. 1st.

CM Parties once started on "Triangle Trip" will not

be allowed refund in case of withdrawal before trip is

completed.

All Expense Camping Trips

Licensed outfitters in Glacier Park are pre- pared to furnish complete camp outfits at the following prices for trips of ten or more days.

Cost per

day per

Person

For party of 1 $25.00

For party of 2 15.75

For party of 3 12.65

For party of 4 12.40

For party of 5 1 1 .30

For party of 6 10.60

For party of 7 or more 1 0.00

amples of Combination Tours via Auto, Launch and Saddle Horse

The rates quoted cover transportation only and do not include meals and lodging at hotels and chalets.

Round

FROM GLACIER PARK HOTEL Trip

Per

One-Day Tour: Person

A delightful ride by auto to Two Medicine Lake and Return: Twelve miles to Two Medicine Cha- lets—afternoon trip. . . $ 3.00

One-Day Tour:

By saddle horse to summit of Mt. Henry and re- turn wonderful view of Two Medicine Valley from Summit. Party of three or more 4.00

One-Day Tour:

To St. Mary Chalets and Going-to-the-Sun Cha- lets by auto and launch, leaving Glacier Park Hotel at 8 a. m. and returning at 6: 1 5 p. m. Round trip 85 miles of wonderful scenery . . 8.50

Two-Day Tour:

Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel first day. returning second day and making side trip to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, thence via St. Mary to Glacier Park Hotel. Automobile and launch 14.50

Three-Day Tour:

First day to Many Glacier Hotel via auto; second day to Iceberg Lake by saddle horse; third day to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via auto and launch, thence via St. Mary and auto to Glacier Park Hotel 18.00

Four-Day Tour:

First day via auto to Many Glacier Hotel; second day saddle horse to Iceberg Lake; third day saddle horse to Cracker Lake; fourth day to Going-to-the- Sun Chalets via auto and launch, returning same day to Glacier Park Hotel $21 50

Five-Day Tour:

First day auto to Many Glacier Hotel; second day saddle horse to Iceberg Lake; third day saddle horse to Granite Park; fourth day return to Many- Glacier Hotel; fifth day return to Glacier Park Hotel via St Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. 26.00

Six-Day Tour:

First day auto to Many Glacier Hotel; second day saddle horse to Iceberg Lake; third day saddle horse to Cracker Lake; fourth day saddle horse to Granite Park; fifth day return to Many Glacier Hotel; sixth day to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via auto and launch, thence to Glacier Park Hotel 29.50

Seven-Day Tour:

l-'irst day auto to Many Glacier Hotel; second day saddle horse to Iceberg Lake; third day saddle horse to Cracker Lake; fourth day saddle horse to Granite Park; fifth day Granite Park via Logan Pass to Going-to-the-Sun: sixth day saddle horse over Piegan Pass to Many Glacier Hotel; seventh day Many Glacier Hotel via auto and launch to Going-to-the-Sun and St. Mary, thence to Glacier Park Hotel . . . 34.00

Page twenty-eight

© F. H. Rise

WILD FLOWERS EVERYWHERE n Glacier Park the wild flowers often contrast their colors with a background of pure white snow

Distances Between Points of Interest in Glacier Park

From Glacier Park Hotel: Mile*

Two Medicine Chalet* 12

Summit of Mt. Henry 8

Two Medicine Falls I

Cut Bank Chalets 22

St. Mary Chalets 32

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets 41

Many Glacier Hotel 55

Sperry Chalets 58

Granite Park 64

From Two Medicine Chalets:

Trick Falls 2

Mt. Henry 4

Dawson Pass 8

Appistoki Falls 2

Cut Bank Pass 10

Cut Bank Chalets 18

From Cut Bank Chalets:

Cut Bank Pass 8

Triple Divide 8

Red Eagle Lake 15

St. Mary Chalets 23

From Going-to-the-Sun Chalets:

Sexton Glacier. . . . Gunsight Lake. . . . Blackfeet Glacier. Gunsight Pass ... Sperry Chalets. . . .

Piegan Pass

Many Glacier Hotel (by trail) . .

6

9

12

13

17

9

18

Many Glacier Hotel (by road) 32

Logan Pass 8

Granite Park . . ,.16

Miles .. 32 .. 23

. 9 .. 26

. 33

From St. Mary Chalets:

Glacier Park Hotel

Many Glacier Hotel

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets

Sperry Chalets

Lake McDonald . .

Red Eagle Lake

Triple Divide 15

Cut Bank Chalets 22

From Many Glacier Hotel:

Iceberg Lake 6

Cracker Lake 7

Grinnell Lake 5

Josephine Lake 2

Ptarmigan Lake 7

Swiftcurrent Pass 8

Granite Park Chalets 9

Piegan Pass 9

Morning Eagle Falls 8

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets (by trail) 18

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets (by road) 32

Grinnell Glacier 7

Appekunny Falls 2

From Granite Park Chalets:

Rosenwald Ridge

14

Summit of Swiftcurrent Mt . .

" i

The Garden Wall

1

Logan Pass

8

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets

16

Lake McDonald Waterton Lake. . .

20 . 18

From Head of Lake McDonald:

Belton Station

Sperry Chalets

Avalanche Basin . Granite Park .... Trout Lake. . .

United States Government Publications

The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office. Washington. D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be made by money order or in cash:

Origin of the Scenic Features of Glacier National Park, by M. R. Campbell. 42 pages. 25 illustrations, 15 cents. Glaciers of Glacier National Park, by W. C. Alden. 48 pages, 30 illustrations. I 5 cents.

Some Lakes of Glacier National Park, by M. J. Elrod. 32 pages. 19 illustrations. 10 cents.

Glacier National Park— a Popular Guide to its Geology and Scenery, by M. R. Campbell, 54 pages, 13 plates, in- cluding map. 30 cents.

Panoramic View of Glacier National Park, !8Hx2l inches* 25 cents. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260

Kges. 270 illustrations descriptive of nine National Parks, imphlet edition. 35 cents; book edition. 55 cents.

The following may be obtained from Director of the United States Geological Survey, Wash- ington, D. C., at price given.

Map of Glacier National Park. 31x35 inches. 25 cents.

The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C., or by personal application at the registration offices of the Park.

Circular of general information regarding Glacier National Park.

Glimpses of our National Parks, 48 pages, illustrated.

Map showing location of National Parks and National Monuments, and railroad routes thereto.

United States Railroad Administration Publications

The following publications may be Office, or Bureau of Service, National 646 Transportation Building. Chicago,

Arizona and New Mexico Rockies. California for the Tourist. Colorado and Utah Rockies. Crater Lake National Park. Oregon. Glacier National Park. Montana. Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands. Hot Springs National Paik. Arkansas. Me»a Verde National Park. Colorado.

obtained free on application to any Consolidated Ticket Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines. Illinois:

Mount Rainier National Park. Washington.

Northern Lakes —Wisconsin. Minnesota. Iowa. Illinois and

Upper Michigan.

Pacific Northwest and Alaska.

Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona.

Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado.

Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. California.

Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Montana. Idaho.

Yosemite National Park. California.

Zion National Monument. Utah.

Page thirty

"" Nw0*0'- ^"-"y

V7^fe^._ /C 0,,,/p^

0 £ *SI —*- •^^z^z i msf*y«.- *-•——£?"*>/

1 HE NATIONAL PARKS AT A GLANCE

For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following United States Railroad Administration Consolidated Ticket Offices.

Beaumont, Tex. .Orleans and Pearl Sts.

Bremerton, Wash 224 Front St.

Butte, Mont 2 N. Main St.

Chicago. Ill \75 W. Jackson Blvd.

Colorado Springs. Colo.

119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 112-114 Field St.

601 \7th St.

a 403 Walnut St.

..334 W. Superior St.

. Mills and Oregon Sts.

702 Houston St.

. . . . J and Fresno Sts.

.21st and Market Sts.

58 S. Main St.

. . .904 Texas Ave.

Denver. Colo . . Des Moines, lo Duluth, Minn. . . El Paso. Tex .... Ft. Worth. Tex . .

Fresno, Cal

Galveston, Tex . . Helena, Mont. . . Houston, Tex . . . Kansas City, Mo.

Ry. Ex. Bldg. 7th and Walnut Sts.

Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave.

Atlantic City. N. J. . . 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md . . .B. & O. R. R. Bldg.

Boston, Mass 67 Franklin St.

Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St.

Buffalo. N. Y., Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati. Ohio.. .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland, Ohio . . . 1004 Prospect Ave.

Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St

Dayton, Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St.

WEST

Lincoln, Neb 104 N. 13th St.

Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St.

Long Beach, Cal. .L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles, Cal.. ..215 S. Broadway

Milwaukee, Wis 99 Wisconsin St

Minneapolis, Minn. 202 Sixth St. South Oakland, Cal. .13th St. and Broadway

Ocean Park, Cal 160 Pier Ave.

Oklahoma City, Okla.

1 3 I W. Grand Ave.

Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St

Peoria. 111. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz.

Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland. Ore.. 3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo.. ..401-3 N. Union Ave.

St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St.

St. Louis. Mo.. 3 18-3 28 North Broadway

EAST

Detroit. Mich ... I 3 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . L. & N. R. R. Bldg.

Grand Rapids. Mich 1 25 Pearl St.

Indianapolis. Ind.. 112-14 English Block Newark, N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts.

New York. N. Y 64 Broadway

New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St.

New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St.

New York. N. Y I 1 4 W. 42d St.

SOUTH

Asheville. N. C Atlanta, Ga Augusta. Ga Birmingham. Ala

14 S. Polk Square] Knoxville. Tenn

74 Peachtree St. 811 Broad St. 2010 1st Ave.

....... .

Charleston, S. C ...... Charleston Hotel

Charlotte. N. C ........ 22 S. Tryon St.

Chattanooga. Tenn...8l7 Market St. Columbia. S. C ....... Arcade Building

Jacksonville. Fla ....... 38 W. Bay St.

Lexington, Ky . Louisville. Ky . . Lynchburg. Va . Memphis. Tenn Mobile. Ala .... Montgomery, Ala

600 Gay St.

Union Station

4th and Market Sts.

722 Main St.

60 N. Main St.

5 1 S. Royal St.

Exchange Hotel

Nashville.Tenn., Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans. La . . . .St. Charles Hotel

St. Paul. Minn . .4th and Jackson Sta. Sacramento. Cal.. . . 801 K St.

Salt Lake. Utah

Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio. Texas

315-17 N. St. Mary's St.

San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway

San Francisco. Cal.

Lick Bldg., Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal., I stand San Fernando Sts.

Seattle, Wash 714-16 2d Ave.

Shreveport, La..Milam and Market Sts.

Sioux City, Iowa 510 4th St.

Spokane. Wash.

Davenport Hotel, 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash ... I I 17-19 Pacific Ave. Waco. Texas . . . .6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal . . . .L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg, Man 226 Portage Ave.

Philadelphia. Pa.. Pittsburgh. Pa ...

Reading. Pa

Rochester. N. Y. . . Syracuse. N. Y. . . ,

Toledo, Ohio

Washington. D. C. Williamsport. Pa . . Wilmington. Del . .

.1539 Chestnut St.

. .Arcade Building .. ..16 N. Fifth St. 20 State St.

..University Block

.320 Madison Ave ..1229 FSt. N. W.

4th and Pine Sts. . ..905 Market St.

Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway

Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel

Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St.

Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St.

Savannah. Ga .. ..37 Bull St.

Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel

Tampa. Fla . ..Hillsboro Hotel

Vicksburg. Miss. 1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St.

For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western lines, 646 Transportation Bldg.. Chicago, or any Railroad Ticket Agent.

McGill-Warner Co., Printers St. Paul, Minn.

Page thirty-one

if.

^A

ii i

CANYON AND FALLS IN SWIFTCURRENT VALLEY

GRAND CANYON

National

UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION

NAL PAR.K. SF

The Titan of Chasm* inexpressible you must see it to understai

P a & e two

A Cosmic Intaglio

An Appreciation of

Grand Canyon National Park

By Charles F. Lummis

Author of "The Land of Poco Tiempo," "Some Strange Corners of Our Country," "Pueblo Indian Folk Stoiies," etc.

]N the very cradle of recorded Time, the Grand Canyon was waiting, under the Slow Smile of God, for Man to come to it and know His chiefest Wonder-vision on earth ; this vast chameleon, unearthly, attainable, Mirage in Immortal Rock. Through milleniums it has been worshipful and awe-full to the bronzed First Americans, whose swallow-nesting homes still crumble along that amethystine "Rim/' Caucasians were late of coming though to us parvenus it seems long ago, in years and world-change. When Coro- nado's lieutenant, Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, first of Europeans, stood upon this Brink (September 14, 1540), Luther was walking the floor with his fretful Reformation, just cutting its teeth. Henry VIII. was still adding new reels to his kinema of wives. His seven-year-old daughter Bess was learning never to lose her head (as Mamma had done), and to have no heart to lose. She staid unmarried as many times as Papa didn't. It was forty years before Raleigh spread his cape for her. It was a generation before Shakespeare, and two before Milton; seventy years before English was spoken in any home in all the New World. There was not a printed Bible, except in Latin; and the King James version was nigh seventy years to the future. It was three centuries before the first friction match; over two hundred years before Ben Franklin invented the first cook-stove; twenty-five years before the first forks and steel needles. It was a world without kerosene, wire cigars, potatoes, corn, whisky, side-saddles, public schools and libraries, quinine, rifles, tin cans, turkeys, newspapers, novels, vaccination without even the sacred symbol, $.

As to the Franciscan missionaries it was a week before our Declaration of Independence that Fray Francisco Garces (first of Europeans) saw the Canyon from the West. In the same month that General Howe defeated Washington's forces at White Plains, Fray Sylvestre Velez de Escalante

P a & e three

was first white man to cross (October 7, 1776) the chasm and its head- long river.

Major Powell's heroic threadings of that fearsome Labyrinth (1869-70) marked the first serious attention of "Americans" to the most wondrous thing in America; but his notable volumes precipitated no pilgrimage. Thirty-five years ago, when I began my 'prenticeship to the Canyon, not a hundred people a year saw it and ten Englishmen to one American. Today (most thanks to the builders of the steel highway), it is famous and luxuriously accessible yet 95 per cent of the travelers passing within sixty miles never visit it!

As it was I who first raised (a third of a century ago) the slogan, "See America First!" it now falls my privilege to extend this official invitation to the opening of the Grand Canyon, at last a National Park, guarded by Government; a heritage unto our children's children forever. I doubt not it has the very humility of its transcendent greatness, and patiently enjoys our little "Recognition" and "Honor."

The Grand Canyon Bids You! Come, all ye Peoples of the Earth, to witness God's boldest and most flaming Signature across Earth's face! Come and penitent ye of the United States, to marvel upon this chiefest Miracle of our own land!

Ten thousand pens have "described at" this Indescribable, in vain, is alone in the world. The only Mountain Range in Captivity a hundred miles of unearthly peaks, taller from their gnawing river than Mt. Wash- ington above the distant sea; all countersunk in a prodigious serpentine gulf of living rock; a Cosmic Intaglio carved in the bosom of the great Arizona Plateau. Nowhere else can you look up hundreds of 7,000-foot cliffs whose tops are but three miles from a plummet to your feet. And from their Rim, look down upon such leagues of inverted and captive sk:es of rainbows in solution, and snow and thunder tempests far below you; -and brimming fogs that flow with the moon, and with dawn ebb and ebb till one by one the white, voiceless tide reveals the glorified "islands" of its countless archipelago of glowing peaks.

It is a matchless cross-section of Earth's anatomy, to the geologist. To all, it is a Poem ; History ; an imperishable Inspiration. Words cannot over-tell it nor half tell. See it, and you will know why !

It has waited long to give you welcome and benediction and a deathless Memory. Come !

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To the American People:

Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America.

Secretary of the Interior

Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon National Park, in north- ern Arizona, is the newest of bur national playgrounds, having been brought into the National Park family by Act of Con- gress, February 26, 1919. One comes upon it suddenly, only a short distance from the railroad terminus a titanic gash in the earth's crust, an unexpected step- off in the wooded mesa country.

Imagine a stupendous chasm, in places ten to thirteen miles wide from rim to rim, more than two hundred miles long in the total of its meanderings, and more than a mile deep. A mighty river, the Colorado, has chiseled out the inner granite gorge, which is flanked on each side by tier upon tier of huge architect- ural forms veritable mountains carved by erosion from the solid rock strata which lie exposed in great layers to the desert sun. And all painted in colors of the rainbow.

That's the Grand Canyon.

Other scenic wonders are viewed either on the level or looking up. The Grand Canyon, from the rim, is looked down upon. The sensation is novel abso- lutely unique, in fact. Not every visitor can at once adjust untrained eyes to this sudden shift from the usual outlook. Gradually one must become accustomed to the change from the ordinary range of vision. It is like seeing a landscape from a low-flying aeroplane.

Descend by trail, and, one after another, the Canyon forms seem to creep upward, until soon they take their place in familiar fashion along the horizon. Not until then do they assume a natural aspect.

As first glimpsed from the very edge of the abyss, the Canyon is a geologic marvel and a spiritual emotion. Below is a primeval void, hemmed in every- where, except skyward, by the solid framework of our earth rocks, and rocks, and yet more rocks, millions of years old.

At high noon the enclosing walls seem to flatten out and are strangely unim- pressive. They lack life and luster and form. They are wholly material and make scant appeal to the emotions. One is aware of bigness and deepness and stillness, but not of any mystery.

Come back to the edge of the abyss in the late afternoon, or early in the morn- ing. How marvelous the transformation! Immense forms have pushed out from the sheer walls. They float in a purple sea of mysterious shadows. It is a symphony of mass and color, of body and soul. Almost a new heaven is born and, with it, a new inferno, swathed in soft celestial fires; a whole chaotic underworld, just emptied of primeval floods and waiting for a new creative word; eluding all sense of perspective or

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El Tovar Hotel on the brink of the Canyon.

The Lookout it a quaint rough atone observatory and re«t houce on the rim near head of Bright Angel Trail. e six

dimension, outstretching the faculty of measurement, overlapping the confines of definite apprehension; a boding, terrible thing, unflinchingly real, yet spectral as a dream. Never was picture more har- monious, never flower more exquisitely beautiful. It flashes instant communi- cation of all that architecture and paint- ing and music for a thousand years have gropingly striven to express.

Thus speaks the Grand Canyon to almost every person who comes within the magic circle of its perpetual allure- ment. Joaquin Miller affirms that at the Canyon color is king. William Winter calls it "this surpassing wonder," and Hamlin Garland is most impressed by its thousand differing moods. John Muir sums it up in a striking phrase "wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval." Possibly a little girl expressed the inexpressible most simply when she remarked that it is so beautiful she would like to live here always.

A Canyon Within a System of Canyons

A canyon, truly, but not after the accepted type. An intricate system of canyons, rather, each subordinate to the river channel in the center, which in its turn is subordinate to the whole effect. That river channel, the profoundest depth, and actually more than six thousand feet below the point of view, is in seeming a rather insignificant trench, attracting the eye more by reason of its somber tone and mysterious suggestion than by any appreciable characteristic of a chasm. It is perhaps five miles distant in a straight line, and its uppermost rims are nearly four thousand feet beneath the observer. One cannot believe the dis- tance to be more than a mile as the crow flies, before descending the wall.

Yet the immediate chasm itself is only the first step of a long terrace that leads down to the innermost gorge and the river. Roll a heavy stone to the rim and let it go. It falls the height of the Eiffel tower, and explodes like a bomb on a projecting ledge. If any considerable fragments remain they bound onward, snapping trees like straws; bursting, crashing down the declivities until they make a last plunge over the brink of a void; and then there comes languidly up the cliff-sides a faint, distant roar, and

your boulder lies scattered as wide as Wycliffe's ashes, although the final frag- ment has lodged only a little way, so to speak, below the rim.

The spectacle is so symmetrical, and so completely excludes the outside world and its accustomed standards, it is with difficulty one can acquire any notion of its immensity. Were it half as deep, half as broad, it would be no less be- wildering, so utterly does it baffle human grasp.

The terrific deeps that part the walls of hundreds of castles and turrets of mountainous bulk may be approximately located in barely discernible penstrokes of detail. The comparative insignificance of what are termed grand sights in other parts of the world is now clearly revealed.

Overmastering Charm of the Panorama

Still, such particulars cannot long hold the attention, for the panorama is the real overmastering charm. It is never twice the same. The scene incessantly changes, flushing and fading, advancing into crystalline clearness, retiring into slumberous haze.

Should it chance to have rained heavily in the night, next morning the Canyon may be completely filled with fog. As the sun mounts, the curtain of mist suddenly breaks into cloud fleeces, and while you gaze these fleeces rise and dissipate, leaving the Canyon bare. At once around the bases of the lowest cliffs white puffs begin to appear and their number multiplies until once more they rise and overflow the rim, and it is as if you stood on some land's end looking down upon a formless void. Then quickly comes the complete dissipation, and again the marshaling in the depths, the upward advance, the total suffusion and the speedy vanishing, repeated over and over until the warm walls have ex- pelled their saturation.

It is, indeed, a place created by some magician's wand.

Long may the visitor loiter upon the verge, powerless to shake loose from the charm, until the sun is low in the West. Then the Canyon sinks into mysterious purple shadow, the far Shinumo Altar is tipped with a golden ray, and against a leaden horizon the long line of the Echo Cliffs reflects a soft brilliance of inde-

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Opposite Ell Tovar Hotel is a replica of a Hopi Indian house.

scribable beauty, a light that, elsewhere, surely never was on sea or land. Then darkness falls, and should there be a moon, the scene in part revives in silver light, a thousand spectral forms pro- jected from inscrutable gloom; dreams of mountains, as in their sleep they brood on things eternal.

The River as Viewed From Foot of the Trails

The traveler stands upon a sandy rift, confronted by nearly vertical walls many hundred feet high, at whose base a tawny torrent pitches in a giddying, onward slide, that gives him momentarily the sensation of slipping into an abyss.

Dwarfed by such prodigious mountain shores, which rise immediately from the water at an angle that would deny footing to a mountain sheep, it is not easy to estimate confidently the width and vol- ume of the river. Choked by the stub- born granite, its width is probably between 250 and 300 feet, its velocity fifteen miles an hour, and its volume and turmoil equal to the Whirlpool Rapids of Niagara. Its rise in time of heavy rain is rapid and appalling, for the walls shed almost instantly all the water that falls upon them. Drift is lodged in the crevices thirty feet overhead.

For only a few hundred yards is the tortuous stream visible, but its effect upon the senses is perhaps the greater for that reason. Issuing as from a mountain side, it slides with oily smooth- ness for a space and suddenly breaks into violent waves that comb back against the current and shoot unexpectedly here and there, while the volume sways, tide- like, from side to side, and long curling breakers form and hold their outline lengthwise of the shore, despite the seem- ingly irresistible velocity of the water. The river is laden with drift (huge tree trunks), which it tosses like chips in its terrible play.

As it is Written in the Archives

The Colorado is one of the great rivers of North America. Formed in Southern Utah by the confluence of the Green and the Grand, it intersects the northwestern corner of Arizona, and flows southward until it reaches tidewater in the Gulf of California. It drains a territory of 300,000 square miles. At three points, Needles, Parker and Yuma on the Cali- fornia boundary, it is crossed by a rail- road. Elsewhere its course lies far from the routes of common travel.

The early Spanish explorers at first reported it in 1 540. Again in 1 776, a Spanish priest found a crossing at a

Fade e i & h t

The Grand Canyon is the most instructive example of one of the chief factors of earth-building erosion.

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place that still bears the name "Vado de los Padres."

For more than eighty years thereafter the Big Canyon remained unvisited except by the Indian, the Mormon herdsman, and the trapper, although the Sitgreaves expedition of 1851, journeying westward, struck the river about one hundred and fifty miles above Yuma, and Lieutenant Whipple in 1854 made a survey for a practicable railroad route along the thirty-fifth parallel, where a railroad afterwards was constructed.

In 1857 the War Department dis- patched an expedition in charge of Lieutenant Ives to explore the Colorado upstream to the head of navigation. Ives ascended to the head of Black Canyon; then returning to the Needles, he set off northeast across country. He reached the Canyon at Diamond and Cataract Creeks in the spring of 1858, and made a wide southward detour around the San Francisco Peaks, thence to the Hopi Pueblos, to Fort Defiance, and back to civilization.

It remained for a geologist and a school-teacher, a one-armed veteran of the Civil War, John Wesley Powell, afterward director of the United States Geological Survey, to dare and to ac- complish the exploration of the mighty river.

In 1869 Major Powell started with nine

men and four boats from Green River City, in Utah. Powell launched his flotilla on May 24th, and on August 30th landed at the mouth of the Virgin River, more than one thousand miles by river channel from starting place, minus two boats and four men. There proved to be no impassable whirlpools in the Grand Canyon, no underground passages and no cataracts. But the trip was hazardous in the extreme. The adventurers faced the unknown at every bend, daily, often several times daily, embarking upon swift rapids without guessing upon what rocks or in what great falls they might terminate. Con- tinually they upset.

Again, in 1871, he started down river with three boats and went as far as the Crossing of the Fathers. In the summer of 1872 he returned to the row boats at Lee's Ferry, and descended as far as the mouth of Kanab Wash, where the river journey was abandoned.

Powell's journal of the initial trip is a most fascinating tale, written in a com- pact and modest style, which, in spite of its reticence, tells an epic story of purest heroism. It definitely established the scene of his exploration as the most wonderful geological and spectacular phenomenon known to mankind, and justified the name which had been bestowed upon it the Grand Canyon.

F Jrrrnit Rim F

ilevard on the very brink of the Grand Canyon.

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El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel Cottages from Maricopa Point.

Since that day several expeditions have traversed the same route, each experienc- ing thrills enough for a lifetime. Powell easily ranks at the top of the list. Not only was he a pioneer, but his daring was for the sake of scientific knowledge.

Canyon Geology

The average man measures long per- iods of time by centuries. The geologist reckons otherwise. To him a hundred

years are but the tick of a clock, the passing of a summer cloud. He deals in aeons as others do in minutes, and thus is able to measure, after a fashion, almost inconceivable time.

Searching for a convenient yardstick, the building of our earth is first thought of as divided into four eras. Periods are lesser divisions of the eras. In the pro- terozoic era there are two periods archaean and algonkian. The "paleozoic

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era has six periods the cambrian, ordo- vician, silurian, devonian, carboniferous and permian. The mesozoic era divides into the triassic, Jurassic and cretaceous periods. The cenozoic era has five periods eocene, oligocene, miocene, pliocene and pleistocene.

These four periods particularly must be borne in mind, because they are the primer of Canyon geology, viz., the archaean, algonkian, cambrian and carboniferous rocks, which are among the very oldest of earth's strata. The later rocks un- doubtedly were here once nearly 12,000 feet of them on top of what today is top, but in some remote age they were shaved off.

Yet the Canyon itself is accounted geologically modern. It happened, so scientists say, only yesterday.

Stand almost anywhere on the south rim and look at the north wall, which is the southern limit of the Kaibab plateau. That north rim is three times as far from the Colorado River as is the south rim, and is 1,000 to 1,500 feet higher, viz., 5,500 to 6,000 feet above the river, compared with 4,500 feet. It is like a section of layer cake, each layer of different material and color or like gigantic beds of titanic masonry.

Begin at the top and go down. For the first 3,000 feet or more, the wall descends by cliffs, steep slopes and

narrow ledges. Next comes a wide terrace, the Tonto platform. Lastly appears the inner granite gorge, V-shaped and 1,000 to 1,200 feet deep, with the river flowing at the bottom in a trench 250 to 300 feet wide.

The light buff formation at the top is the Kaibab limestone.

Beneath this is another light-colored formation, the crossbedded Coconino gray sandstone, presenting a sheer face.

The next is of bright red color, due to oxide of iron; it consists of alternating beds of hard sandstone cliff and soft shale slopes, about 1,100 feet thick, and known as the Supai formation.

Farther down is the Red wall or "blue" limestone, 550 feet thick and very hard, so finely grained it seems to be a single bed; its precipitous cliffs are stained red by wash from the strata above; in this formation occurs Jacob's Ladder, on Bright Angel Trail, and Cathedral Stairs, on Hermit Trail.

These were laid down during the car- boniferous period.

The horizontal formations below the red wall form the Tonto group, of the Cambrian period. In order, from top to bottom, they are Muav limestone, thin-banded and grayish green; Bright Angel shale, 325 feet; and the basic rocks Tapeats sandstone, hard and brown, forming the floor of the Tonto platform.

Where Hermit Road ends and Hermit Trail begin* is a unique rest house called Hermit's Rest.

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The '.'Devil's Corkscrew" it a spiral pathway down an almost perpendicular wall on the Bright Angel Trail.

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You may notice that these strata are not at the same height everywhere. This is due to fractures or "faults," along which the rocks on one side are much lower than on the other.

All these nearly horizontal strata rest on a level surface of archaean and algonkian rocks, through which the river has cut a lower inner gorge.

That, in brief, is what you see today.

Geologists agree that the rocks of each period represent an uplift and subsidence of the upper crust, extending over in- calculable time, each subsidence being followed by sedimentary deposits on the sea bottom, ultimately forming a new series of rocks.

Imagine this huge mass, say three and a half miles thick, gradually lifted up, and forming a plateau with an area of 13,000 to 15,000 square miles. The top two-thirds, except an isolated butte here and there, was next eliminated by erosion, and then the Colorado River began to cut the Grand Canyon through the lower third.

Nobody knows to what extent, if any, earthquake disturbances originally may have helped to make the Grand Canyon, but the masterful influence of erosion is plainly to be seen. The Canyon has not stopped changing. Every decade it gets a fraction deeper and wider, by erosion only.

Roadside erosion is familiar to us all. A hundred times we have idly noted the fantastic water-carved walls and minar- etted slopes of ordinary ditches. But seldom, perhaps, have we realized that the muddy roadside ditch and the world- famous Grand Canyon of the Colorado River are, from Nature's standpoint, identical; that they differ only in soil and size.

An All-The-Year Resort

The Grand Canyon is more than some- thing stupendous to look at. It is a place for rest and recreation. It may be visited any day in the year. When most other mountain resorts are frozen up, the titan of chasms is easily accessible. During the winter snow falls in the pine forest along the rim, and the upper sec- tions of the trails to the river are covered with a white blanket. Nevertheless one may venture muleback down any of the principal trails, confident that spring soon

will begin to peek out timidly and early summer appear just around the turn. For, going down, the climate changes perceptibly every few hundred feet, so that when on the rim a nipping frost is in the air there are fragile desert flowers blooming along the river gulches.

The weather in July or August is not torrid, except at the very bottom of the giant cleft. Up above, the rim is almost a mile and a half above sea-level. That means cool mornings, evenings and nights Only at noon in the summer months does the thermometer register a high figure yet because of absence of moisture, in midsummer one moves about in perfect comfort during the day and sleeps under a blanket at night.

Go down in summer and the tempera ture comes up; come up in winter and the temperature goes down. The difference of nearly a mile in altitude between the Colorado River and Canyon rim is like traveling hundreds of miles north 01 south on the level.

Also high altitude means cool summers while southerly latitude means warm winters, as a rule which explains wh> the Grand Canyon is an ideal resort the year 'round.

As a rule, too, this part of Arizona is a land of sunshine; the air is dry and th wind velocity is under the average. Eas> drives, in the stimulating atmosphere oi Arizona, a mile and a half up in the sky soothe tired brain and nerves. Mon vigorous is the horseback exercise, taker through the parklike glades and reaches of Tusayan Forest.

While spring and fall perhaps are more attractive than midsummer or midwinter each season has its special lure. Camp- ing, during the December - to - March period, is restricted to the inner canyon region. The boulevard rim drives, and the south wall trails are open from January to January. So are the hotels.

Most persons make the mistake of trying to see the Canyon in too short a time. They rush in, rush around, and rush out. That's the wrong way. The right way is to take it leisurely.

A Pullman brings one to the very rim. While it is possible to get a hasty glimpse in a day, this hurried day must be spent either on the rim or in a rush down the trail to the river's edge; it is not possible to do both between sunrise and sunset,

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A noted feature of Bright Angel Trail is Jacob's Ladder. The Tonto Trail follows the inner gorge, thousands of feet below fhe rim.

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and both rim and river are well worth a day for each.

It is much better to plan to stay at least two full days, allowing one of them for the trail to the river and the other for rim drives. Or, combine both in the Hermit Rim drive and Hermit Trail trip, with a night in the Canyon.

Four or five days will enable you to really see this sublime spectacle. Viewed from above, it is an emotional experience. Descend mule-back over trails which zigzag steeply but safely down the cliffs, and the experience is altogether different.

Accommodations for Travelers

On arrival at the Canyon the traveler finds ample hotel accommodations, suitable enter- tainment for leisure hours, and complete facili- ties for outing trips. The saddle horses, mules and coach animals are specially trained for Western roads and trails. The vehicles are comparable to those found at Eastern resorts. Drivers and guides are experienced. The ex- cellent hotels cater to all classes of visitors.

El Tovar One of the most unique resort hotels in the Southwest is located at the rail- road terminus, near head of Bright Angel Trail, at an elevation of 6,866 feet above sea-level. It is named El Tovar, and is under management of Fred Harvey.

It is a long, low structure, built of native boulders and pine logs. There are ninety-three

sleeping-rooms, accommodating 1 75 guests. Forty-six of these rooms are connected with private bath.

There is a music-room, and rendezvous. In the main dining-room 165 persons can be seated at one time.

Hot and cold water, steam heat and electric light are supplied. El Tovar also has a steam laundry.

El Tovar Hotel is conducted on the American plan, i. e., room and meals both included. Rooms without bath, $5 a day for one person and $9 a day for two persons occupying same room; rooms with bath, $7 to $8 and upward for one person, and $12 to $15 a day and up- ward for two persons occupying same room. Meals only: breakfast and luncheon, $1 each; dinner, $1.50.

Bright Angel Cottages Cozy lodgings in cottages or tents at Bright Angel Cottages, adjacent to El Tovar, cost $1.00 to $1.50 a day, each person; meals are furnished a la carte at the cafe. The accommodations are clean and comfortable. There are four cottages, open the year round and several large tents for sum- mer only. All of the cottages have steam heat and electric light; one cottage also has baths. About 1 50 persons can be accommodated here. Kitchen facilities are ample for quick, a la carte service.

Grand View Hotel This hotel, located at Grand View, thirteen miles east of the railroad station, is under management of Mr. P. D.

From the plateau there are many fine views of the inner canyon formi

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Camping in the Tusayan Forest on the rim.

Berry. It is a large frame edifice, with log cabin annex, and can accommodate about fifty guests in season. Not open for regular traffic in winter.

The Lookout The Lookout is a quaint observatory and resthouse, built on the edge of the rim near head of Bright Angel Trail.

It is equipped with a large binocular telescope in the tower, for observing the most distant reaches of the Canyon by day and for viewing the heavens by night. There is a small library for the layman and scientist. Canyon maps and photos are displayed. The reception-room has spacious windows, a fireplace, Navajo rugs and easy chairs; it is electric lighted and steam heated.

Hopi House Opposite El Tovar is a repro- duction of the dwellings of the Hopi Indians and several Navajo hogans.

In the Hopi House are installed collections of Indian handiwork. Here also live a small band of Hopis. These are the most primitive In- dians in our country. Their ceremonies are hundreds of years old, the most famous being that of the snake dance. The men weave blankets and the women make pottery. The Navajos weave fine blankets which find a ready market and the silversmiths fashion their arti- cles, mostly bracelets and rings, from Mexican coin silver. Supai Indians from Cataract Can- yon frequently visit El Tovar.

Hermit's Rest— Where Hermit Rim Road ends and Hermit Trail begins is a unique rest-

house, built into the hill, with a roofed-in porch and parapet wall. As the name implies, it is intended to provide rest and shelter for parties who take the Rim Road drive, or the Hermit Trail trip. Guests may sit at the tables outside or sheltered by the glass front inside, according to weather, and enjoy a light lunch in unusual surroundings. Admission is by ticket.

The Trails Down to the River There are but four points from which a descent may be made of the south wall of the Grand Canyon in the vicinity of the granite gorge:

1. At Grand View, down Grand View Trail.

2. At El Tovar, down Bright Angel Trail.

3. At Hermit Basin, down Hermit Trail.

4. West of Havasupai Point, down Bass Trail.

Hermit and Bright Angel trails are regularly used and are kept in excellent condition. Grand View and Bass Trails are used infrequently.

The Canyon is accessible over trails at other places outside of the district named, such as Lee's Ferry Trail, by wagon from Winslow, and Hopi Indian Trail, by way of Little Colorado Canyon; but tourists take the El Tovar and Hermit routes because of the superior facilities there offered.

It is near Grand View that Marble Canyon ends and the Grand Canyon proper begins. Northward, eighteen miles away, is the mouth of the Little Colorado Canyon. From Grand View the beginning of the granite gorge is seen.

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Overlooking the Colorado River from Plateau Point. Th« Coloardo River at foot of Bright Angel Trail.

El Tovar is approximately in the center, Hermit a little west of center, and Bass Trail at the western end of the granite gorge. By auto road it is about thirteen miles from El Tovar east to Grand View, eight miles west to Hermit, and twenty-four miles west to Bass Trail.

Hermit Rim Road

A scenic roadway, Hermit Rim Road, has been built from El Tovar westward to the head of Her- mit Basin, seven and a half miles. It is like a city boulevard in the wilderness. 1 1 closely follows the rim, by way of Hopi and Mohave Points, to Pima Point, and thence along the east side of Hermit Basin to top of Hermit Trail. In many places there is a sheer drop of 2,000 feet within a rod of the rim.

Along the entire route the gigantic panorama of the Grand Canyon unfolds itself for miles and miles, with views of Tusayan Forest, the Cataract country, and, far to the west, the purple peaks of the Uinkarets.

Powell Monument, on Sentinel Point, was erected by the U. S. Government as a memorial to Major John W. Powell, the first Canyon explorer. This massive monument is constructed of native rock and represents an Aztec sacrificial altar.

Regular Trip Drives by Coach There are several interesting "regular trip" drives by coach. They are popular with everybody, the expense being moderate. A list follows:

Hopi Point El Tovar to Hopi Point, two miles west, and back; first trip starts at 10 a. m. ; rate, $1.00. Second trip leaves at 2 p. m.; rate, $1.00. Third trip leaves at an hour timed to reach the point before sunset; rate, $1.50.

Mohave Point Three miles west; leaves 9 a. m. and 2 p. m.; rate, $2.

Hermit Rim Road Fifteen miles round trip once in the forenoon and once in the afternoon. The first starts at 9 a. m. and reaches El Tovar, returning, at 1 p. m.; rate, $3. The second starts at 2 p. m., and reaches El Tovar, returning, about 5:30 p. m. ; rate, $3. Stops are made en route at Hopi, Mohave and Pima points. Rates named also include use of facilities and light refreshments at Hermit's Rest.

Yavapai and Grandeur Points This drive extends two miles east of El Tovar; start 10:15 a. m.; rate, $1.

Private Conveyance Rates Where private carriages or coaches are desired, an extra charge of $2 is made for entire party, besides the individual rate for regular service.

As an example the rate for regular trip to end of rim road is $3 each person. If one person desires to make this trip in a special convey- ance, that person would pay $5; if two persons go, the entire expense would be $8; for three persons, $11; and so on up to six. The $2 extra is collected for the party as a whole, and not individually.

Rates for special autos vary with service performed.

Note If the demand for regular trip driven is no heavy as to require use of all conveyances available, private carriages or coaches will be discontinued temporarily.

Regular Trip Drives by Auto With th<-

rapid development of good roads in Northern Arizona, the use of the auto for seeing this sec- tion enables visitors to get around quickly and with comfort. One easily can make the detour to the Canyon from either Flagstaff or Williams over good natural roads, which for two-thirds of the way, run over a rolling plain. To care for increasing auto travel, a large stone garage has been built at the Canyon, with ample facilities for parking, repairing and supplying cars.

Some of the "regular" auto trips are mentioned below. Autos are not permitted on Hermit Rim Road, nor on the road to Yavapai Point, nor on road from Rowe Well to Hopi Point. This is a regulation of the United States Govern- ment to safeguard travel by coach along the rim. There are no such restrictions elsewhere in this vicinity.

Special rates are made for special auto service.

Grand View The round trip to Grand View Point, thirteen miles each way, is made by automobile in about three and a half hours, allowing sufficient time to visit the nearby outlooks. Leave El Tovar 9:30 a. m. and 2 p. m. daily; rate, $3. The ride is through the tallest pines of the Tusayan Forest, via Long Jim Canyon and Thor's Hammer.

From Grand View may be seen that section of the Canyon from Bright Angel Creek to Marble Canyon, including the great bend of the Col- orado. On the eastern wall are Moran, Zuni, Papago, Pinal, Navaho (Desert View) and Comanche points; and the mouth of the Little Colorado River. Still further beyond is the Painted Desert and Navaho Mountain the latter plainly seen, though one hundred and twenty miles away. The rim trail to Moran Point is interesting. Grand View Trail enters the Canyon near Grand View Point.

Desert View At this point there is a far outlook not only into the Canyon above the granite gorge, where the river valley widens, but also across the Painted Desert, toward Hopi-

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Motoring through pine forest on way to Grand View. Grand View Hotel.

Detroit Publishing Co.

land, and along the Desert Palisades to the mouth of the Little Colorado. At sunset and sunrise it is a glorious sight. For that reason one preferably should arrange to stay over- night — a camping trip, elsewhere referred to. Where time is an object the run may be made by auto there and back in a day, as soon as the necessary road improvements have been finished.

The distance is thirty-two miles each way, via Grand View, Hull Tank, Trash Dam, Tanner Tank, old Aztec ruin, and head of Tanner Trail. Two round trips a day, leaving El Tovar 9 a. m. and return by I :30 p. m. Rate for one person, $20; for two persons, $10 each; for three or more persons up to capacity of car, $8 each. Special auto for parties of six persons or less, $48; lunch extra, except for El Tovar room guests.

Flagstaff It is about eighty-five miles, El Tovar to Flagstaff, via Grand View, Lockett's Lake. Skinner's Wash, Moki Wash and San Francisco Peaks, over a main traveled road, on which a good run is possible most of the year. The round trip requires about two days.

This is a very enjoyable drive through pine forests and across green mesas along the old- time stage route to the Canyon. The town of Flagstaff is located in the heart of the San Francisco uplift. In this vicinity are pre- historic cliff dwellings, extinct craters, volcanic cones, lava beds and ice caves. The summit of

Humphrey's Peak, one of the peaks forming the San Francisco Mountains, is 12,750 feet high.

Hermit Trail A pathway down the south wall of the Grand Canyon, named Hermit Trail, has been built from end of Hermit Rim Road to the Colorado River. One can take carriage from El Tovar to head of Hermit Trail, and go as far down as the plateau, muleback a two- days' round trip, spending the night at Hermit Camp. Hermit-Tonto-Bright Angel Loop camp- ing trip, requiring two to three days, includes the rim road and three trails, Hermit, Tonto and Bright Angel.

Hermit Trail is four feet wide. The descent is accomplished by a series of easy grades. A southern exposure for the first thousand feet at top, renders it comparatively free in winter. The lower section opens into the main Canyon along Hermit Creek.

On the plateau, at the foot of a lofty peak, Hermit Camp has been built a central dining- hall and eleven tents with accommodations for thirty persons. Excellent camp meals are pro- vided. The tents have pine floors and sides, beds, rugs, and other conveniences.

The upper part of Hermit Trail leads down into Hermit Basin, on the western slope, to where the red wall begins. From Red Top to the head of Cathedral Stairs the way leads along the steep east wall of Hermit Gorge, almost on a level.

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At Cathedral Stairs there is an abrupt descent through the blue limestone by a succession of short zigzags. From camp to Colorado River there is a new trail. The river view at Hermit Rapids is one of the finest along the Colorado. These rapids are narrow, long, and very rough.

Hermit Trail is distinguished from all the others by its wide views of the big Canyon nearly every rod of the way.

Hermit Camp Overnight This trip takes two days and one night. Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit Trail; down Hermit Trail; stay overnight at Hermit Camp; go to River foot of Hermit Creek; return up Hermit Trail to rim; thence Rim Road.

Start from El Tovar or Bright Angel Cottages at 9 a. m., and return next afternoon. Round- trip charge is $16 for each person; private guide, $5 a day extra, rate quoted includes regular guide, overnight accommodations and meals en route.

Hermit-Tonto-Bright Angel Loop This trip takes two days and one night. Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit Trail; down Hermit Trail; stay over night at Hermit Camp; go to River foot of Hermit Creek; return along Ton to Trail to Indian Garden ; thence up Bright Angel Trail.

Start from El Tovar or Bright Angel Cottages at 9 a. m., and return next afternoon. Round- trip charge is $23 for each person; private guide $5 a day extra; rate quoted includes regular

guide, over-night accommodations and meals en route.

Note This trip can be lengthened to three days and two nights by spending an extra night in the Canyon, also going to River at foot of Bright Angel Trail a 34-mile journey. Rate. $14 a day. one person: $8 a day extra each additional person; provisions extra; includes guide.

Bright Angel Trail The trail here ia gen- erally open the year 'round. In midwinter it is liable to be closed for a day or two at the top by snow, but such blockade is not frequent. The trail reaches from the hotel seven miles to Colorado River, with a branch terminating at the top of the granite wall immediately over- looking the river. At this latter point the stream is 1 ,272 feet below, while El Tovar hotel on the rim is 3,158 feet above. The trip is made on muleback, accompanied by a guide.

Those wishing to reach the river leave the main trail at Indian Garden and follow the downward course of Indian Garden and Pipe creeks. A feature of this section is a spiral pathway up an almost perpendicular wall.

Another noted feature is Jacob's Ladder, cut across the face of hard blue limestone rock.

For the first two miles it is indeed a sort of Jacob's ladder, zigzagging at an unrelenting pitch. At the end of two miles the blue lime- stone level is reached some 2,500 feet below the rim, that is to say for such figures have to be impressed objectively upon the mind five times the height of St. Peter's, the Pyramid of Cheops, or the Strasburg Cathedral; eight times the height of the Bartholdi Statue of Liberty;

At Desert View there is a far outlook into the Canyon and across the Painted Desert toward Hopiland.

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and eleven times the height of Bunker Hill Monument. Looking back from this level the huge towers that border the rim shrink to pig- mies and seem to crown a perpendicular wall, unattainably far in the sky. Yet less than one- half of the descent has been made.

Leave at 8:30 a. m. for the river trip, seven miles; return to rim 5:30 p. m.; rate, $5 each person. Leave 10:30 a. m. for trip to plateau five miles; rate, $4 each. To plateau and river same day, rate $6 for each person; start at 8 a. m. Rates quoted above are for each person in parties of three or more. For special trips with less than three persons there is a party charge of $5 extra for guide. Lunch extra, except for El Tovar room guests.

It is necessary that visitors who walk down Bright Angel Trail and desire that guide and mules be sent to meet them, be charged full price and special guide fee of $5. This is un- avoidable, as the mules and guides are not available for any other trip, and in addition a toll fee of $1 must be paid by the management for each animal, whether the entire trail trip is made or not.

Camping Trips Camping trips with pack and saddle animals, or with wagon and saddle animals, are organized, completely equipped, and placed in charge of experienced guides.

For climatic reasons it is well to arrange so that camping trips during the season from October to April are mainly confined to the inner Canyon. For the remainder of the year, i. e., April to October, they may be planned to include both the Canyon itself and the rim country.

The rates vary from $10 to $15 a day for one person; $6 to $8 a day each additional person. Such rates specially include services of guide and camp equipment; provisions extra; figures quoted are approximate only, varying with different outings.

Dripping Spring This trip is made on horseback all the way, or carriage to rim and saddle horses down trail; ten miles west, start at 8:30 a. m. ; rate, $4 each for three or more persons; for less than three persons, $5 extra for guide. Private parties of three or more persons, $5 extra for guide.

Cataract Canyon and Havasupai Village

- The best time to visit this place is from May to October. A journey of about fifty miles, first by wagon or auto, thirty-five miles, across a timbered plateau, then on horseback down Topocobya Trail, along Topocobya and Cataract canyons, to the home of the Havasupai Indians.

The home of this little band ofJ/200 Indians is in Cataract Canyon, a tributary of the Grand Canyon, deep down in the earth two-fifths of a mile. The situation is romantic, and the sur- roundings are beautified by falls of water over precipices several hundred feet high, backed by grottoes of stalactites and stalagmites. This water all comes from springs that gush forth in surprising volume near the Havasupai village.

The baskets made by the Havasupai women consist of the burden basket, a shallow tray and a water bottle of willow. Those made by the older weavers are of fine mesh, with attractive designs and bring good prices. No other Indians know so well how to cook meat, seeds and mush in coiled willow trays lined with clay.

This tribe is allied to the Wallapai, their near neighbors on the west, and both speak the same language, with slight variation of dialect. Havasupai means people of the blue water. Padre Garces was the first white man to visit their canyon home. In early days the Havasu- pais undoubtedly were cliff dwellers. They built nearly all the Grand Canyon trails, or rather their rude pathways were the advance guard of the present trails. Their summer homes resemble those of the Apaches. The winter homes afford more protection against the weather.

The round trip from El Tovar is made in three days, at an expense of $15 a day for one person, $20 a day for two persons, and $25 a day for three persons. Each additional member of party, $5 a day. Provisions extra. These rates include service for party of one or two persons, also cost of horse feed, but do not in- clude board and lodging at Supai Village for members of party and guide while stopping with Indian agent, who charges $2 a day for each person.

For parties of three to six persons an extra guide is required, whose services are charged for at $5 a day, besides his board and lodging at the village.

Note At the western end of the granite gorge is a trail down to the Colorado River and up the other side to Point Sublime and Powell's Plateau, the river being crossed by ferry. Reached by team from El Tovar. a distance of twenty-four miles, or it can be seen as a detour on the Cataract Canyon trip; rates on application.

Desert View Elsewhere reference is made to Desert View auto trip. When taken by wagon, it occupies three days, leaving El Tovar morning of first day and returning afternoon of third day, with all-night camp at destination. Rate, $10 for one person, and $5 each additional person; provisions extra; rate named includes one guide; an extra guide costs $5 a day.

Little Colorado River The trip to the mouth of the Little Colorado is a most interest-

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At Cathedral Stairs, on Hermit Trail, there is an abrupt descent through the blue limestone by a succession of short zigzags.

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ing one. Leaving Ell Tovar in the morning by wagon, camp is made the first day at Deer Tank. The next day the Cliff Dwellings are visited, and the plateau overlooking the Canyon of the Little Colorado is reached by midday. From the edge of the plateau to the bottom of the Canyon is a straight drop of 2,500 feet.

Painted Desert and Hopiland The trip is made with saddle and pack animals. The first night the camp is at Saddle Horse Tanks. Hopi Crossing of the Little Colorado is reached the next afternoon and Tuba City the third day. The Hopi village of Moenkopie is seen en route.

The Painted Desert country affords a most interesting study of a phase of Indian entertain- ment, little known to white people.

Horseback Trips The Far West ranges are the home of the horse. Here the pinto, cayuse and broncho truly belong. Here they grow strong of limb and swift of foot.

Recently many new bridle paths along the rim and through the pines of Tusayan have been opened up, so that horseback riding now is possible for all. The animals are well trained and dependable. Saddle-horses cost $4 a day, or $2.50 a half day. English, McLellan, Whitman or Western stock saddles furnished as requested. Side saddles not provided. The rate for special guides is $5 a day, or $2.50 a half day. Horse- back trips over any of the trails into the Canyon are only permitted when accompanied by guide. This is necessary to avoid risk in meeting trail parties and pack trains.

Time Required While one ought to re- main a week or two, a stopover of three or four days from the transcontinental trip will be quite satisfactory. The Hermit overnight camping trip requires one day and night. One day should be devoted to a carriage ride along the Hermit Rim Road, and by auto to Grand View. Another day go down Bright Angel Trail and back. A fourth day spent in short walks to nearby points, or on horseback, will enable

CROSS SCCT10N SHOWING ROCK STRATA IN GRAND CANYON

visitors to get more intimate views. Hermit Loop three-day camping trip, down one trail and up another, is well worth while.

The National Park Service of the Department of the Interior recommends to the traveling pul lie that stop-overs of as long duration as practi- cable be planned at points within the Parks, that Grand Canyon National Park be regard* not alone as a region which may be glimpsed on a hurried trip, but also as a vacation playgroui for rest and recreation.

One-Day Outings In one day any one < the following combinations of regular round trips may be taken at the Canyon, from El Tovar or Bright Angel Cottages:

1. (a) Hermit Rim Road, coach to head of

Hermit Trail, $3. (b) Auto to Grand View, $3.

2. (a) Hermit Rim Road, coach to head of

Hermit Trail, $3.

(b) Hermit Trail to Santa Maria Spring, $4; guide extra.

3. Bright Angel Trail to Plateau ($4) or river

($5).

4. (a) Coach to Yavapai Point, $1.

(b) Coach to Hopi Point, $1 and $1.50.

5. Bright Angel Trail to river and plateau, $6;

guide extra.

Two-Day Outings In two days any one of these regular trip combinations may be taken:

1. (a) Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit

Trail; Hermit Trail to Plateau Camp

and river; return same route; $16.

Note. For return via Tonto and Bright

Angel Trails, instead of Hermit Trail, add $7,

each person.

2. (a) Bright Angel Trail to Plateau; round

trip, $4.

(b) Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit

Trail, round trip, $3.

(c) Grand View auto, round trip, $3.

What to Wear If much tramping is done, stout, thick shoes should be provided. Ladies will find that short walking skirts are a con- venience; divided skirts are preferable, but not essential, for the horseback journey down the zigzag trail. Traveling caps and (in summer) broad-brimmed straw hats are useful adjuncts. Otherwise ordinary clothing will suffice. Divided skirts and straw hats may be rented at El Tovar Hotel.

Flora and Fauna Grand Canyon National Park is bordered on the north by the Kaibab National Forest and on the south by the Tusayan National Forest. In fact, a part of each of these forests is now within the boundaries of the Park.

In this high forested region, the climatic diversity on the rim and in the depths is indicated all year, by the wild flowers, shrubs and trees. On the rim are the pines, cedars, junipers, pinyon and mesquite, also the cactus, "rose of the desert," the cholla and ocatillo, the yucca or Spanish bayonet, and many brilliantly colored wild flowers. The farther down one goes, the greater the change becomes. The pines drop

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On the plateau at base of Hermit Point U Hermit Camp.

Hermit Trail it four feet wide, with a low protecting wall on the outeide. The Colorado River at foot of Hermit Trail.

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out, then the cedar, juniper and pinyons. Many new wild flowers appear.

There is a wide range of bird life, such as the golden eagle, wild turkey, sage-hen, mocking- bird, and the noisy magpie. Humming-birds and Canyon wrens are seen everywhere.

The North Rim About two hundred miles to the southeast of Lund, Utah, by auto highway, is Bright Angel Point, on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The journey will make an appeal to those who aim to get away from the usual and into the primitive. No regular schedules are avilable for the entire distance; and tourists must be satisfied with the homelike ac- commodations of remote villages en route and comfortable camps at the Canyon rim.

The route from Lund is thirty-five miles to Cedar City, forty-four miles from Cedar City to Hurricane, sixty-nine miles from Hurricane to Fredonia and sixty-three miles from Fredonia to Grand Canyon National Park.

The tour embraces several zones of altitude. At Cedar City the climate is comparable with that of Salt Lake City; southward the road drops downward two thousand feet through the Hurricane Fault into Utah's "Dixie," a gar- den spot of semi-tropical vegetation and quaint Mormon settlements. South of Hurricane the route is across a land of Zane Grey's "Purple Sage," and upward for sixty miles along the magnificent stretches of the Kaibab Plateau, whose southern escarpment, at an altitude of 8,000 feet, is the northern wall of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. These last sixty miles are through the Kaibab forest, a national reserve which exhibits on a grand scale one of the largest forests of giant pines in the United States. The high, dry, bracing pine-laden air, the forest aisles, and occasional glimpses of wild deer, make this ride a fitting prelude to the silent symphony of the Grand Canyon itself.

How to Reach the Park

Grand Canyon National Park is directly reached by a branch line of railroad extending sixty-four miles northward from Williams, Ariz. In certain trains through standard sleeping cars are operated to and from Grand Canyon station. Passengers using other trains and stopping over at Williams will find adequate accommodations at the Fray Marcos, station hotel.

Excursion Tickets

Stop-overs at Williams are permitted on round-trip and one-way tickets, all classes, read- ing to points beyond also on Pullman tickets. Side-trip fare from Williams to Grand Canyon and return is $7.60. Round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are on sale daily at prac- tically all stations in the United States and Can- ada to Grand Canyon, as a destination.

Baggage

Baggage may be checked through to Grand Canyon station, if required. Passengers making brief side-trips to Grand Canyon may check bag- gage to Williams only or through to destination. Certain regulations for free storage of baggage for Grand Canyon passengers are in effect.

The route to the North Rim is elsewhere described.

% Park Administration

Grand Canyon National Park is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Ser- vice, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Grand Canyon, Ariz.

An exceptional snow fall on the rim of the Grand Canyon.

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Navajo woman spinning wool.

Hopi Indian women weaving.

A Supai maiden from Cataract Canyon. P a & e twenty-nine

Grand Canyon railroad station. Trail party in front of Bright Angel Cottages.

Horseback party in Tusayan Forest. Monument to Maj. J. W. Powell, first explorer of Grand Canyon.

U. S. Government Publications

The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C.,

Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated.

Map of National Parks and National Monu- ments. Shows location of all of the national parks and monuments, and railroad routes to these reservations.

The following publication may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at price given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash.

The National Parks Portfolio. By Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages, 270 illustrations. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. Contains nine sections, each descriptive of national park.

U. S. R. R. Administration Publications

The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111.

Arizona and New Mexico Rockies

California for the Tourist

Colorado and Utah Rockies

Crater Lake National Park. Oregon

Glacier National Park. Montana

Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona

Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands

Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas

Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado

Mount Rainier National Park, Washington

Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Michigan.

Iowa, and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. California Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. Montana. Idaho Yosemite National Park. California Zion National Monument. Utah

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The National Parks at a glance

United States Railroad Administration

Director General of Railroads

For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to~any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following United States Railroad Administration Consolidated Ticket Offices:

West

Lincoln, Neb 104 N. 13th St.

Little Rock. Ark. . .202 W. 2d St.

Beaumont. Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts.

Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St.

Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St.

Chicago. Ill 175 W. Jackson Blvd.

Colorado Springs, Colo.

119 E. Pike's Peak Ave.

Dallas. Tex I 12-1 14 Field St.

Denver. Colo 601 17th St.

Des Moines, Iowa 403 Walnut St.

Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St.

El Paso, Tex .... Mills and Oregon Sts.

702 Houston St.

. . . . J and Fresno Sts.

21st and Market Sts.

58 S. Main St.

904 Texas Ave.

Ft. Worth. T. Fresno, Cal . . . . Galveston, Tex. Helena, Mont. . Houston, Tex . . Kansas City, M Ry. Ex. Bid

Long Beach, Cal . . L. A. & S. L Station Los Angeles. Cal . . . .215 S. Broadway

Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St.

Minneapolis. Minn.. 202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway

Ocean Park, Cal 160 Pier Ave.

Oklahoma City. Okla.

131 W. Grand Ave.

Omaha, Neb 1416 Dodge St

Peoria, III. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts.

g.. 7th and Walnut Sts.

Annapolis. Md 54 Maryland Ave.

Atlantic City. N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore, Md. . . .B. & O. R. R. Bldg.

Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St.

Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St.

Buffalo. N. Y. .Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts.

Cleveland. Ohio 1004 Prospect Ave.

Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St.

Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St.

Asheville, N. C 14 S. Polk Square

Atlanta, Ga 74 Peachtree St.

Augusta. Ga 811 Broad St.

St. Paul. Minn . .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento. Cal 801 K St.

Salt Lake City. Utah

Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio, Tex.

315-17 N. St. Mary's St.

San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway

San Francisco, Cal

Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal., 1 st and San Fernando Sts.

Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave.

Shreveport, La., Milarn and Market Sts. 510 4th St.

Sioux City, Iowa

Spokane. Wash.

Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave.

Tacoma. Wash. ..1117-19 Pacific Ave. 6th and Franklin Sts. L. A. & S. L. Station .... 226 Portage Ave.

Waco. Tex.... Whittier. Cal.. Winnipeg, Man

Phoenix, Ariz.

Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore. .3d and Washington Sts.

Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave.

St. Joseph, Mo 505 Francis St.

St. Louis, Mo.

318-328 North Broadway

East

Detroit, Mich ... 1 3 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . . L. & N. R. R. Bldg

Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St.

Indianapolis. Ind.. I 12-14 English Block Newark, N. J., Clinton and Beaver Sts.

New York, N. Y 64 Broadway

New York, N. Y 57 Chambers St.

New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St.

New York. N. Y I 14 W. 42d St

South

Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St.

Lexington. Ky Union Station

Louisville, Ky . . . .4th and Market Sts.

Lynchburg, Va 722 Main St.

Memphis, Tenn 60 N. Main St.

Mobile, Ala 51 S. Royal St.

Montgomery, Ala Exchange Hotel

Nashville, Tenn. Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans, La St. Charles Hotel

For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building. Chicago.

Birmingham, Ala. Charleston, S. C. . Charlotte. N. C. . . . Chattanooga, Tenn. Columbia, S. C. . . . Jacksonville. Fla. .

2010 1st Ave.

. Charleston Hotel

. .22 S. Tryon St.

..81 7 Market St.

.Arcade Building

. . .38 W. Bay St.

Philadelphia. Pa..

Pittsburgh. Pa

Reading. Pa

Rochester. N. Y. . Syracuse, N. Y. . .

Toledo, Ohio

Washington, D. C. Williamsport. Pa. . Wilmington. Del. .

Paducah, Ky

.. Fla..

1539 Chestnut St.

. .Arcade Building

..I6N. Fifth St.

20 State St.

. University Block 320 Madison Ave. . 1229 F St. N. W. .4th and Pine Sts. . . .905 Market St.

Pensacola Raleigh. N. C Richmond. Va Savannah, Ga

Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel

Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel

Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St.

. . .430 Broadway .San Carlos Hotel 305 LaFayette St.

. .830E. Main St. 37 Bull St.

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PRESS OF THE HENRY O. SHEPARO CO., CHICAGO

This series of tremendous chasms reaches its culmination in a chaotic gorge 217 miles long. 9 to 13 miles wide, and more than 6000 feet deep.

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HA WAI

National Park

HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

!§• UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION

N AT IONAL PARK. SE

lilMIIMItmilimi

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An Appreciation of the

Hawaii National Park

By E. M. NEWMAN, Traveler and Lecturer

Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration

FIRES of a visible inferno burning in the midst of an earthly paradise is a striking con- trast, afforced only in the Hawaii National Park. It is a combination of all that is terrify- ing and all that is beautiful, a blending of the awful with the magnificent. Lava-flows of centuries are piled high about a living volcano, which is set like a ruby in an emer- ald bower of tropical grandeur. Picture a perfect May day, when glorious sunshine and smiling nature combine to make the heart glad; then multiply that day by three hundred and sixty-five and the result is the climate of Hawaii. Add to this the sweet odors, the luscious fruits, the luxuriant verdure, the flowers and colorful beauty of the tropics, and the Hawaii National Park becomes a dreamland that lingers in one's memory as long as memory survives.

Page three

To the American People:

Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America,

Secretary of the Interior

Hawaii National Park

HE Hawaiian Islands, in the mid-Pacific, comprise a land of exquisite charm, in a novel setting.

It is the land of the cocoanut and the royal palm; the poin- ciana regia and the monkeypod. Here the pleasure-seeking traveler also dis- covers the banyan and the hau, the golden shower and the hibiscus, the pineapple and the papaya, the kukui and algeroba , the lantana and pan- danus. And, from the coral plains thus carpeted, spring the world's most spectacular volcanoes, thousands of feet above the vast surrounding blue of the Pacific's dazzling waters.

The Hawaii National Park, created by the United States Government in 1916, and administered by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior, includes three celebrated Ha- waiian volcanoes, Kilauea and Mauna Loa on the island of Hawaii, and Haleakala, on the island of Maui. These islands are connected by fre- quent steamer service with the port of Honolulu, island of Oahu.

"The Hawaiian volcanoes," writes T. A. Jaggar, Jr. , director of the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, "are truly a na- tional asset, wholly unique of their kind, the most famous in the world of science and the most continuously, va-

riously, and harmlessly active volcanoes on earth. Kilauea crater has been nearly continuously active, with a lake or lakes of molten lava, for a century. Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano in the world, with eruptions about once a dec- ade, and has poured out more lava dur- ing the last century than any other volcano on the globe. Haleakala is a mountain mass ten thousand feet high, with a tremendous crater rift in its summit eight miles in diameter and three thousand feet deep, containing many high lava cones. Haleakala is probably the largest of all known craters among volcanoes that are tech- nically known as active. It erupted less than two hundred years ago. The crater at sunrise is the grandest vol- canic spectacle on earth."

The lava lake at Kilauea is the most spectacular feature of Hawaii National Park. It draws visitors from all over the world. It is a lake of molten, fiery lava a thousand feet long, splashing on its banks with a noise like waves of the sea, while great fountains boil through it fifty feet high. This ex- hibition of one of the most amazing revelations of nature the terrific and irresistible forces of the earth's internal fires is accessible by automobiles al- most to the very brink, and may be safely viewed. The National Park areas also include gorgeous tropical

Pag e four

The Pali, at head of Nuuanu Valley, near Honolulu

jungles and fine forests. Sandalwood, elsewhere extinct, grows luxuriantly, and there are mahogany groves. The Paradise of the Pacific

Hawaii is a Territory of the United States, annexed in 1898. The inhabit- ed islands comprise a chain of eight, stretching over a distance of more than four hundred miles, with a total area of 6,500 square miles and a population of 256,180. From northeast to south- west the islands are Niihau. Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Maui, Lanai, Kahoo- lawe and Hawaii, the latter giving its name to the group. Honolulu, island of Oahu, is the capital, the chief com- mercial city and a tourist resort.

The ocean voyage of more than two thousand miles from the mainland is full of interest, occupying several days in splendidly equipped and luxurious steamers. The waters soon become more placid, more deeply blue; the sky is softer, the air more balmy, and all around prevails the sweet influence of summer seas, restful and inviting. Sun- rise and sunset become more brilliant, and the nights of the full moon are flooded with a golden light that sug- gests fairy scenes of enchantment on the Isles beyond. Rounding Diamond Head, the landmark of Honolulu har- bor, the deep blue of the ocean shades

off with all the lighter blues, then runs the gamut through every shade of green, until the waves are seen break- ing in a long line of dazzling, foaming surf on the far-famed beach of Wai- kiki.

The city of Honolulu has a popula- tion of 75,000 and differs but little from American cities in social customs, manner of living, business life, and modern improvements. Next to ideal climate the visitor expects to find first- class hotels. In this respect he can be accommodated either in the palatial city hotels or in those at the beach. For those who prefer the residence and bungalow types of hotels, there are many conveniently situated.

The Executive Building, formerly the lolani Palace, contains numerous interesting features reminiscent of the past when the islands were under na- tive control. In the Throne Room, which is now the Territorial House of Representatives, are hung portraits of former kings and their consorts. The royal Hawaiian coat-of-arms, now the Territorial, together with gilded spears and other marks of olden days, may still be seen in the ornamentation of the interior.

Beautiful parks, with their royal palms, gorgeous tropical flowers,

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(£) BY NEWMAN TRAVEL TALKS AND BROWN » DAWSON N Y

Haleakala largest quiescent volcano in the world

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Waves of Lava, as seen by night

The Devil's Kitchen. Volcano of Kilauea

View of Golf Course and Country Club, Honolulu

strange trees and shrubs, suggest a fairy-land to the visitor unaccustomed to such scenes. In the automobile tours of Honolulu and its suburbs, over the admirable boulevards and highways, frequently one sees the scalloped branches of the night blooming cereus, drooping over hedges and walls. The glory and fragrance of the rare blos- soms may be enjoyed only after night- fall, when the great white petals unfold to greet the brilliant stars.

Waikiki Beach, the sea-side resort of Hono- lulu, fronts directly on the blue Pacific and is protected by a great coral reef half a mile or more off shore. Against this barrier the mighty rollers dash and rush headlong in foam-crested torrents across the lagoon. A daring and distinctively Hawaiian aquatic sport is surf-riding. It is most fascinating to watch the men and boys standing erect on their surfboards dashing shoreward and topping the crests of the highest breakers. Surf-riding in the outrigger canoes is an en- joyable sport and under the guidance of skill- ful Hawaiian paddlers is safe but decidedly speedy and thrilling. The sea bathing is per- fect; the temperature of the water is about 78 degrees the year 'round.

Delightful railroad and motor trips of mod- erate length may be enjoyed from Honolulu. The automobile tour around the island is par- ticularly interesting. A panorama of ever- changing beauty is unfolded precipitous mountains, foaming surf, dense tropical