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SMALL FRENCH BUILDINGS
THE ARCHITECTURE OF TOWN AND COUNTRY COMPRISING COTTAGES, FARMHOUSES, MINOR CHATEAUX OR MANORS
WITH THEIR FARM GROUPS SMALL TOWN DWELLINGS, AND A FEW CHURCHES
LEWIS A/ COFFIN, Jr., HENRY M. POLHEMUS and ADDISON F. WORTHINGTON
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1921
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Copyright, 1921, by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
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PRINTED AT
THE SCRIBNER PRESS
NEW YORK, U. S. A.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Small French Buildings *
Cottages ■ • ->
Churches and Chapels . 6l
Town Houses . 73
Chateaux, Manors, and Farm Groups IX5
Details 235
ILLUSTRATIONS
COTTAGES Plate i. Hamlet near L'Amaury, Seine-et-Oise Frontispiece
PAGE
Plate 2. Shop at Concarneau, Finistere . 7
Plate 3. Brittany cottage -. 9
Plate 4. Typical old Brittany cottage 11
Plate 5. Cottage near Freulleville, Seine-Inferieure 13
Plate 6. Farmer's cottage near Dieppe, Seine-Inferieure 15
Plate 7. Stone cottages at Conches, Eure ' 17
Plate 8. Roadside cottage near Beuzeville, Eure 19
Plate 9. Cottage at Luneray, Seine-Inferieure 19
Plate 10. Thatched roof Normandy cottage in typical setting 21
Plate ii. Cottage near Totes, Seine-Inferieure 23
Plate 12. Cottage near Totes, Seine-Inferieure 23
Plate 13. Farm cottage near Beaufay, Sarthe 25
Plate 14. Cottage near Totes, Seine-Inferieure 25
Plate 15. Farm cottage near Beaufay, Sarthe 27
Plate 16. Roadside cottage near Lisieux, Calvados 29
Plate 17. Thirteenth-century house at La Saussaye 31
Plate 18. Hamlet near L'Amaury, Seine-et-Oise 23
Plate 19. Cottage near Amfreville, Eure 23
Plate 20. Farm at Bieville-en-Ange, Calvados 35
Plate 21. Roadside cottage near Authon, Eure-et-Loir 35
Plate 22. Hamlet near Yerville, Seine-Inferieure 37
Plate 23. Cottage near Quievercourt, Seine-Inferieure 37
vii
ILLUSTRATIONS
Plate 24 Plate 25 Plate 26 Plate 27 Plate 28 Plate 29 Plate 30 Plate 31 Plate 32 Plate 23 Plate 34 Plate 35 Plate 36
Cottage near Melamare, Seine-Inferieure 39
Village near Authon, Eure-et-Loir 41
Cottage on the Dordogne, near St. Cyprien 43
An entrance to Montfort, Seine-et-Oise 45
Village street, Montfort, Seine-et-Oise 45
Cottage near Damville, Eure 47
Cottage of Savigny, Manche 49
Cottage near St. Jacques, Plomb du Cantal 51
Farmhouse at Marolles, Calvados 53
House in the Dordogne Valley 53
A southern village 55
Cottage near Ste. Foy-la-Grande, Gironde 57
Cottage near Bergerac, Dordogne 57
CHAPELS
Plate 37. Chapel at Romorantin, Loir-et-Cher 61
Plate 38. Farm chapel near Brecy, Calvados . 61
63
63
....... 65
....... 67
■ 67
• 69
........ 69
Plate 39. Chateau chapel at Millan^ay, Loir-et-Cher
Plate 40. St. Leger-en-Yvelines, Seine-et-Oise
Plate 41. Hamlet near Concarneau, Finistere
Plate 42. Church at Vaucelle, Calvados
Plate 43. Church at Daoulas, Finistere
Plate 44. Pont Audemer, Eure
Plate 4^. Chapel at Chateau Gratot, near Coutances, Manche
Plate 46. Church at Noisy-sur-Oise 71
TOWN HOUSES
Plate 47. Shop at Landerneau, Finistere 75
Plate 48. House at Landerneau, Finistere • 77
Plate 49. House at Landerneau, Finistere 79
viii
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Plate 50. Hotel des Trois Piliers, Landerneau, Finistere 79
Plate 51. House at Hennebont, Morbihan - 81
Plate 52. x^uray, Morbihan 83
Plate 53. Le Mans, Sarthe 85
Plate 54. On the ramparts, Mont St. Michel, Manche 87
Plate 55. Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir 87
Plate ^6. Houses at Conches, Eure-et-Loir 89
Plate 57. House at Compiegne, Oise 91
Plate 58. Old house at Mennetou-sur-Cher, Loir-et-Cher 93
Plate 59. House at Verneuil, Eure 95
Plate 60. An old town house 97
Plate 61. Restaurant at Etampes, Seine-et-Oise 99
Plate 62. House at Beaulieu, Correze .101
Plate 63. House at Couches-les-Mines, Saone-et-Loire 103
Plate 64. House at Arnay-le-Duc, Cote-d'Or 105
Plate 65. Pont Audemer, Eure 105
Plate 66. Caudebec-en-Caux, Seine-Inferieure 107
Plate 67. House between church buttresses, La Charite, Nievre 107
Plate 68. Street at Conches, Eure 109
Plate 69. House at Arnay-le-Duc, Cote-d'Or 109
Plate 70. House at Arnay-le-Duc, Cote-d'Or 1 1 1
Plate 71. House at Arnay-le-Duc, Cote-d'Or 113
CHATEAUX, MANORS, AND FARM GROUPS
Plate 72. Entrance to manor farmyard near Demigny, Saone-et-Loire 119
Plate 73. Pigeon-house, manor near Demigny, Saone-et-Loire 121
Plate 74. Garden-house near Hennebont, Morbihan 123
Plate 75. Chateau Gratot, near Coutances, Manche 125
Plate 76. Garden-house near Hennebont, Morbihan 125
Plate 77. Le manoir de Rouazle, Finistere 127
ix
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Plate 78. Farm on Blaret River above Hennebont, Morbihan 129
Plate 79. House at Guiscard 129
Plate 80. House near Mercoeur, Correze 131
Plate 81. Farmhouse near St. Cyprien, Dordogne Valley 133
Plate 82. House at Brion, Saone-et-Loire ....... 135
Plate 83. Farmhouse at St. Pierre-le-Viger, Seine-Inferieure 137
Plate 84. Manor at Sainte-Marie-aux-Anglais, Calvados 139
Plate 85. House at Esclarelles, Seine-Inferieure 141
Plate 86. Manor near Freulleville, Seine-Inferieure 141
Plate 87. Farmyard near Freulleville, Seine-Inferieure ' 143
Plate 88. Entrance to farm near Neufchatel 143
Plate 89. Manor farmyard near Freulleville, Seine-Inferieure 145
Plate 90. Farmhouse near Lisieux, Calvados 145
Plate 91. Farmyard side of manor near Bures, Seine-Inferieure 147
Plate 92. Manor gate near Bures, Seine-Inferieure 147
Plate 93. Farmyard, manor near Bures, Seine-Inferieure 149
Plate 94. Farm buildings, manor near Bures, Seine-Inferieure 149
Plate 95. Farm group near Neufchatel, Seine-Inferieure 151
Plate 96. Horse farm near Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir 151
Plate 97. Manor stables at Arques-la-Bataille, Seine-Inferieure 153
Plate 98. Manor at Esclarelles, Seine-Inferieure 153
Plate 99. Manor at Croixdalle, Seine-Inferieure 1 5 5
Plate 100. Inn near Bourdamville, Seine-Inferieure 155
Plate ioi. Chateau de Bemecourt, Eure . - 1 57
Plate 102. Sixteenth-century manor, Monteille, Calvados 157
Plate 103. Gateway, Manoir d'Ango, Varengeville, Seine-Inferieure 159
Plate 104. Entrance to courtyard, Manoir d'Ango, Varengeville, Seine-Inferieure . . . 159
Plate 105. Farmhouse near Yerville, Seine-Inferieure 161
Plate 106. Manor near Lintot, Seine-Inferieure 161
Plate 107. Manor at Omverville, Seine-et-Oise 163
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Plate 108. Stables near Brecy, Calvados 165
Plate 109. Farmyard near Brecy, Calvados 165
Plate iio. Farmyard, St. Jean-de-Follerville, Seine-Inferieure 167
Plate hi. Farm building near St. Leger, Saone-et-Loire 167
Plate 112. Farmyard near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir 169
Plate 113. Stable near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir 169
Plate 114. Farmhouse at St. Pierre-le-Viger, Seine-Inferieure . 171
Plate 115. Farm building near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir 171
Plate 116. Entrance court fagade, Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux, Calvados . . . . 173
Plate 117. Entrance, Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux, Calvados 175
Plate 118. General plan of Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux, Calvados 177
Plate 119. Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux, Calvados 179
Plate 120. Farm near St. Leger, Saone-et-Loire 179
Plate 121. Chateau le Pin, Calvados 181
Plate 122. Stables of the Chateau Cheverny . . . .183
Plate 123. Stable building, Chateau du Bouissard, near Brezolles 185
Plate 124. Chateau de Saint-Germain-de-Livet, Calvados 187
Plate 125. Chateau de Cantepie-Lisieux 189
Plate 126. Entrance to Chateau at Couchey, Cote-d'Or 191
Plate 127. Stable-yard, Millancay, Loir-et-Cher 191
Plate 128. Farmhouse at Monthelon, Saone-et-Loire 193
Plate 129. Farmhouse near Le Neubourg, Eure 195
Plate 130. Farmhouse at Monthelon, Saone-et-Loire 195
Plate 131. Chateau near Millancay, Loir-et-Cher . 197
Plate 132. Horse-farm courtyard near Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir 197
Plate 133. Chateau de Villepreaux, Creuse ■ 199
Plate 134. Farm near St. Leger, Saone-et-Loire 201
Plate 135. Farm near St. Leger, Saone-et-Loire 203
Plate 136. House near Vic-sur-Cere, Cantal 205
Plate 137. Farm near Gourdon, Lot 207
xi
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Plate 138. Manoir Duval near Freulleville, Seine-Inferieure 207
Plate 139. Farm near Gourdon 209
Plate 140. Farm group near Rambouillet, Seine-et-Oise . . . 211
Plate 141. Stable-yard near Demigny, Saone-et-Loire 211
Plate 142. Farm near La Remuee, Seine-Inferieure 213
Plate 143. Mill near Murat, Cantal 213
Plate 144. Farm near Domme, Dordogne ; .... 215
Plate 145. Farm group near Gourdon, Lot 215
Plate 146. Farmhouse near St. Cyprien, Dordogne Valley .......... 217
Plate 147. Manor at Vaucelles, Calvados 219
Plate 148. Gatehouse of Chateau de Royalhen, South Compiegne 221
Plate 149. House at St. Symphories, Tours 223
Plate i 50. House at St. Symphories, Tours 223
Plate 151. Plan of manor near Libourne, Gironde 225
Plate 152. Garden elevation of manor near Libourne, Gironde . . 227
Plate 153. Section and details of manor near Libourne, Gironde . 229
Plate 154. Farm entrance, manor near Demigny, Saone-et-Loire . .- . . . . . .231
Plate 155. Stable near St. Emilion, Gironde 231
Plate 156. Manor at Arques-la-Bataille 233
DETAILS
Plate 157. Farm-gate near La Remuee, Seine-Inferieure 237
Plate 158. Pigeon-house at La Grande Verriere, Saone-et-Loire 239
Plate 159. Pigeon-house, Manoir Duval, near Freulleville, Seine-Inferieure 239
Plate 160. Pigeon-house near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir 241
Plate 161. Pigeon-house near Chartres 243
Plate 162. An octagonal pigeon-house 245
Plate 163. Balustrade at Billom, Puy-de-D6me 247
Plate 164. Window grille, Manoir d'Ango, Varengeville, Seine-Inferieure 247
Plate 165. Loggia, Manoir d'Ango, Varengeville, Seine-Inferieure 249
xii
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Plate 166. Detail, house at Verneuil, Eure 249
Plate 167. Bridge at Vendome, Loir-et-Cher 251
Plate 168. Garden-gate, Chateau de Sorel, Dreux, Eure 253
Plate 169. Farm-gate near St. Jean-de-Follerville, Seine-Inferieure 255
Plate 170. Gate from garden to farm, Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux 255
Plate 171. Farmhouse doors, Monthelon, Saone-et-Loire 257
Plate 172. Gate near Evreux, Eure 259
Plate 173. Farm-gate near St. Jean-de-Follerville, Seine-Inferieure 259
Plate 174. Farm-gate near La Remuee, Seine-Inferieure 261
Plate 175. Doorway at Le Mans, Sarthe 263
Plate 176. Doorway at Arnay-le-Duc, Cote-d'Or 263
Plate 177. Door at Billom, Puy-de-D6me 265
Plate 178. Church entrance at Honfleur, Seine-Inferieure 267
Plate 179. Farm entrance near Lintot, Seine-Inferieure 267
Plate 180. Detail of stone garden-gate of house at Brion, Saone-et-Loire 269
Plate 181. Garden-gate, Arnay-le-Duc, Cote-d'Or 271
Plate 182. Garden-gate, Montfort, Seine-et-Oise 273
Plate 183. Entrance to Chateau de St. Georges, Montagne, Gironde 275
xni
SMALL FRENCH BUILDINGS
The "minor architecture of France, of which this book can unfortunately cover but a small part, comprises a field worthy, we believe, of further study and atten- tion. It is astonishing that these small buildings have received so little attention as compared with similar types of other countries, notably of Italy and of England, in regard to which a considerable number of books are available. Why these buildings of France have not been more sought out and preserved in publica- tion, it is difficult to say. Perhaps it is because France seems so distinctly a coun- try of monumental architecture, that its lesser and more modest buildings of the country and the provinces have come little to the attention of the student; per- haps because the finer examples are quite widely scattered, so that any collec- tion of such material must of necessity be difficult. In gathering the pictures and other data, we covered, on foot and cycle, the sections of France that seemed most full of promise: Normandy, Brittany, the Cote-d'Or, the Dordogne section, and the fertile valleys of the interior. Of course it was impossible to reap the full harvest even of the parts visited, and we know that a vast mass of excellent ma- terial remains untouched as yet. It is hoped that some time soon most of it may be gathered together in published form, for much that is worth while disappears year by year.
In choosing our material, we have purposely avoided the chateaux, particularly those familiar ones of the Loire valley, as well as the larger and better-known buildings in general. Our idea has been to include only the smaller chateaux, quite unfamiliar ones off the beaten track, the manors, the farm groups, and the cottages of the peasants. At first there was every intention to omit all churches, but in Normandy and often elsewhere it was quite impossible to resist photo- graphing the quaint little churches and chapels that fit in so well with the coun- try, the people, and the surrounding hamlets. And now it is as impossible to re- frain from including a few of these. The majority of the photographs we took ourselves, so for their quality we can hold to account only ourselves and the fickle weather of France. A few pictures we bought and a few very interesting ones have been contributed by Mr. Philip L. Goodwin, to whom our thanks are given.
There is no truer mirror of a people and a civilization than their informal ar- chitecture. ' In it there has been no attempt at artificial effect and very small obeisance to the passing fashions. The buildings of the French farmer, the small landowner, and the peasant, are as indigenous to their soil as the poplar-trees and poppies in the fields. The Frenchman is and always has been a lover of fine words, of gay colors, of flowered gardens, of piquancy, and of originality. So, too, are his
I
SMALL FRENCH BUILDINGS
buildings: original, full of piquant interest, often gay of color, and invariably set around with hedge and flowers.
The variety of types — the chateaux, the manors, farms, and peasant cottages — reflect the state of society in the past, those widely divergent conditions of wealth which existed and still exist to a lesser extent. Then, too, we can discern the in- fluences that the bordering states have had, where the sections were once under the control of some neighbor country, as, for instance, in Normandy, where the rural types of buildings are distinctly English in character and material; and on the southern slopes, where the influence of Italy can everywhere be seen. The path of the Renaissance remains clearly visible, where it swept up from Italy and Spain, fading out in the less accessible regions, until in the remote sections of Brit- tany the earlier or Gothic forms remain clearly predominant.
We are hopeful of the utility and of the pleasant savor of this material to any lover of good building — for its very freshness and playful originality, if for nothing else. There are a great many suggestions of value in these old types, most impor- tant perhaps in the roof shapes, the compositions of masses, and the fitness of house for setting. Color, unfortunately, cannot be reproduced, and many of the buildings are particularly of interest in their color and the tones of their ma- terials. In the introductory notes before each group, an attempt has been made to convey as much as possible of the effect of the materials and of noteworthy de- tails. Most particularly the thick stone walls, dry, buttered, or stuccoed, the broken masses of the roofs, the placing of chimneys and dormers, the fenestration,, and the use of casements are features worthy of careful note. . The usual French house has little to offer in the way of valuable suggestion for modern house arrange- ment, so we have thought best to omit any study of such plans from the ma- terial. However, two plans are included, both very interesting in their general, scheme. That of the Chateau Brecy shows an excellent use of a sloping site for a walled garden in a series of ascending terraces; and that of a manor near Libourne, by the use of a grassed terrace, moat, and four immense linden-trees, has made very effective use of a practically flat site. Regarding detail, we have omitted any serious presentation, realizing that one of the most important sug- gestions we find in the minor French buildings, is that detail of elaborateness and quantity has not been needed.
Any one viewing a French village from a point of vantage, must remark on the manner in which it nestles into the surrounding country, forming a part and parcel of the land, and not staring out from the green earth like a blotch on the landscape. Age, of course, has had much to do with this quiet and agreeable re- sult, but even more important are the materials that have been used in construc- tion. In most cases they are strictly local: the stone from the near-by field or brook, thatch from the meadow, or slate from the hillside quarry close by. There- fore, it is quite natural that the buildings are but a more definitized, more human-
2
SMALL FRENCH BUILDINGS
ized form of the country about, built into rambling, picturesque shapes peculiarly suited to their sites, and in time covered with moss and vine. Then, too, the small towns and isolated buildings have not suffered from the disadvantages of eclec- ticism, except in a lew unfortunate places; and all seem to go very pleasantly to- gether, mildly ruled by tradition, no matter their age. Any student of town planning would do well to see in these French towns what variety may be at- tempted, what controlled spontaneity of design employed, and yet what a con- gruous whole, obtained.
The farm group is also particularly suggestive; to-day we have much of this sort of building. The typical French farm group, comprising numerous build- ings, was almost invariably built around a court, very wide, walled about and planted with "espalier" fruit-trees. The informality of the grouping of the vari- ous buildings, the roof masses, walls, and entrance-gateways have many sug- gestions to offer. For country houses, the smaller, more informal chateaux, the manors as well as the larger farm buildings, are valuable for ideas of mass, materials, and details.
It is our hope that others may appreciate these little buildings and find in them some freshness and inspiration. And we can recommend, from pleasant and profitable experience, this simple sort of architecture to any one who may find himself in France, as being not so impressive as cathedrals or as magnificent as palaces, but very worth while. For in its quest, one learns to love the people, their songs and laughter, their wheat-fields and poppies, quite as fully as their buildings. We hope that this book may bring something new and refreshing and stimulate an enlivened interest in a field rather neglected and yet very worthy of study.
COTTAGES
Under this head have been grouped the small cottages of the peasant farmer, which have little architectural detail of any sort but the charm of utter sim- plicity, of wonderful color, and exact fitness for their settings. Along the white roads of France and through the fields, these little cottages snuggle down behind their hedges and flower-gardens, so old and softened in line and color that they seem a very part of the land itself. The roof lines are long and soft, and the build- ings seldom more than one story and a half in height. The most usual arrangement consists of two main rooms: — a combination living-room and kitchen, and a bed- room— or maybe two — while the loft above is accessible only from an outside stair- way and opening, and is chiefly for storage. Each room has an ample fireplace, and the kitchen contains the large bake-oven.
The materials of construction are in general strictly local, and the resulting uniformity is largely accountable for the artistic charm of the small French vil- lage. In the north are found the thatched roofs and half-timber construction along the farm roads, while nearer the towns there are more cottages of brick with pan-tile roofs. In Brittany there are many picturesque little cottages of stone, or stone podged over with stucco, with gabled, thatched, or slate roofs, and the small amount of detail more Gothic than aught else. The forms of the thatched cottages seem almost to have been inspired by the long, soft, hipped lines of the carefully stacked haymows; and the roofs themselves, often green with moss or with the ridges a growing mass of fleurs-de-lis, of course, blend beautifully with the landscape.
In central France are found many brick or white walled cottages with tile or thatch roofs, while in the southern parts most buildings have the flavor and sug- gestion of Italy or Spain, with large expanses of white stucco walls, symmetrically placed openings, and roll tile roofs with wide overhangs at the eaves, as illustrated in Plates 35 and 36.
Among the illustrations, Plate 3 shows a Brittany cottage of roughly faced local stone and thatched roof, as does Plate 30. The thatch ridge has blossomed forth in flowers, and though the wall has been patched out, the effect is snug and pleas- ing in line. Plate 5 is an example of a brick cottage set down behind its garden and buried in vines. The hipped end of the roof is carried down nearly to the ground in a shed roof. Plates 8, 9, 14, and 17 are examples of half-timbered cot- tages, the half-timber frieze in the cottages near Beuzeville and Totes being often seen in such little buildings. The cottage at Quievercourt on Plate 23 has an unusual treatment of the chimney, buttresses flanking its base, while Plate 29 shows a decorated brick-and-stone treatment of the chimney. The overhanging eaves at the end shelter the stairway to the loft.
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Plate a. Cottage at Luneray, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate ii. Cottage near Totes, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 12. Cottage near Totes, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate 13. Farm cottage near Beaufay, Sarthe
Plate 14. Cottage near Totes, Seine-Inferieure
A typical thatched-roof cottage of Normandy with hedge in the foreground and background of slender poplars
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Plate 18. Hamlet near L'Amaury, Seine-et-Oise
Plate 19. Cottage near Amfreville, Eure
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Plate 20. Farm at Bieville-en-Ange, Calvados
Plate 21. Roadside cottage near Authon, Eure-et-Loir
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Plate 22. Hamlet near Yerville, Seine Inferieure
Plate 23. Cottage near Quievercourt, Seine Inferieure
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Plate 27. An entrance to Montfort, Seine-et-Oise
Plate 28. Village street, Montfort, Seine-et-Oise 45
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Plate 32. Farmhouse at Marolles, Calvados
Plate 33. House in the Dordogne Valley
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Plate 35. Cottage near Ste. Foy-la- Grande, Gironde
Plate 36. Cottage near Bergerac, Dordogne
57
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS
Somewhere in the vicinity of the chateaux of France there grew up villages where livedthe peasants dependent on the great families for their hire. The chapel or church was built to fill the needs of these little communities and the surround- ing district, sometimes forming one of the buildings of the chateau group proper, or else being near by at the cross-roads in the chateau hamlet.
A Normandy type, of which Plates 38, 42, and 45 are good examples, is par- ticularly interesting for gabled towers, a treatment capable of excellent and vari- able proportions. The tower of the chapel near Brecy has a chunky, solid shape, that at Vaucelle a feeling of more taper and grace, while the tower of the chapel at Gratot reaches up to the sky like a lofty sentinel. The towers are placed at different points on the plans, over the crossing, astride the ridge, and at the en- trance. Other examples would show the same freedom and variety. It is inter- esting to note the impressiveness of these simple towers and their grace of line, the latter due for the most part to the proper use of battered sides. The window openings are minimum even in the belfry, lending a solidity to the massive walls. The texture of the gray stone walls and their proportions seem to be of sufficient value to give them architectural excellence. The battering of the walls in most cases made buttresses unnecessary from a constructive standpoint.
The little chapel at Romorantin is very attractive in its setting, and in design represents simplicity itself; while the chateau chapel at Millancay, with its round- headed, white-trimmed windows, and truly Georgian cupola, seems very suggestive of our buildings of the Georgian period.
Some stray influence created the church at Daoulas (Plate 43) with its very quaint and unusual gable and belfry of rather Belgian design. Plate 46 shows a very picturesque grouping of roofs — flat slate roofs with the roll-tile ridges. The interiors of these simple churches are not so worthy of comment. Except for the utter simplicity of their podged or plastered walls and the unadorned rafters and ties, grown gray with age, there is little to note.
59
Plate 37. Chapel at Romorantin, Loir-et-Cher
Plate 38. Farm chapel near Brecy, Calvados 61
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Plate 44. Pont Audemer, Eure
Plate 45. Chapel at Chateau Gratot, near Coutances, Manche
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TOWN HOUSES
The buildings included under this title are chiefly those of the smaller towns, although one or two houses included were found in cities, sometimes incongruously jammed between more pretentious and modern structures.
The roof is considered a most important part of the design, as in the country, giving to the small old town the broken silhouette so usual in France, a picturesque medley of gabled, hipped, and mansard roofs, cut with dormers, crowned with finials, and broken with multitudinous chimney-pots. In many of the old towns the streets are narrow and cobbled, meandering up the natural slopes and often end- ing in picturesque courts and "cul-de-sacs." In the old half-timbered towns these narrow streets, lined with the ancient stucco and wood houses, are fascinating in color, their grays and yellows set off with bright flowers in window-pots. But they are either difficult to photograph or much of the effect depends on the whole pleasantly jumbled mass and few of the individual houses present in themselves enough value to include.
The lower or street floor, almost invariably flush with the cobbles of the street, is usually given over to a shop or more often a cafe, and the floor above to the quarters of the patron and his family. The interiors, save for the refreshing coolness and bright bebottled cupboards, present little of interest. The chief at- tempt at architectural interest occurs in the carved dormers, turrets, corbels, in finials and in some instances in the elaborated carving of the timber of the whole facade. The majority of the half-timbered buildings are Gothic, the detail having a quaintness and piquancy seldom found in ecclesiastical work. Rarely is there any attempt whatsoever at symmetry; in fact, there seems to have been a com- plete abhorrence of it, resulting in much picturesqueness. Some of the interest- ing features of the subjects included are as follows:
Plate 47 is a stone shop in Brittany with the chief interest centred in an elabor- ately carved stone dormer; Plate 48 an early Gothic gable end with wide wall sur- faces, heavily accented belt courses, and unusual double ogival curves over the windows; Plate 53 shows an interesting contrast between the narrow richly carved half-timbered house and the more simple and generous corner house adjacent to it. Brick and flint pattern work has been used on the gable end of the little house on Plate 59, the contrast between the salmon color of brick and weathered stone not being too strong in reality.
That it is possible to obtain an excellent effect by simple means, is shown by Plate 60, where plain wall surface, broken only in heavy courses of corbels, has
73
TOWN HOUSES
been so proportioned that there is much charm in the effect. Note that in the building in Plate 62 the overhanging- second-story porch is nicely carried on wood brackets, and below, that the openings have Gothic arches. On Plate 63 is an example of a symmetrical design which has been given an informal character by the materials themselves, buttered stone walls and irregular pan-tile roofing. The loggia is an interesting feature, Italian in character, with a beamed ceiling, though it has been unfortunately marred by modern window-sash.
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Plate 48. House at Landerneau, Finistere 77
Plate 49. House at Landerneau, Finistere
Plate 50. Hotel des Trois Piliers, Landerneau, Finistere
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Plate 51. House at Hennebont, Morbihan 8l
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Plate 53. Le Mans, Sarthe 85
PLATE 54. On the ramparts, Mont St. Michel, Manche
Plate 55. Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir 87
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CHATEAUX, MANORS, AND FARM
GROUPS
The buildings illustrated in this chapter are those which through some pre- tense of elegance or size cannot be classed as cottages or peasant buildings. They form themselves into three general groups: chateaux, manors, and the larger farms or farm groups. It is in these types that perhaps the more interesting studies of French rural architecture exist, for the fact that in them is discernible a more or less conscious attempt at a truly architectural design, differentiating them at once from the simpler dwellings, where the result, however attractive, has been arrived at by unconscious native artistry and the pleasant combination of local materials.
The chateaux illustrated are few in number, for it has been our idea to avoid buildings of any great pretension, the ones included being the smaller ones in most cases.
Chateau Gratot, on Plate 75, is just such a one, a group of buildings around a court, unsymmetrical except for the farm buildings flanking the entrance. The chateau is one of those early Normandy examples, quite mediaeval in every way.
The Chateau Brecy, a Renaissance group, near Bayeux in Calvados, shown on Plates 116, 117, 118, and 119, is the most elaborate chateau that has been included. The buildings, however, are small and comparatively little known, though they form, with the gardens, an unusually complete and beautiful whole. The most interesting feature is the plan, owing to the use of the sloping site with a walled garden of ascending terraces, rising up to a richly ornamented gateway, which opens toward farm lands beyond. No element of symmetrical treatment has been omitted, except slight variations in the court facades of the farm buildings which flank the entrance-court. As may be seen from the plates, the stone detail of gateway, doorways, and other detail has been richly and beautifully carved. In the garden the wall treatment of the lowest terrace with Doric and Ionic pilasters, the arrangement of terraces, the detail of gates, steps, and walls, have been at- tractively handled.
Chateau le Pin (Plate 121) has well-proportioned and nicely composed facade, made lively with the contrasting bands, quoins, and panels of stone and brick. Note that the fenestration of the central pavillion is not symmetrical, and yet the result, judging from the photograph, has been insured thereby from being too dry.
Plate 132 shows an interesting and original wrought-iron gateway, effective against the chateau beyond, which itself is rather good in mass and composition. The design of the chateau is attributed to J. H. Mansart.
115
CHATEAUX, MANORS, AND FARM GROUPS
Chateau de St. Germain-de-Livet (Plate 124) is a sixteenth-century building of composite architecture. The chateau proper has its wall in that colorful pattern of flint and salmon-pink bricks, very effective play of color resulting, if the eye is not distracted by too much of it at a time.
Plate 125, a sketch of the Chateau de Cantepie, shows the original building with the towered pavillion of more modern design at the left rear, which has the style but not the character of the old portion. The facade in the sketch suggests a very excellent and clever treatment for a two-and-a-half-story house, the breaking of the eaves over the second-story windows and under the dormers serving to tie the composition together in an attractive manner. Note the use of high finials at the peak of the dormer roofs.
Manors, smaller than chateaux as a rule and more pretentious than simple farmhouses, are scattered throughout the length and breadth of France. They were built after the passing of Feudalism by the more prosperous independent farmers who, without being of noble birth, had yet more position and wealth than the peasants. It is in this type of building that many fine examples exist, for a definite attempt at design has been made without the more formal pretensions of a chateau. The buildings usually are several: a main dwelling and farm buildings flanking a court, detached or connected with a masonry wall, as well as an entrance- lodge or gateway and other isolated buildings, such as pigeon-houses or well- houses. The use of the court wall tends to tie the whole together and has brought about many interesting effects. Such a result is illustrated on Plate 72, where the wall between the flanking farm buildings has been carried the full height of the building wall. The continuity of the eave-line is largely accountable for the pleasing result.
The encircling wall of the manor near Demigny, also shown on Plate 154, has been capped with tile roofing. Note the main arched entrance for farm vehicles and the smaller entrance at the side for pedestrians.
The manor near Li bourne (Plates 151, 152, 153) is of the southern or Italian type. On account of the thick trees set about it and on the garden terrace it was almost impossible to photograph. The raised grass terrace enclosed with a balus- trade and bordered with a moat is the most attractive and unusual feature. There are four big linden-trees on the terrace, spaced carefully in relation to the terrace and house, which add much interest to the garden side of the building.
The garden-house near Hennebont, on Plates 74 and 76, overlooks the Blaret River. The loggia treatment with brackets to the garden-wall, the quaint mansard roof, overhanging dormer roofs, and little tower make a very pleasing composition.
The farmhouse at St. Pierre-le-Viger, shown on Plates 83 and 114, is an exam- ple of the larger type of farm that has numerous buildings connected by a wall forming a very large court planted with an orchard of fruit-trees. Though the buildings are not symmetrical in mass or location, there is an axis line established
116
CHATEAUX, MANORS, AND FARM GROUPS
through the entrance-gates and the main farm residence, and the planting of the trees has been balanced on this axis. The farmhouse at Esclarelles, on Plate 85, shows an unusual beaver-tail roof, which carries down close to the ground. The farmhouse, on Plate 90, has a good treatment of mass for a sloping site and shows the frieze-board usual in that locality over the windows, and a rather typical open shed for vehicles. In the farm group, on Plate 95, is a good example of the farm- court, beyond the entrance-pavilion, with the flanking sheds and farmhouses, barns, etc., forming the other sides of the square. There is something well knit and at the same time picturesque about these groups.
The manor at Arques-la-Bataille (Plates 97 and 156) is the rather well-known Normandy manor, where the stable shown on the plate is almost a replica of the main dwelling, separated from it by a garden. The stepped gables and nicely fenestrated facades have been enlivened by the judicious use of flint inserts in pat- tern and bands. Another example of such ornamentation of brickwork is shown on Plate 99, the inserts in the cornice having more lively decorative effect than true modillions. On Plate 105 is an example of brick set to form quoins and bands, while Plate 106 shows an all-over wall pattern. The farm building near St. Leger (Plate in) is interesting for its roof and mass, the photograph unfortunately being valuable on that account only. Plates 112, 113, and 115 give a very good idea of the half-timber work of Normandy, showing it to be truly structural.
The farm near Gourdon, in the province of Lot, Plate 145, has a very interest- ing towered building for the residence of the farmer, while the sheds and barns have been tied into the house with a long ridged roof whose eaves hug the ground. Plate 144 shows the use of glazed tile in patterns on the roof, the ridge-lines set off with white cement.
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Plate 76. Garden-house near Hennebont, Morbihan
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Plate 79. House at Guiscard
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Plate 90. Farmhouse near Lisieux, Calvados
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Plate 91. Farmyard side of manor near Bures, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 92. Manor gate near Bures, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate 94. Farm buildings, manor near Bures, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate 95. Farm group near Neufchatel, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 96. Horse farm near Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir
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Plate 97. Manor stables at Arques-la-Bataille, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 98. Manor at Esclarelles, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate 99. Manor at Croixdalle, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 100. Inn near Bourdamville, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate ioi. Chateau de Bemecourt, Eure
Plate 102. Sixteenth-century manor, Monteille, Calvados
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Plate 103. Gateway, Manoir d'Ango, Varengcville, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 104. Entrance to courtyard, Manoir d'Ango, Varengeville, Seine-Inferieurt
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Plate 106. Manor near Lintot, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate 109. Farmyard near Brecy, Calvados
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Plate iic. Farmyard, St. Jean-de-Follerville, Seine-Inferieure
Plate hi. Farm building near St. Leger, Saone-et-Loire
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Plate ir. Farmyard near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir
Plate 113. Stable near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir
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Plate 114. Farmhouse at St. Pierre-le-Viger, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 115. Farm building near Brezolles, Eure-et-Loir
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Plate 119. Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux, Calvados
Plate 120. Farm near St. Leger, Saone-et-Loire
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Plate 130. Farmhouse at Monthelon, Saone-et-Loire
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Plate 131. Chateau near Millancay, Loir-et-Cher
Plate 132. Horse-farm courtyard near Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir
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Plate 141. Stable yard near Demigny, Saone-et-Loire
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Plate 142. Farm near La Remuee, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 143. Mill near Murat, Cantal
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Plate 144. Farm near Domme, Dordogne
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Plate 148. Gatehouse of Chateau de Royalhen, South Compiegne
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Plate 149. House at St. Symphories, Tours
Plate 150. House at St. Symphories, Tours
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Plate 155. Stable near St. Emilion, Gironde
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DE T A I LS
Among the miscellaneous details which present the most interest are gateways, of which there are found chiefly two varieties — the large gateway or pavillion which usually forms the entrance to the farmyard or court of a manor or large farm group, and the smaller garden gateway, not intended for the passage of vehicles. There are included several examples of each. Plates 169, 173, and 174 are examples of the entrances to farmyard or court, and Plates 168, 170, 180, and 181 are good examples of the types of garden gates. The bold moulding in the gate illustrated on Plate 180 is in harmony with the adjacent rubble wall, and the split pediment, undoubtedly for planting, is of interest. We were very much pleased with the discovery of the thatched farm entrance on Plates 157 and 174, which is such an unusual and altogether charming combination. The gateway shown on Plate 173 illustrates the horizontal striped treatment of brick and stone, typical of Normandy. The massive stone gate-posts forming the entrance to the court of Chateau St. Georges on Plate 183, tremendous in scale and of bold and unusual detail, have an impressiveness that a designer of to-day would find hard to origi- nate.
Plate 168, a carved stone Renaissance gateway, suggestive of Italian design, represents the more elaborate garden design, while the gates on Plates 181 and 182 illustrate a bolder, simpler style of less pretentious gardens. There are several excellent gateways on the terraces of Chateau Brecy, the one shown on Plate 170 being at the end of the ascending terraces on axis with the house and opening out from the uppermost garden wall to the farm lands beyond.
Besides the gateways, interesting details are doorways, pigeon-houses, well- heads, and such occasional details as the balustrade at Billom with its use of masques and crisp balusters. The pigeon-house seems to have been an almost indispensable part of a farm group, being invariably a picturesque feature, dis- tinct by itself of each farm court. The circular pigeon-house at La Grande Verriere on Plate 158 has an unusual curved flight of stone steps supported by a stone column, while the one at the Manoir Duval shows a rather elaborate brick corbelled cornice and stocky solid proportion. Both of these are circular in plan, one of stucco and the other of brick, while Plate 160 shows an example of an octagonal cut stone tower, with a conical tile roof, which changes again to an octagonal-shaped base below a round cupola.
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Plate 157. Farm-gate near La Remuee, Seine-Inferieure
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Plate 162. An octagonal pigeon-house 245
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Plate 165. Loggia, Manoir d'Ango, Varengeville, Seine Inferieure
Plate 166. Detail, house at Verneuil, Eure
249
Plate 167. Bridge at Vendome, Loir-et-Cher 251
Plate 168. Garden-gate, Chateau de Sorel, Dreux, Eure
253
Plate 169. Farm gate near St. Jean-de-Follerville, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 170. Gate from garden to farm, Chateau de Brecy, near Bayeux
255
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Plate 172. Gate near Evreux, Eure
Plate 173. Farm-gate near St. Jean-de-Follerville, Seine-Inferieure
259
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263
265
Plate 178. Church entrance at Honfleur, Seine-Inferieure
Plate 179. Farm entrance near Lintot, Seine-Inferieure
267
Plate 180. Detail of stone garden-gate of house at Brion, Saone-et-Loire
269
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